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Thread: Bandsaw cut

  1. #1
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    Bandsaw cut

    Got a 3/4 inch Resaw King for my Rikon 10-326. Was cutting a lot of 1/8 inch laminations. Lenox 1/2 inch 3TPI was getting the job done, but wanted to try out Resaw King. Cranked up tension to max and cut was significantly better, although still needed to use planer to smooth face of board afterwards. The problem was that when I began cut the blade would shift perhaps 1/32 of an inch and then follow a perfect straight line the rest of the cut. I thought my blade guide bearings were not the exact same distance from the blade so I adjusted them both to where they were barely touching and rotating a bit when turning the wheels by hand. I thought my bottom guides were properly adjusted also. Maybe I could do better with adjusting the guides. Here is a picture of the cut. bandsaw cut.jpg Any thoughts on the problem? Thanks

  2. #2
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    I have the 10-325 and have fits getting a 1/2" blade tensioned enough. I can't imagine it being possible to get a 3/4" blade to tension on that machine.
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

  3. #3
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    One comment, the guides should not touch the blade when cutting in a straight line, if they do something is wrong. Have you adjusted your saw to eliminate or compensate for drift?

  4. #4
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    Things to try which might help:

    1. Adjust tracking so that the gullets are as close to the center of the wheel as possible with the rear of the blade contacting the wheel. Not much wiggle room with a 3/4" blade though.

    2. Steady, even feed pressure is ideal, sometimes maybe a bit more aggressive pushing.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Tymchak View Post
    I have the 10-325 and have fits getting a 1/2" blade tensioned enough. I can't imagine it being possible to get a 3/4" blade to tension on that machine.
    This is a real concern Brian. Although Laguna markets the blade for a 14inch bandsaw. And Van Huskey has recommended this blade for a steel spine 14inch bandsaw blade and I have seen some members having great success with it. The cut was significantly better than my Lenox. It just is that little shift when starting the cut, the blade moved away from the fence and then tracks perfectly.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Garson View Post
    One comment, the guides should not touch the blade when cutting in a straight line, if they do something is wrong. Have you adjusted your saw to eliminate or compensate for drift?
    Perhaps Doug. But I have seen on occasion a resaw expert say get your roller bearings as close to the blade as possible, so that when turning the wheel manually they occasionally kiss the blade. I have adjusted my bandsaw with table square to blade in both planes and have no drift with new Resaw King blade.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy Fox View Post
    Things to try which might help:

    1. Adjust tracking so that the gullets are as close to the center of the wheel as possible with the rear of the blade contacting the wheel. Not much wiggle room with a 3/4" blade though.

    2. Steady, even feed pressure is ideal, sometimes maybe a bit more aggressive pushing.
    Thanks Andy, I will keep trying.

  8. #8
    Could it be your fence alignment? You may try resawing with a point fence to see if that cures it.

    Next please confirm that you are feeding at a slow enough rate.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    Could it be your fence alignment? You may try resawing with a point fence to see if that cures it.

    Next please confirm that you are feeding at a slow enough rate.
    I have been trying to start my feed really slow, I will look at your other suggestions.


    guide post.jpg

    My guide post holding my roller bearings seems a little to the right of the blade axis - but adjusting the rollers should take care of this. I don't know if this has anything to do with the problem?

  10. #10
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    A blade that initially pulls then cuts straight suggests either the blade isn't tracking parallel with the miter slot or the fence isn't aligned correctly. If you use a featherboard to hold the board against the fence, however, it likely will cut straight and true, just a little inefficiently and with a finish less perfect than it could be.

    As long as you don't change its height, it doesn't matter if the upper guide is out of alignment as long as the bearings sit an equal amount from both sides of the blade. FWIW, guides make little difference in whether the blade cuts straight. It's all about alignment and tension. If you have to rely on the guides to keep the blade cutting straight something else is wrong.

    John

  11. #11
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    When I first got the resaw king 3/4" blade I forgot to lower the upper guides and had a similar thing happen. But if I lower the post so the work has just enough clearance, I have no problems with that blade, which I use all the time for great results. Very curious - I'll be watching this thread for more info. Sorry I can't help - got nothin.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    Could it be your fence alignment? You may try resawing with a point fence to see if that cures it.

    Next please confirm that you are feeding at a slow enough rate.
    Fence alignment would be my bet, as well.
    (This looks like what I get if my fence is not aligned)

    I'd recommend keeping the tension high, backing off your blade guides, and doing a straight rip with low feed pressure to get your cut tracking reference, and then aligning your fence to that. (you can then get your guides tuned as desired)

    Matt


    Matt

  13. #13
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    Thanks for the good information! I will focus on the fence alignment.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Rainey View Post
    This is a real concern Brian. Although Laguna markets the blade for a 14inch bandsaw. And Van Huskey has recommended this blade for a steel spine 14inch bandsaw blade and I have seen some members having great success with it. The cut was significantly better than my Lenox. It just is that little shift when starting the cut, the blade moved away from the fence and then tracks perfectly.
    Hmm. Since you mention others doing this, I rechecked specs on my 10-325 and sure enough they indicate the saw should handle a 3/4" blade. I do have a hard time getting the tension cranked up on a 1/2" blade so I think maybe I need to inspect my saw for a problem.
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Tymchak View Post
    Hmm. Since you mention others doing this, I rechecked specs on my 10-325 and sure enough they indicate the saw should handle a 3/4" blade. I do have a hard time getting the tension cranked up on a 1/2" blade so I think maybe I need to inspect my saw for a problem.
    I think the Rikon 10-326 can handle a 3/4 inch blade, but I think it should be thin. I did resaw with a Lenox 2TPI 3/4 inch blade but it was .032 inches and it got the job done but it was sort of ugly - weird sounds and a blade that wavered. My roller bearings harnessed it and with tension up I was able to get my 1/8 laminations but the cut was very rough. I was waiting for my 1/2 Lenox blades to arrive and got impatient and used the 3/4 inch Lenox.

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