New Workshop Setup

[Richard Wolfgang]

Hello all. I'm new to the site here and have been browsing the forums looking for ideas. I'm in
the process of building a new basement workshop. Attached is the current plan. The orange walls
with hatching are existing CMU walls. The green walls are existing load bearing walls. The blue
walls are new walls which I recently completed the framing. Red is my best guess shop layout. I was
thinking of keeping the upper side of the shop devoted to cutting type tools and to try to keep
the majority of dust on that side of the shop. The bottom side would be devoted to assembly. I've
already purchased some used 1/2" horse stall rubber matting to place on the existing concrete floor. I'm
undecided on:


Number of circuits. Will need both 110 and 220. Was thinking of placing both around the entire perimeter
of the entire shop. Alternating every other one. Have one dedicated 220v circuit for tablesaw dropping down from
above.


Ceiling system. Sound proofing is fairly important as well as not limiting access to existing
MEP systems in floor joists above. Kitchen and laundry will be above the shop. Leaning towards an accoustic
type drop ceiling panel. Maybe add some additional rock wool insulation above it.


Dust collection and layout. Currently have a single stage JDS system with a bag filter but purchased
the Oneida super dust deputy to convert to 2 stage. I don't have any windows or fans to the house exterior. Is this
a problem?

[Frank Pratt]

If you go with a t-bar ceiling grid, then cut up some 5/8" drywall to use as tiles. They will block sound much better than acoustic tiles will. Acoustic tiles will reduce reflected sound in your shop, making things a little quieter in there, but won't block much sound from getting out.

[Brian Tymchak]

I like to have the DC on its own circuit as it will likely be on while other tools are in use. Not sure if you were planning that way. More circuits are better than less if the budget allows. I also would prefer having lighting on its own circuit and use daylight LEDs. If you are older, 60 ish, you will need more light than a younger person. Love the idea of rock wool in ceiling. HVAC ducts conduct sound, so any insulation around those will help.

I currently have my shop in a finished basement where the previous owner put all outlets and all lights on a single circuit. Can't start a router without dimming the lights. Putting final touches on plans to add partitions and tear down/ replace my finished ceiling to run new electrical, lighting, and insulation.

Edit: Finishing in the basement is one of my biggest issues. If you plan to only use waterborne finishes, then you are OK, but if you want to use a solvent based finish things get more complicated. I have no choice but to take my projects to the garage to use an oil like I often prefer.

[Brian Tymchak]

If you go with a t-bar ceiling grid, then cut up some 5/8" drywall to use as tiles. They will block sound much better than acoustic tiles will. Acoustic tiles will reduce reflected sound in your shop, making things a little quieter in there, but won't block much sound from getting out.

Interesting idea.

[Bruce King]

I agree with the DC on its own circuit. Also need an overhead air cleaner, 120v on its own circuit or share with something like a small fridge or LED light circuit.

[Richard Wolfgang]

Frank, I love the drywall panel idea on the ceiling. It'll also be quite a bit cheaper than traditional drop ceiling panels. Definitely will consider this.

Brian, Thanks for the tips. Hadn't considered the HVAC ducts. I will need to address that.

Bruce, I do have an overhead air cleaner, but hadn't thought about wiring yet. Appreciate the input.

[Alan Lightstone]

I've never regretted having too many outlets. Come to think of it, I've never had too many outlets.

I worked for a while with pencil and paper finding the places for my stationary equipment, then had outlets placed for them. But many are 3-phase, so the location of them mattered.

My $0.02 is that you can't have too much lighting (with high quality, high CRI LED bulbs, 4100K in my case), and you can't have enough soundproofing. Especially with your DC.

I put double 5/8" drywall with Green Glue and Rockwool insulation on the outside walls, so as not to annoy my neighbors (or SWMBO). I would think this could be done on the ceiling and would provide great soundproofing. But definitely not cheap.

[Charlie Jones]

Consider running surface wires and outlets. They can be moved if needed. I wish I had done that. If you can put the dust collector outside the shop or in a closet. It will help a lot with the noise.

[Jim Becker]

Consider running surface wires and outlets. They can be moved if needed. I wish I had done that. If you can put the dust collector outside the shop or in a closet. It will help a lot with the noise.

I agree with this. Other than a few "understandably permanent" circuits for lighting and basic utility power outlets, I'll always use surface mount for machine circuits and other purposes that conceivably could need to be moved (or removed) over time. My current shop is partially that way for more recent changes. My next shop will follow the lessons learned. I may even use raceway for clean and easy access.

[Robert D Evans]

I also have a basement workshop. I put 1/2" sheetrock on the walls with screws. No finishing. Over the years, I can't count the number of times I needed to run another electric circuit or make a change to the wiring. I just have to take the screws out of the sheetrock and open up the wall. Most of my outlets are 4 feet from the floor. Much easier to plug things in.

Dust is the biggest challenge in a basement workshop. Make the effort to contain it at the source as much as possible. Your wife and lungs will thank you.

[Alex Zeller]

I see a dedicated space for a large jointer but not one for a planer. Do you plan on having one or do you have a combo machine? If you don't have one I would plan for space for one unless you are sure you'll never add one.

[Richard Wolfgang]

Great tips guys! Really appreciate it.

Alex - I do have a small Dewalt DW734 which is currently on a mobile platform. Will most likely upgrade in the future.

[Rick Potter]

About the electric outlets. I have them as you mention, but I also hopscotched them. I put every other one on a different circuit. This way, if you have two machines next to each other, you can run them off two different circuits.

One idea I like, but didn't use, was to put all plugs at the same level, and put the firestops both above and below the plugs, all along the wall. Install the drywall or other covering up to the lower stop, and from the upper one to the ceiling. This gives you a race you can cover with a 8-12" cover all down the wall. It allows you to get to the electrical and change things if called for.

[Jim Becker]

About the electric outlets. I have them as you mention, but I also hopscotched them. I put every other one on a different circuit. This way, if you have two machines next to each other, you can run them off two different circuits.

I agree with this method. I was just mentally considering the electrical needs of a potential future shop and for accommodating 120v devices, like benchtops, charging and extractors, I'd daisy chain two 120v circuits in the same, alternating way for convenience. My current shop wasn't built that way, so occasionally, I'm probably pushing the limits for the 120v stuff.

[Rick Potter]

I daisy chained the 240V outlets also Jim. I went crazy and ended up with over 30 breakers in my sub panel, including two 30A 240's for the big draws. With the 240's, I put a double outlet box for most along the walls, with two side by side outlets on different circuits.

This way, if I leave the saw running to joint an edge it's no problem.