Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 21 of 21

Thread: Half Blind mitered dovetail hallway table

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Crozet, VA
    Posts
    648
    Stunning, just stunning. Something I would expect to see in the Fine Woodworking Reader’s Gallery.
    There is a very fine line between “hobby” and “mental illness.” - Dave Barry

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,874
    Dang...those are truly inspiring, Edwin!!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Cincinnati, OH
    Posts
    924
    Many of us occasionally reach for the stars. You have reached them as your many recent projects show. Thanks for sharing and inspiring us to be creative and productive.
    Rustic? Well, no. That was not my intention!

  4. #19
    Thanks very much for the compliments.
    A few answers to questions asked:

    The drawers sides are stationary and the applied fronts mitered on the left side only because of the stepping. The three drawer table uses undermount slides. Usually I use Blum Tandem, but here space was so tight that the Hettich Quadro slides were slightly shorter and thus would fit. The smaller table was not deep enough for mechanical slides so nor an applied drawer front so the front is integral to the drawer and runs on wood shopmade slides.







    Regarding the through shelf joinery, it was a combination of dado, rabbet and dowel. The dowel jig is shopmade and the color coding you see was to help me distinguish between the dowel joint for the top-leg from the cantilever shelf-leg. Without the color coding I will always lose track of the holes. The dowels for the floating shelf are long 2" dowels that go through the leg and into the top, so in other words the outboard shelf and top are doweled to each other through the leg. The dado was cut with a plunge router and I seem to recall cutting the rabbets at the router table. The drawer box partitions were doweled to the top and bottom in the same way, though not in dadoes.







    Finish was Arm-R-Seal with a twist. I often think Walnut could use some livening up and depth, so here I applied and dry brushed a water based glaze tinted with Transtint over a sealer coat of Arm-R-Seal. I feel Arm-R-Seal has a high solid content and can become too built up for my taste so to counteract this, I cut it a bit (maybe 10-20%) with mineral spirits and wipe on VERY thin coats.
    The drawer pulls may look upside down from what would be expected. What drove that was the feeling in your hand when you grasp them with your thumb and bent forefinger. Both nestle in the drawer pull in a cozy way, but I'll admit this is probably noticeable to nobody but me.

    Thank you again for the compliments and feedback!

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,874
    I used that mitered corner method for the drawer on Professor Dr. SWMBO's desk drawer for which the end is exposed just like your project design calls for. It's really effective no matter what the wood, but that spalted material you used really makes the wrap around the corner amazing!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Putney, Vermont
    Posts
    1,044
    Another beautifully, artistic piece Edwin. Your work is really reaching the limits of, this is really as good as it gets.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •