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Thread: can wood dry out too much over time?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Houston, TX
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    437

    can wood dry out too much over time?

    I have a bunch of 2x8 that I took out of a heavy duty shelf that made like 8 years ago. well one of the boards had a about an 8" crack on one end so I cut that part off with the miter saw then ran it through the planer. Anyways I don't know if it was that same board or not, but when I took it out of the planer and placed it off to the side, the entire 48" board split right in half length wise almost a straight line all the way down the middle. So what's up with that? I dont want that to happen again when I run these boards through the table saw. I was just trying to make a little table out of some wood I had laying around with no use for.

  2. #2
    Are we talking about construction material? If so, that's to be expected. It's made from the least desirable lumber.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    South Coastal Massachusetts
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    JM is onto an important point.

    Construction grade lumber (mostly Pine in North America) grows fast and is sawn for greatest yield.
    It's not ideal for furniture.


    It sounds like you had a board that had a "shake" that failed over the years.

    https://blog.spib.org/shakes-checks-...ension-lumber/

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    437
    Yeah it's yellow pine. I'm going to burn it with a torch to give it a neat look, then seal it with some varnish.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    2,652
    Look on each end of the board and see if it has the pith of the tree in it. That's usually a problem with splitting. Hard to find one without it at the big box stores.

  6. #6
    I don't know about least desirable; I made a lot of furniture in my poorer days from framing lumber and #2 and #3 The main issue is that it typically is only dried to 19% moisture content. That is fine if you are building a house, and cracks here and there don't matter, but they do stick out like a sore thumb on furniture. In most places of the US, wood is closer to 10% at ambient temp and humidity.

    Species likely also matters. For whatever reason, around here most framing lumber comes from the Northwest; I suspect it has to do with how the trains route. We tend to get Sitka and Hem-Fir. The Hem-Fer is dreadful to use for anything except framing, but the Sitka, after it dries, isn't too bad. Fast grown Southern Pine doesn't seem very appealing though, I could see having problems with that.
    Last edited by Andrew Seemann; 02-14-2021 at 11:02 AM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Peoria, IL
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    4,445
    To answer your question in the title, No, wood can't dry out too much. Hardwood lumber is kiln dried to 6-8%, construction softwood lumber is kiln dried to 19%. Both will reach an equilibrium moisture level sitting around based on the climate in your area. An average equilibrium moisture level is assumed to be around 12%. If it's cracking now, the fire you intend to scorch it with will make that worse.

  8. #8
    I agree that construction lumber is wetter and rarely clear so it is less desirable for furniture but I've used it many times and generally been OK with the result. In my house right now I have a queen sized bed and a bunk bed made of construction lumber. The base of the dining table I just finished is also construction lumber. The bedroom with the queen sized bed of construction lumber has a dresser built mainly of shelving boards. Any wood with knots is not going to be as stable as straight grained clear pieces. Any wood that will dry out as you make the piece is more likely to move. Other than that, it is an appearance thing. If the drawbacks can be managed and the appearance fits the project, I proceed.

    I would also note, however, that on a dollar per board foot basis, especially if you cut out knots, you may get cheaper material buying hardwood. I wouldn't conclude it's cheapest without looking, in other words. I forget exactly what I paid for the 16 foot 2x12 I used in my dining room table but I think it equates to more than $2/bd ft. I only paid about $3.50 for cherry for the top. I might have been able to get hardwood of a "lesser" species for a similar cost as the 2x12. I had already decided to use construction lumber dyed with black ink for the base so I did not look. Cost was not the basis of the decision.

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