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Thread: Outer dado blade for splines

  1. #1

    Outer dado blade for splines

    Hello everyone, thank you for allowing me into the forum.

    I am pretty new to woodworking and want to make picture frames with splines in them. I purchased a ripping blade with flat top blades but am wondering if the money is better invested in a dado stack. I would think that since flat bottoms are important for dado's that the blades would have flat tops. I would like to just use one of the outer blades for my splines.

    Is this possible?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Peoria, IL
    Posts
    4,528
    Usually the outer dado blade is ground with all the teeth ground at an angle towards the outside. If you use it for a spline groove, there will be a small angle that the spline will not fill. It's up to you if that is acceptable.

  3. #3
    For splines I would rather use the rip blade to get the flattest bottom for a picture frame. My Freud dado set has angled part on the outside teeth as Richard stated. Welcome to the Creek!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Winterville, NC (eastern NC)
    Posts
    2,366
    Flat top ripping blade is the way to go. I have a full-kerf ripping blade that cuts a flat bottom groove all day long. 1/8" kerf.

  5. #5
    Thanks everyone. I bought the Freud 10" x 24T heavy duty ripping blade. Can't wait to test it out tomorrow after hearing your advice!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Central North Carolina
    Posts
    1,830
    If you want wider, consider the Freud SBOX8 blade set. It will give you nice flat bottomed cuts in 1/4 or 3/8" widths. This blade set has two blades with offset teeth. Put them together with the writing facing out and you get one width. Put them together with the writing facing toward each other and you get the other width. The offset teeth of one blade fit into the gullets of the other blade when doing the 1/4" cut. There are other similar blade sets available like this set. I just happen to have the Freud set. I believe that they are all the same design. This blade set was designed to cut box joints, but could fill your need, if you want spline slots wider that what your new blade will cut. The attached photo shows how nice these blades cut. This was done with the 3/8" arrangement of the blade set.

    Charley
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Waterford, PA
    Posts
    1,239
    I'll second the Freud Box Joint set. I have a second, small Table Saw dedicated to making Box Joints with this blade set mounted in it. It does a suburb job.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    On the Continental Divide somewhere in Montana
    Posts
    102
    Quote Originally Posted by Lisa Starr View Post
    It does a suburb job.
    As opposed to a big city or country job...

    Sorry - couldn't resist.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Waterford, PA
    Posts
    1,239
    Thanks Dave... that will teach me not to proof read my posts.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,892
    I will suggest that an ATB+R is the way to go. You want the shearing action of the ATB (Alternate Top Bevel) for clean edges here and the R (raker) for a perfectly flat bottom. A dedicated ripping blade may or may not give you the cleanest cut for your particular application.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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