36 inch Hickory Frame saw. Eats wood like a Great White eats Seals.

[Todd Trebuna]

Almost finished with my 36 inch Hickory frame saw. Got the blade and hardware from Blackburn tools and they are top notch. Have a little bit of shaping to finish and some finish to apply. Full disclosure, I used a bandsaw to shape the handles. This thing chews through some wood. Super excited to use it.
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[Dean Arthur]

Beautiful saw Todd. The final shaping should be a lot a fun to do.

Please do post how ripping with this saw goes once you get a little experience with it. I do some woodwork at a remote cabin and am looking at making one of these to leave there as a bandsaw surrogate. I've got a 300mm Japanese ZETT rip saw that I thought might work, but it isn't the solution.

The only thing that gave me pause was the sharpening, as I use impulse hardened Japanese saws I just never got into saw sharpening. Would love your thoughts on sharpening it too if you get a chance. Again, great work!

[Jim Matthews]

Proper look to a working shop.

[Mark Rainey]

Once you get some practice perhaps you can resaw some 1/8 inch veneer - that would be a lofty goal! Keep us posted.

[Jason Buresh]

Do you find this awkward to use at all? I have seen some people use them with a lot of precision and they have always piqued my interest, but they look so clumsy.

[chris carter]

I just received the 48" with the 3-1/3 ppi teeth. So far I have it functional, but have yet to shape the handles (hope to do that tomorrow) so, not very comfortable to use. It is a BEAST!!!!! I made two test cuts and although I have no skill and can't guide the saw at all, the speed with which it TEARS THROUGH WOOD is mind-boggling. I knew it would be fast, but not THIS fast.

[Warren Mickley]

I have used a veneer saw for 40 years for resawing and large tenons. When Isaac (Blackburn Tools) made his first Roubo veneer saw he took it to a handtool show and at the beginning of the show he nabbed me and wanted me to try this saw with him. He may have known I had experience.

We sawed 1/8 inch veneers without kerf starters, without kerfing plane, and without any marks on the wood at all. It was a better saw than mine and really enjoyable. With this type of work the kind of partner you have is really important. It is very helpful to have someone who is smooth and steady as Isaac was.;

Pit sawing is like this as well. A jerky partner can wear you out in under ten minutes; you really appreciate a smooth partner.

[Michael J Evans]

For a single person operation, what advantage does this type of saw offer over a low tooth count handsaw? If their both 3-1/2 tpi should be similar performance? Is it just the two handed operation?

[Warren Mickley]

For a single person operation, what advantage does this type of saw offer over a low tooth count handsaw? If their both 3-1/2 tpi should be similar performance? Is it just the two handed operation?

When resawing a board that is six, eight inches and wider, the saw has a tendency to wander in the cut. With a handsaw you can only control this from one side. Or even if you alternate sides the cut can bow in the middle. A frame saw is much more rigid than a hand saw so it does not bow as much, and the frame insures that it is guided from both ends.

[chris carter]

For a single person operation, what advantage does this type of saw offer over a low tooth count handsaw? If their both 3-1/2 tpi should be similar performance? Is it just the two handed operation?

A 48” frame saw is almost double the length of a 26” hand saw, so you get almost double the cut on each pass.

On say, a 10” wide board, the only the first 16” of a hand saw can clear the sawdust. On a 48” saw the first 38” can clear the sawdust – more than double.

On a frame saw you are pushing with both arms, and mostly your body. On a hand saw you are only pushing with one arm, and maybe a little help from the other arm if you two-hand it. It’s considerably more horsepower and considerably less effort.

A frame saw weighs considerably more than a hand saw and that weight is evenly distributed – not just predominantly at the rear like a had saw. That weight really drives the saw into the cut.

[Michael J Evans]

When resawing a board that is six, eight inches and wider, the saw has a tendency to wander in the cut. With a handsaw you can only control this from one side. Or even if you alternate sides the cut can bow in the middle. A frame saw is much more rigid than a hand saw so it does not bow as much, and the frame insures that it is guided from both ends.

A 48” frame saw is almost double the length of a 26” hand saw, so you get almost double the cut on each pass.

On say, a 10” wide board, the only the first 16” of a hand saw can clear the sawdust. On a 48” saw the first 38” can clear the sawdust – more than double.

On a frame saw you are pushing with both arms, and mostly your body. On a hand saw you are only pushing with one arm, and maybe a little help from the other arm if you two-hand it. It’s considerably more horsepower and considerably less effort.

A frame saw weighs considerably more than a hand saw and that weight is evenly distributed – not just predominantly at the rear like a had saw. That weight really drives the saw into the cut.

Interesting
Thanks gentlemen