How big is my band saw blade?

[Thomas Colson]

So I got a used Jet JWBS-14OS that I've intermittently used in the year I've had it: getting ready to do some 2-5" resawing. It's has the 6" riser block currently, and a horrible wheel alignment problem (the blade barely rides on the bottom wheel despite a new tensioner and wheel rubber). I posted several months ago about that issue, and it seems the only solution is to shim the lower wheel using shaft shims. I've been looking at the shim solution, but I'm also frustrated with the 5 TPI 1/2 blade it came with.

• With the 6" riser, I measure (many times), 105" length on the blades for this machine. That doesn't sound right. For some reason, in my brain, this model saw with the riser is 110". I don't know how that got planted in my mind.....how I measured is I cut the 3/4" blade that came with (which will never get used, this saw cannot push a 3/4 blade!) and laid it out on my workbench.
• Without the riser, https://www.woodmagazine.com/review/...4os-14-bandsaw calls for 93 1/2. That sound right?

There is no possible scenario, ever, in my future, where I will be resawing anything more than 6" thick. Thinking of getting rid of that riser and getting stock length blades from TW and see where that gets me on this lower wheel issue. But just for giggles, I might get a 1/2" 3 TPI blade for the riser length from TW and see what it does.

WHere am I going with this: I have two needs for resawing: I got a pile of exotic hardwoods that I need to soon do something with (taking up space, no, I won't send it to you!) that only make sense if I resaw, and my firewood guy brings me the most interesting spalted maple sometimes, or beautifully figured oak, which I S4S. I actually have a pretty large collection of this stuff, enough to do a few nightstands or something, but only if I can resaw it. I'm not to comfortable resawing 14-20" long pieces on the table saw, a bit out of my safety comfort zone.

[Bill Dufour]

The math is simple, a 6" riser adds 12" to blade length.
If your 93.5" is correct then 93.5+ 12 = 105.5"
Bill D

[Thomas Colson]

Thanks, that's a great answer!

[John TenEyck]

The math is simple, a 6" riser adds 12" to blade length.
If your 93.5" is correct then 93.5+ 12 = 105.5"
Bill D

The math is simple but the length is not. I have a 14" Delta. It takes a 93.5" blade. I put a 6" riser on it. It takes a 105" blade, not a 105.5" one. Why? I have no clue, but that's what it is. Perhaps both would fit fine, but the length specified for that saw with the riser is 105".

John

[Doug Garson]

I also have a 14" Delta/Rockwell with riser and use a 105" blade (my previous 14" clone was the same) I'm sure there is more than enough thread in the tensioner to accommodate the extra 1/2" blade length which would only require 1/4" of wheel movement.

[Richard Coers]

The usual issue with poor tracking on a 14" bandsaw is a bent tracking hinge plate on the top wheel. These can also be cracked causing even worse conditions. This pot metal hinge has been a known issue for decades as people tend to over tension wide blades with the intention of making these saws preform work they were never designed to do.

[Mike Kees]

105. When you add the riser block to these saws it effectively adds another "joint" . I would pull the table off and make sure that your wheels are co-planer. By this I mean not twisted as well as sitting directly over top of each other. Shim if you have to. The great thing about this process is you will only ever have to do it once.

[Steve Jenkins]

Is it possible to loosen the riser block and twist the top of the saw slightly. It won’t take much to correct the tracking

[John K Jordan]

I have an Delta 14" with riser block. It takes a 105" blade. I used a 1/2" 3tpi and cut a boatload of green wood into turning blanks with it.

Removing the riser and going with shorter blades can be cheaper. The 142" blade for my 18" bandsaw costs more.
If reverting to the non-riser, you'll have to have the other parts that were on the original saw (guide posts, guard, can't remember what else) or perhaps modify what's there now.

Don't know whether we discussed this in the thread you mentioned, but I agree that a bent tensioning bracket can cause a big problem tightening the blade. If the problem is the blade is about to run off the bottom wheel when centered on the top, then yes, making the wheels coplanar with shims will fix it. That's what I had to do with my Delta. After that, a new tensioner bracket, and proper tensioning the saw cut much better.

JKJ

[Ed Aumiller]

I had an Enlon 16" bandsaw that I put a 6" riser block on it...
Prior to riser block, the saw tracked ok... blade in center of both wheels...
After riser block added, tracking was terrible..

I had to do what Steve did... loosened bolts and twisted it slightly, tracking improved a lot.. but not quite enough..

Drilled mounting holes a little bit to where I could twist it a bit more... Tracking was right on...

Remove your table, get a GOOD straight edge and align your wheels and problem should go away,..

Blade length should be 105"

[Randy Heinemann]

If your saw is capable of using a 6" riser wouldn't Jet have specs on the blade length or, if you you look online, Jet may have the manual for it to download. With regard to the blade tracking . . . Is it possible that the blade is the problem? Sorry if you've been down this road already. Also, I have a Rikon bandsaw. I took it apart to remove the wheels to install new tires and the wheel alignment mechanism somehow slipped out of place. After that I couldn't get the blade to stay on until I contacted Rikon for some technical support. Once I got the parts back together properly, the alignment problem disappeared.

[John Stankus]

I have a JWBS-14CS (the closed stand version of what you have). 105" blade with the riser block.

John

[lowell holmes]

I have the same saw as John and my blades are 105" with the riser block.

[Zachary Hoyt]

I have an 18" Jet and have bought and used 132" and 133" blades with no problems, depending what was cheaper on eBay at the time.

[Curt Harms]

Easy way to check wheel alignment. I used a piece of 1/4" plywood with one STRAIGHT edge. It was a little longer than the distance from the top of the top wheel to the bottom of the bottom wheel. I cut the straight edge into a sort of C shape so it would fit over the table and case and rest against the wheels. When the top and bottom of each wheel touch at the same time the wheels are coplanar. Different saws have different methods to adjust the bottom wheel. I had a old Grizzly sheet metal band saw and getting the wheels coplanar made a big difference.