Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 31 to 43 of 43

Thread: Interior door construction

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    1,544
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Calhoon View Post
    Attachment 452412
    here is the picture, couldn’t insert it in the other post for some reason
    How thick of a face veneer do you typically use? I’m doing some doors that are barn door arrangement but not the rustic style. I think I almost got the veneer too thin on the stave cores. I’m doing loose tenons, wish I had done a stub tendon instead. Panels will be solid, held in with applied moldings.

    The doors are on our master bath, its a big room so moisture not a huge issue. Two doors to cover opening, 100" x 60". They slide apart in the middle, couldn't do one door due to obstructions. Here is a fit-up of one half. Need to do mortises and tennons but procrastinating as I don't want to mess it up.

    IMG_0447.jpg
    Last edited by Michael W. Clark; 02-17-2021 at 12:24 AM.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Northern Michigan
    Posts
    4,973
    Quote Originally Posted by David Kumm View Post
    Good to hear from you Larry, still got the big shaper?

    I'm tempted to try the TS at least for the wide rails on a 6 panel door. Stiles stay pretty stable unless you fit the door tight in the summer which is a different issue. Would anyone estimate the extra work vs the cost of solid wood assuming non exotic stuff like Cherry, maple, walnut etc. Dave

    Hi David K. Yes I still have the beast, love the thing. Still, getting old and thinking of getting one with at least some readouts. Also was wondering if the sliding table add on that SCMI sells in Europe is available here, gave up on finding a factory Unitronix tenoning table. The double spindle thing is really handy, but really at 7'6" long it is just two shapers with one top.Was about to buy a new SCM but got a divorce instead. Bought her out of my house that I built and paid for. Stuff happens....

    Dave Z. Yes. I called West System and told them what I wanted to do and that is what they recommended.

    I have built a few exterior doors with a baltic birch or appleply core through the whole door with one sided wood faces applied to both sides in a bed of West System. Very heavy, thick but extremely durable. I do a West soak on the face side with 207 hardener before a base coat of automotive clear flexible adhesion promoting primer followed by an automotive clearcoat. No failures in 35 years of Northern Michigan exposure. Expensive process, but for those times when money is no object.....

    I love reading all you guys different solutions................

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    New York, NY
    Posts
    2,203
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Calhoon View Post
    Very true in historical work Mel. Years ago we did a new house that was a exact shaker reproduction. The architect was associated with one of the Shaker villages. The interior doors were all called out at 1 1/8”. And exterior at 1 1/2”.
    What sort of period-consistent hardware works with an 1-1/8" passage door? Even those black rim latches from Acorn require at least 1-3/8". Was this also a custom thing?

  4. #34
    for shop-sawn veneer, i target 0.050" thick.




    Quote Originally Posted by Michael W. Clark View Post
    How thick of a face veneer do you typically use? I’m doing some doors that are barn door arrangement but not the rustic style. I think I almost got the veneer too thin on the stave cores. I’m doing loose tenons, wish I had done a stub tendon instead. Panels will be solid, held in with applied moldings.

    The doors are on our master bath, its a big room so moisture not a huge issue. Two doors to cover opening, 100" x 60". They slide apart in the middle, couldn't do one door due to obstructions. Here is a fit-up of one half. Need to do mortises and tennons but procrastinating as I don't want to mess it up.

    IMG_0447.jpg

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Ouray Colorado
    Posts
    1,392
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Kelly View Post
    What sort of period-consistent hardware works with an 1-1/8" passage door? Even those black rim latches from Acorn require at least 1-3/8". Was this also a custom thing?
    That job was more than 25 years ago. If I remember the interiors were forged thumb latches and mortise locks on the exterior. No tubular latches. Ball and Ball maybe. What I remember most from that job was the doors had a small bead detail on the sticking. Times were lean then and I decided to apply the bead instead of having custom cutters made. Huge mistake, what a tedious job applying hard maple beads to both sides of the doors!

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Ouray Colorado
    Posts
    1,392
    Quote Originally Posted by Michael W. Clark View Post
    How thick of a face veneer do you typically use? I’m doing some doors that are barn door arrangement but not the rustic style. I think I almost got the veneer too thin on the stave cores. I’m doing loose tenons, wish I had done a stub tendon instead. Panels will be solid, held in with applied moldings.
    Being in the custom door business we end up with many different constructions that require creative solutions on making stiles.
    like I mentioned, solid is my choice when proper materials are available. Typically 1 3/4 interior doors with a stave core get 3mm skins. The skin edge usually disappears with edge easing. Sometimes on thick wallet jobs the edges are mitered into the skins. (Much labor to do this.) with knotty white oak and cherry where the material is only available in 4/4 sometimes we do a 3 layer stile with thick faces and a thin core and mitered outside edges. This knotty material can be problematic doing 3 mm skins.

    I rarely do exterior doors with skins because I dislike glue joints to the weather. If I do use skins in this application they are thick 7 to 8mm.
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 02-17-2021 at 12:15 PM. Reason: fixed quote tagging

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,647
    As you can see by the prior responses, there is no hard and fast rule for veneer thickness, especially for interior doors. That said, to stand up to hard use I wouldn't go less than 1/16", and I see no reason to go thicker than 1/8". Sometimes you have to adjust the thickness of the veneer if the core comes out a little thinner than your target. So if my core came out at 1-3/16 instead of the 1-1/4" target I would make the veneers 3/32" thick. Why would the cores come out thin? Well, sometimes there is a bit of bow in them after glue up and by the time you joint and plane them flat they are a little under target. So you can either start over and make new ones or adjust the thickness of the veneer and use them. I've chosen the latter so far w/o problems.

    John

  8. #38
    And there is a good reason for the veneer to not go over 1/8”....because it wouldn’t be a veneer anymore ,It would be a “facing”.
    So anytime something is impossible....Don’t Do It !!

  9. #39
    we really need a "Like" button on SMC.

  10. #40
    this weekend i find myself making a 1 3/4" service door in cherry. here's a shot of the stiles, ready for veneering. i know that others (with much more experience and wisdom than i have) have had issues with timberstrand, but thus far, and in lieu of other good available core options, it serves me well.

    F4E92BB6-5786-4D5B-A168-655BA88A45B7_1_105_c.jpg

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,647
    I built a couple of exterior doors with LVL cores. I think it's fine as long as the stiles aren't too wide nor the veneer too thick. As I mentioned earlier, I had some 1/4" white oak veneer split on a 13" wide bottom rail that had an LVL core. Since that experience, I've gone back to wood stave core construction. But for stiles I think it's fine.

    John

  12. #42
    here's a shot of the door end joint:

    962C18A4-E7FC-44C6-B847-EE05103F1D8D_1_105_c.jpeg

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,647
    That looks mighty fine, David.

    John

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •