Thanks everyone! I'm in Texas and we just got power back. Will read through all of these suggestions b4 I order my first set of tools today.
Thanks everyone! I'm in Texas and we just got power back. Will read through all of these suggestions b4 I order my first set of tools today.
reading the specs for the Nova site for the Pro-Tek Supernova2 it says its for 14" lathes and mine is a Rikon 70-220 12 1/2". But I see folks saying they use the Nova G3 chuck and jaw system with this model Midi lathe.
SuperNova2 has more mass, so less turning blank before your motor will struggle. It also has more depth, so you'll run out of bed a little sooner. (Not much, 1/2"?) Our local Woodcraft's turning guy thinks the Rikon 70-220 would be OK with the SuperNova2 because it's at the higher end of the power range for that size lathe. (I forget, 1HP? Instead of 1/2 to 3/4HP on many of them.)
So basically your call if you have neither. You can pay a little more for a nicer chuck that'll work better on a future bigger lathe or "right size" and use a slightly less refined but very capable chuck with an irritating chuck key.
PS- get all "righty-tighty" new models or all the older "backwards" chucks. I guarantee a mix will drive you crazy. (Also realize the old chuck is "righty-tighty" when expanding it into a recess. )
I have the Rikon 70-100, from before they added VS. I use the Nova Midi chucks on that machine. They are a small compact chuck, made for the small lathes. They can accept up to the 100mm jawset. I think they used to sell an insert version, but I haven't seen that lately. I have only found the direct thread version. Rockler has the chuck. Woodcraft used to, but I didn't see it on their site. Buy at least 2, to minimize jawset changes. Easier to spin on a new chuck vs changing jaws on a chuck.
Being a direct thread 1x8, the midi chuck won't transfer to very many, if any, larger lathes, but if you plan to keep the midi lathe for a while, the midi chucks might be a good investment.
Brian
"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher
I'm not sure I've ever seen one in the flesh, nor can I find a definitive listing of Teknatool chuck sizes. But from the scattered numbers I've found this sounds to be about the same size & weight as the more versatile G3 model. E.g. several sources list "packaged weight" of 3 pounds for both chucks. If I assume the same packaging, the load on the motor would be the same. But that's hardly conclusive.
OK, found a different link that let me download a TeknaTool catalog for free. It doesn't list the Precision Midi nor an adapter G3 chuck as available. Oh, the Pro-Tek version shows an adapter G3 chuck with New Products (though not chucks.) I give up. I only see capacity measurements for different jaws. I can't find chuck body sizes or weights.
Budget? I never can manage to stick to that with tools. Its always more like a financial journey of decisions. This started out being a $260 HF lathe and a $25 starter set of chisels to see if I liked turning and I'm prob going to be at $1500 after chuck system and starter tools. What kind of sharpening system do you have? How much did it all cost?
I am seriously considering just getting a carbide insert system to start and deal with that later, if ever. Was reading some explanations on the difference. Never used either so there's a good chance what I start with is what I will use. It is my understanding that carbide can be sharpened using a diamond disc but most folks just toss the inserts and put in a new one. I have no concept of what that means dollar wise. If a $3 insert is tossed after each turn then I will get a sharpening system if its after 8-9 then I could see it as incidental cost. Still it does make sense just investing the few hundred in sharpening and then buying some good tools that last for a really long time.
Dunno, will keep reading and after I buy my chuck and claw system will decide.
Last edited by Stephen White; 02-16-2021 at 5:47 PM.
David -- Don't over think this. The SuperNova 2 chuck, or the Record Power SC4, is compatible with your lathe. You can also use those chucks with larger lathes. Before the extra weight of these chucks became a problem, you'd have to put a very large and heavy blank on the lathe. The weight just isn't a material factor to consider in choosing between the G3 and the SuperNova 2.
David Walser
Mesa, Arizona
Here's the link on Teknatool's site.
Brian
"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher
I've loaned out my two G3 chucks but I grabbed a Supernova2 with insert and 50mm jaws from the drawer. It weighs 4lb 10oz. I have other SN2 jaws that are made a bit different but they feel about the same weight.
One of my old style Supernovas with insert and 50mm jaws weighs 3lb 15oz.
A Nova Titan (direct thread) with larger jaws weighs 8lb 1oz.
The G3s are physically smaller and lighter in weight.
As David W said, your lathe will handle all of these, but the Titan might be overkill. However, spinning a heavy balanced chuck is not an issue even with a lathe smaller than yours. Spinning an unbalanced blank in any chuck is a factor for both stress to the lathe and possibly trauma to your face. (For safety make absolutely sure you are preparing the tenon or recess properly - there are several things that are easy to do wrong if you don't know the right ways.)
The SN2 chucks are my favorite. Second favorite are the G3s. My least favorite are the old style SN chucks with the wobbly pinion gear chuck key.
BTW, I don't consider the direction of turning a consideration as long as all the chucks in the shop work the same way. Remember that the direction for tightening depends on whether you are tightening on a tenon or tightening in a recess. If you find yourself sometimes turning the wrong way maybe do this: I use a vibrating engraver to draw a curved arrow above the socket with the word OUT.
JKJ
I assume that's directed at me, but it's the OP that needs to decide. SN2 is a nicer chuck, and would work well on bigger future lathes and as well for most things on OP's lathe. But the SN2 would also use a little more of the Rikon 70/220VSR's capacity than the G3. I thought I described the trade-off in the second post here.
I had found that, but it doesn't give chuck dimensions anywhere I saw. If the dimensions from scattered internet sites suggesting the Precision Midi and the G3 are the same length and weight are correct, I wouldn't be interested in the Midi with it's tommy bars versus the G3 with it's T-wrench chuck key. OTOH- if it was shorter and saved 1/2" or 3/4" of bed length I'd consider it since I'm sensitive to running out of blank plus tooling space between centers.
Also see above, the SN2 or other competing brands would be nicer unless Stephen has a project that falls in the small range it's larger size would inhibit. (I've mostly done spindles and I managed to run out of bed length on a Powermatic 4224. So I'm sensitive to the point, perhaps over sensitive. There's always another way, but it's annoying to stop a project while you scrounge or shop for a different tool.)
Heck, Stephen while we're spending your money, get the bed extension and then you'll have plenty of room for the more expensive SN2, or equivalent. I am probably over thinking this. It's only (your ) money!
I don't care about using anything from this lathe to another larger one. I can always add an extension to get length to full size if I want and if I buy another down the road will just get another chuck system. I want the best tools for this lathe. Thanks for this will go check Midi chucks.
Nope, didn't know enough about turning to know I needed one. Sounds like carbide would be a quick option to push that decision down the road a bit. I have been researching this for a couple of hours and it seems a 3 piece set of yufutol, rikon, easy wood tools all run around 150-250 and then the inserts run around 5-6 bucks and can be used for 180 minutes. Sounds like might be fine while learning but then get to expensive if using for a product. The $300 bucks mentioned was just a guesstimate on what I thought I would spend not really a budget. Can spend what I need just want to get it right if I can so not wasting money on wrong gear. Thanks for the post!
Recent long thread on the topic: Buying First Turning Tools (set advice and/or individual)
Though I'll repeat my plug for a few decent (mid-range or up) tools and a Oneway Wolverine sharpening system with the Vari-Grind1 to start. Because the economy tools can cause a beginner more trouble than they're worth and most, practically all, sharpening instruction assumes you have the Wolverine system.
(Crown, Sorby, Henry Taylor, Craft Supplies house brand, Packard's house brand tools would be good. Doug Thompson or D-Way tools would be great. 1/2 HP Rikon 1/2 speed grinder seems to be a sweet spot, though there are much better grinders and with skill much cheaper ones are usable.)