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Thread: Bandsaw cut

  1. #16
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    Apr 2017
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    Got another Resaw King 3/4 inch. Laguna gave me a new one. Excellent customer service. Needed to do some heavy resawing. Put it on - blade length was a bit too long so I had to adjust my Rikon to raise the upper wheel which helped. Cranked up tension. Miter slot and fence square to blade, blade at 90 degrees to table. Guides just kissing blade at times. Pretty good cuts, but with initial shifting of blade again exactly as in first pic. Cut 56 laminates 30 inches long and 6 inches wide. Near end of work the blade began to wander more. Checked blade for drift and it did have a few degrees drift. Corrected fence for drift but cut got worse. Enough of this. I just can't figure out how to best utilize the RK on my Rikon 10-326. I am just guessing, but the band at 3/4 inch just seems too wide for my wheels - if it is centered on the top, it is off center on the bottom. I tossed on a new Lennox Flexback 1/2 inch 3TPI and was easily cutting 50 inch laminates 5 inches wide and 1/8 inch thick. The half inch blade was easy to center on the top wheel and naturally centered on the bottom. Probably the end of my adventures with a 3/4 inch blade.

  2. #17
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    Sep 2008
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    N. Idaho
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    Bummer to hear Mark. I have a 18" saw and use a carbide 1" blade (Ag B-18 and lenox trimaster(?)). Here's my set up procedure:

    -aligning the teeth to overhang the front of the top wheel when tensioned
    -setting the guides to 'kiss' both top and bottom (as you mentioned)
    -striking a line parallel to the edge of a piece of 2' or 3' piece of scrap
    -freehand cutting to the line 1/2 way through the scrap with the blade fully tensioned
    -aligning the fence to the edge of the board

    When changing blades, this often results in the fence moving a couple degrees. I have never checked alignment to the miter slot. Not sure if any of that is different than what you've been trying.

    Looking forward to seeing the fruits of your efforts.

    Best,
    Chris

    "You can observe a lot just by watching."
    --Yogi Berra

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Charles View Post
    Bummer to hear Mark. I have a 18" saw and use a carbide 1" blade (Ag B-18 and lenox trimaster(?)). Here's my set up procedure:

    -aligning the teeth to overhang the front of the top wheel when tensioned
    -setting the guides to 'kiss' both top and bottom (as you mentioned)
    -striking a line parallel to the edge of a piece of 2' or 3' piece of scrap
    -freehand cutting to the line 1/2 way through the scrap with the blade fully tensioned
    -aligning the fence to the edge of the board

    When changing blades, this often results in the fence moving a couple degrees. I have never checked alignment to the miter slot. Not sure if any of that is different than what you've been trying.

    Looking forward to seeing the fruits of your efforts.

    Best,
    Chris

    Thanks for the advice Chris.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    E TN, near Knoxville
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    10,697
    Assuming the blade is sharp, my experience with that type of behavior is the tension is not high enough. I didn't read all the posts - did you tension with a tension meter? If not, perhaps you could borrow one. I bought one years ago and found that with proper tension the indicator on bandsaws is almost always way off. Some manufacturers claim their saws will work with a blade size that can't realistically be tensioned with that saw. I tension a 1/2" 3tpi blade the indicator on my 18" Rikon 10-345 is pointing almost to the 1" mark.

    I bought a Starrett tension gauge but Iturra Design sells one that is a lot cheaper.

    I set the blade guides as recommended so they are very close but not touching the blade.

    JKJ


    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Rainey View Post
    Got a 3/4 inch Resaw King for my Rikon 10-326. Was cutting a lot of 1/8 inch laminations. Lenox 1/2 inch 3TPI was getting the job done, but wanted to try out Resaw King. Cranked up tension to max and cut was significantly better, although still needed to use planer to smooth face of board afterwards. The problem was that when I began cut the blade would shift perhaps 1/32 of an inch and then follow a perfect straight line the rest of the cut. I thought my blade guide bearings were not the exact same distance from the blade so I adjusted them both to where they were barely touching and rotating a bit when turning the wheels by hand. I thought my bottom guides were properly adjusted also. Maybe I could do better with adjusting the guides. Here is a picture of the cut. Attachment 452063 Any thoughts on the problem? Thanks

  5. #20
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    Thanks for the info John. I tried to get the max tension my Rikon 14 inch could give. Maybe it is just not enough. I futzed around with John White's method for measuring tension from a fine woodworking article in 2001. It looked promising but then I was getting unreliable results. John T has posted good information on measuring bandsaw tension. I should try that or buy a gauge. It just seems like the 3/4 inch blade ends up in different positions on the top wheel ( centered ) and bottom wheel ( at the very front). When I use a half inch blade I do not have this problem. I have not addressed the "co-planer" issue with the wheels, and am hesitant to go further into that area.

  6. #21
    Mark - it has been a while but I had a similar tensioning experience with my Laguna 1412 - it is unable to properly tension a 3/4" x 0.032" blade (Timberwolf PC series). I stick to 1/2" blades now, although I haven't ever tried a 3/4" x 0.025" blade in it.

    But our machines likely have very similar construction and similar tensioning abilities.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by David M Peters View Post
    Mark - it has been a while but I had a similar tensioning experience with my Laguna 1412 - it is unable to properly tension a 3/4" x 0.032" blade (Timberwolf PC series). I stick to 1/2" blades now, although I haven't ever tried a 3/4" x 0.025" blade in it.

    But our machines likely have very similar construction and similar tensioning abilities.
    Yes David, I think our machines are very similar. It just seems when I put full tension on the 3/4 inch blade it seems like it is different positions on the upper and lower wheels, and looks odd to me. I would like to hear from anyone with my Rikon 10-326 or your Laguna 1412 that is doing reliable volume resawing of veneers/laminates of 1/8 inch or less.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Rainey View Post
    Yes David, I think our machines are very similar. It just seems when I put full tension on the 3/4 inch blade it seems like it is different positions on the upper and lower wheels, and looks odd to me. I would like to hear from anyone with my Rikon 10-326 or your Laguna 1412 that is doing reliable volume resawing of veneers/laminates of 1/8 inch or less.
    I wonder if that might indicates some structural deformation of the frame. Years ago I damaged parts on my old 14" Delta trying to tension a blade that was too big for the saw even though Delta said it would work. This was before I learned differently.

    The tensioning bracket in the saw was bent to the point that I couldn't tension any blade properly. The spring was also fully compressed which should have been a huge red flag (spring should never be fully compressed.) I bought new and stronger parts from Iturra Design and everything worked well again.

    JKJ

  9. #24
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    It is possible John. The same problem happened with both new 3/4 inch Resaw King blades.

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