Caster wheel on table saw rip fence

[Eric Arnsdorff]

Has anyone tried this and if so, does it work well?
I’m thinking of giving it a try.
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[Rod Sheridan]

My saw came from the factory with a wheel on the fence, works fine..........Rod.

[Jim Becker]

Seems like a reasonable thing if you are not using that rear angle iron to fasten anything to the saw (like an outfeed table) and if it's absolutely parallel to the saw's top. Just be sure you are really careful with nailing the thickness of the shim between the caster and the fence as well as making sure the caster rolls parallel to the front fence rail. The caster shouldn't lift the back of the fence more than a "proverbial hair"......no more than with the OEM slip pad on the bottom of the fence at the back.

[glenn bradley]

I did that for awhile. It works. I did not notice enough improvement over the plastic pad riding the table top and the caster makes it a little awkward to remove the fence. One time when it snagged I got tired of it and removed it. Like I said, not real improvement in fence movement. If your Bies or Bies-colne is not sliding easily, I would recommend that you fix that issue versus using the wheel to override it. If you want the caster, go ahead. It didn't change much but, looked pretty cool ;-)

[Frank Pratt]

I've pondered a way to install a small caster inside the end of the fence tube that would protrude through a hole, cut where the glide pad currently is. I can't see a down side to doing that, but all it really does is solve a problem that doesn't exist. So I just use it as is & it's fine that way.

[Matt Day]

Frank,
Might have better luck with a bearing instead of a caster. Could make a plug for the end of the fence and attach the bearing. I might just do that now that I think about it! Lol

[Marc Fenneuff]

I took a page from the Neanderthal forum and scribbled some parrafin wax along the path of the glide pad on my fence. Works beautifully.

[Eric Arnsdorff]

My fence is a Biesemeyer (Delta Unisaw) although there are a number of fences with the same design including the very popular SawStops.
I've added the Jess-Em stock guides with the Magswitches. That alone adds some to the frictional force to move it. I have replaced the glides on the fence (with OEM glides).
I've also found it has started leaving horizontal marks. I'm not sure exactly what has caused that. Possibly, some fine sanding grit that became embedded into the glides (or other such things). It's not enough to even feel so it hasn't hurt anything other than causing me to worry every time I see it.
It does seem prudent to improve this assuming it is as simple and cheap as it appears to be.

I did buy a cheap caster today just to see. I haven't attached it but propped it under the fence and it definitely made it much easier to slide.

I don't have anything attached to the angle iron on the rear of the saw but do intent to do this. I'm thinking I'll just hot glue this on to see how it works and if it works well enough I'll modify it to allow for attachment of an outfeed table. Possibly, that just means I tap the holes and support it with a wheel or cam follower riding where the holes aren't.

Matt - I like the idea of using a bearing that could even ride on the table rather than the rear fence angle which would leave it available for attaching an outfeed table.

Frank it would seem plausible to make a "plug" that would go in the tube with a bearing (or cam follower) exposed where the pad is currently.

I agree Jim that it is critical to make sure the orientation is parallel to the fence travel. Having it want to push back horizontally would easily defeat any reduction in the friction.

Marc - using parafin wax seems almost too easy. I'll certainly give that a try as well. It's quicker than me responding to this post and if it works then problem solved.

@Rod - I'd love to see a pic of your setup if you have one. Who makes the fence that comes with the roller?

[Warren Lake]

I go with wax and have parafin around the shop. On the Bes the slide things fell off 20 years ago and just use it without. Its not even straight. SCM fence does have a wheel that rides on the table saw surface. Its a number of steps better quality wise

[Lee Schierer]

Has anyone tried this and if so, does it work well?
I’m thinking of giving it a try.
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The problem I see would be the accumulation of saw dust on the angle would eventually cause the will not to roll well.

As others have suggested, wax your table top with Johnson Paste wax and it will help your fence to slide as well as your work pieces.

[Eric Arnsdorff]

The problem I see would be the accumulation of saw dust on the angle would eventually cause the will not to roll well.

As others have suggested, wax your table top with Johnson Paste wax and it will help your fence to slide as well as your work pieces.

Lee - I've used Johnson's Paste Wax for over 25 years on my tops. It works well for its intended use but it doesn't resolve this issue.

[Bill Dufour]

My Unifence needed a new glide pad. I made it from a scrap of plastic 2x6 deckboard. I made it about the size of a bushiness card so it easily straddles the miter slot. I have waxed it one rime before installing never again since the plastic seems slick enough. I prefer it up top where i can see it and clear any dust in the way. If it was hidden in the back out of sight dust and splinters may build up and lift the fence without me knowing.
Bil lD

[Eric Arnsdorff]

I’ve hot glued a cheap caster on the fence.
It works well. I did use some brass shim material I have to get it the right height.
It seems to be a good solution so far.
I’ll give it a little time to see. If it has no issues, I will eventually replace it with a design that I can mount an out feed table on as well.

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