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Thread: In a Gadda Da Vida

  1. #1
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    In a Gadda Da Vida

    I am using some iron butterfly keys on a white oak table and am concerned about long term staining developing.

    Is it impossible to prevent or will a sealcoat of shellac or varnish on both the wood and the bottom of the key prevent an adverse reaction?

    I want to make sure that the oak color "will always be true".

  2. #2
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    You'll have to use stainless steel or non-ferrous if you NEVER want a stain. All that's needed is a crack or scratch in the coating on the steel, and a water spill or wipe down with a damp rag, and you have a stain. But for me at 68, long term is getting shorter all the time.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    I am using some iron butterfly keys on a white oak table and am concerned about long term staining developing.

    Is it impossible to prevent or will a sealcoat of shellac or varnish on both the wood and the bottom of the key prevent an adverse reaction?

    I want to make sure that the oak color "will always be true".
    Why is there not a like button?

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Pratt View Post
    Why is there not a like button?
    +1 After reading the OP's post I just had to go to YouTube and listen to the long version!

  5. #5
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    +1 LOL It's been a long time since I listened to that song

  6. #6
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    I will be listening to that loud this evening, and the neighbors too (not too late though). We have an understanding, if it's to loud for them, they text me & I turn it down.

  7. #7
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    Thumbs up!

    It sure doesn't take much water and iron to really stain oak badly, does it have to be iron?

  8. #8
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    Just save the entire gallon of wine for AFTER the woodworking is done
    There is a very fine line between “hobby” and “mental illness.” - Dave Barry

  9. #9
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    Oooh....one of my favorite songs from "back in the day"...and that was before you were born, Prashun. LOL

    As to the question...yea, sealing will likely help, but there's no guarantees, especially since oak truly likes to stain from ferrous metal.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #10
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    I started listening to the long version at 3:00pm and it’s still not over. 😎

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stephen Rosenthal View Post
    I started listening to the long version at 3:00pm and it’s still not over. 
    That cracked me up. Thanks for the laugh.

  12. #12
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    Way back when, that and Time Has Come Today by the Chambers Bros (all 11 minutes of it) were my favorite headphone songs. Of course I had the long cord extension.

    from wikipedia:
    According to drummer Ron Bushy, organist-vocalist Doug Ingle wrote the song one evening while drinking an entire gallon of Red Mountain wine. When the inebriated Ingle then played the song for Bushy, who wrote down the lyrics for him, he was slurring his words so badly that what was supposed to be "in the Garden of Eden" was interpreted by Bushy as "In-A-Gadda-Da-Vida"

    LOL - those were the days
    Last edited by Bill Carey; 02-13-2021 at 10:53 AM.
    Stand for something, or you'll fall for anything.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    I am using some iron butterfly keys on a white oak table and am concerned about long term staining developing.
    Based on my experiences with a sawmill, iron and oak are two things that should be added to every person's list of "two things that should never go together". Temporary? Sure. But the slightest hint of moisture will cause those black stains you are hoping to avoid. I'm not sure that any level of sealing would be sufficient. How about a different metal? Bronze or copper would look good with oak.
    Jon Endres
    Killing Trees Since 1983

  14. #14
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    Or "weathered" nickel plating on brass in lieu of iron...it would be a fun chemistry exercise.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  15. #15
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    Decades ago I used an industrial product made by Devoe that's a 2 part penetrating primer. I think it's an epoxy. You could use it on top of rust and it would still soak right in. I believe they called it a pre primer. If they still make it (never know about changes the EPA made) it was clear and a bit shiny. The last time I used some was on I-beams for a bridge for residence. He never put anything over it and it still looks the same as when we applied it over 20 years ago. I've seen something similar in a boat store but I've never used it. Of course it might be too expensive for one small project.

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