Is It The Bandsaw, The Wood, The Blade or...?

[Malcolm McLeod]

Nothing welding a few struts on couldn't solve,
Haven't seen it done before, but it would be cheap and easy to do I imagine.
Tom

Might be ugly?

I have read several references at SMC on the desirability of solid wheels. Of course, it adds weight and cost to a saw. I am not a saw designer by any means, but for my money, I think if you're adding weight, I'd want it in the frame first (all design is a compromise).

A BS is tensioned by 2 springs, one inside the other - so to speak: the 'official' tension coil spring, and the 'spring' (action) of the frame. The relative forces that each will support have to be balanced, but no matter what the coil spring is doing, ultimately the frame has to support the tension load of the blade.

...where did I leave that welder?!?

[Julie Moriarty]

It was the blade.

I bought a second Woodmaster CT (the other one is being sharpened) and installed it today. Then I ran 8/4 zebrawood through it, 7" to 9-1/2" wide, and it worked like a charm. The Woodmaster CT is 1" wide with 1.3" TPI.

[John TenEyck]

It was the blade.

I bought a second Woodmaster CT (the other one is being sharpened) and installed it today. Then I ran 8/4 zebrawood through it, 7" to 9-1/2" wide, and it worked like a charm. The Woodmaster CT is 1" wide with 1.3" TPI.

Good to hear Julie. That blade is an amazing blade. Not many teeth so it cuts super fast but the cut quality is still amazingly good. If you can carry away the sawdust fast enough so it doesn't build up inside it should stay clean, too, and that will help maximize performance and life.

John

[Julie Moriarty]

Good to hear Julie. That blade is an amazing blade. Not many teeth so it cuts super fast but the cut quality is still amazingly good. If you can carry away the sawdust fast enough so it doesn't build up inside it should stay clean, too, and that will help maximize performance and life.

John

Thanks, John. I wasn't expecting this to be easy and a couple of times I hit a rather gnarly section in the wood but for the most part the resawing went pretty well. At times the board seemed to glide through almost effortlessly.

My neighbor, who worked with me during the last zebrawood resawing episode, wanted to first rip the wood on the table saw but wanted nothing to do with just taking it to the bandsaw. You could say he had been traumatized. But it was going to be close to get (3) 1/2" thick boards out of each 8/4 board and the table saw, even with a thin kerf blade, was too iffy. Face jointing the boards ate up more than I would have liked.

I am now permanently sold on the Woodmaster CT for resawing larger boards. I won't forget this chapter in resawing again.

[John TenEyck]

Thanks, John. I wasn't expecting this to be easy and a couple of times I hit a rather gnarly section in the wood but for the most part the resawing went pretty well. At times the board seemed to glide through almost effortlessly.

My neighbor, who worked with me during the last zebrawood resawing episode, wanted to first rip the wood on the table saw but wanted nothing to do with just taking it to the bandsaw. You could say he had been traumatized. But it was going to be close to get (3) 1/2" thick boards out of each 8/4 board and the table saw, even with a thin kerf blade, was too iffy. Face jointing the boards ate up more than I would have liked.

I am now permanently sold on the Woodmaster CT for resawing larger boards. I won't forget this chapter in resawing again.

FYI, you can resharpen that blade yourself at low cost and w/o much effort. I posted something a couple of months ago on how.

John