Dust Gorilla Pro wall mount question

[Steve Wurster]

I'm wondering if anybody out there has a current-style Oneida Dust Gorilla Pro mounted on a wall and can answer a sizing question for me. The folks at Oneida seemed to be confused by my question.

I'm wondering how far off the wall the unit sits when it's installed in this manner. I know the freestanding setup takes up 30", but I want to know how much room the wall-mount installation takes. I'm assuming it's less, since the cyclone body seems to be narrower than the stand. Note: I don't need to know how far out the fan housing sits, as that's up above head level. I'm only interested in the main cyclone body section. If you have the values to the edge of the body and to the edge of the flange, that would be great, too.

I'm looking into getting one of these for my shop, but it's potential placement location is more or less narrow, so space is at a premium in that location. Hence my concern about how much space the unit takes up when mounted on the wall.

Thanks!

[Jim Becker]

Steve, you can likely estimate that by using the largest diameter the unit has anywhere and add about an inch for between the unit and the wall. That's about how my older machine is on wall brackets. If any pre drilled holes in the brackets force the unit farther out, you can likely modify things to keep it closer.

[Steve Wurster]

Steve, you can likely estimate that by using the largest diameter the unit has anywhere and add about an inch for between the unit and the wall. That's about how my older machine is on wall brackets. If any pre drilled holes in the brackets force the unit farther out, you can likely modify things to keep it closer.

Jim, I don't have any other known dimensions on the unit. All they provide is a general freestanding mount requirement, but not the size of the cyclone body itself. The email I got from Oneida even said, "these are the only dimensions we have", meaning the ones shown in their manual, and I'm thinking can't somebody go out and physically measure the cyclone? So I'm asking here as well.

And I know the bracket has two mounting options: Close to wall, and parallel to wall. The latter is further from the wall so that the filter stack ends up against the wall. I think that setup is too far off the wall for my situation, although it would be better from a deployment setup for my shop. Instead I'm thinking of putting the unit as close to the wall as possible and having the filter being as far from the wall as possible but still setup parallel to the wall. I can estimate that distance based on their provided measurements.

[Ole Anderson]

I have a 2 hp Super Dust Gorilla, not a current model. It is wall mounted and sticks out about 26" from the wall. Jim has it right.

[Steve Wurster]

I have a 2 hp Super Dust Gorilla, not a current model. It is wall mounted and sticks out about 26" from the wall. Jim has it right.

Ole, thanks for the info. I assume that 26" is from the wall to the flange between the cyclone and the inlet sections? I think that would work fine for me, actually.

[Jim Becker]

I believe that Ole's unit is pretty much the same as mine other than mine came just before the paint changed from ivory to yellow. The number sounds about right from memory as my DC closet is approximately 4x8 and there's not quite a foot and a half between the barrel and the inner wall/door surface I did stick the motor up between the joists for comfortable use of a 55 gallon bin.

[Steve Wurster]

I believe that Ole's unit is pretty much the same as mine other than mine came just before the paint changed from ivory to yellow. The number sounds about right from memory as my DC closet is approximately 4x8 and there's not quite a foot and a half between the barrel and the inner wall/door surface I did stick the motor up between the joists for comfortable use of a 55 gallon bin.

Jim,

I will have to install it with the motor between the joists as well. But since the overall height of the unit is just barely taller than the bottom of my joists, I can't get away with a 55 gallon bin. That's okay, as I have a 35 gallon bin now and that works for my needs.

I'm more concerned about horizontal spacing, as there is just under 6 feet of space between the wall I'm looking at and my HVAC equipment. However that "pathway" is also the entrance to my shop, more or less. Right now there is a shelving unit up against that wall, which sticks out 25" from the wall. I don't want that space to get too much narrower, as it makes it difficult to bring things into and out of the shop. But a 26" cyclone in that spot should work, especially since it's not a full cylinder but instead a cone. Still, I'm hoping Oneida or someone on here can get me the "modern" numbers.

The other concern is the placement of the filter stack. I wanted to have it face into the shop, parallel to the wall and also parallel to the inlet (the filter stack would be closest to the wall, while the inlet would be furthest away, both pointing in the same direction). The end of that wall is an outside corner, so I was hoping the filter stack would take up some of that open "around the corner" space. However that won't work at all because in that scenario a joist would be in the way of the motor. So instead I have to mount the entire unit further down the wall away from the corner. If I still want the filter facing that direction that would require the whole unit to be even further off the wall, and that definitely won't work. So instead I will have to have the filter facing the opposite direction (basically behind the inlet), and right now that would interfere with a toolbox that I have placed next to the shelving unit. I can move that toolbox though, so that setup should be doable.

And then there's the issue of duct layout, but that's another post. LOL

[Steve Wurster]

Ole and Jim, perhaps one of you can answer this question:

Can the barrel section of your DC be assembled in 15 degree increments, or 45 degree? It appears as though the fan housing can only be assembled in 45 degree increments relative to the barrel, however it looks like the barrel has finer increments relative to the cone. Finer increments for the barrel might make my installation easier, as I might be able to better control where the inlet and filter are relative to the walls.

I sent an email to my Oneida rep asking about this and a few other questions, however he apparently had to deal with a family issue and is out of office for the remainder of the week. Obviously I can wait until he gets back, but I was hoping one of you two (or anybody else) can answer this for me.

Thanks!

[Ole Anderson]

Ole and Jim, perhaps one of you can answer this question:

Can the barrel section of your DC be assembled in 15 degree increments, or 45 degree? It appears as though the fan housing can only be assembled in 45 degree increments relative to the barrel, however it looks like the barrel has finer increments relative to the cone. Finer increments for the barrel might make my installation easier, as I might be able to better control where the inlet and filter are relative to the walls.

I sent an email to my Oneida rep asking about this and a few other questions, however he apparently had to deal with a family issue and is out of office for the remainder of the week. Obviously I can wait until he gets back, but I was hoping one of you two (or anybody else) can answer this for me.

Thanks!

The wall bracket uses the same bolts that connect the cone to the main section. There are 12-14 bolts so the unit can be rotated in 25-30 degree increments.

[Steve Wurster]

The wall bracket uses the same bolts that connect the cone to the main section. There are 12-14 bolts so the unit can be rotated in 25-30 degree increments.

Great. Ah, it looks like the current manual shows 12 bolts, which would be 30 degree increments. Oooh, that just might work fine in my shop, although it's really hard to tell without physically having the unit here. lol

[Jim Becker]

The pieces are independent and the only place there are pre-drilled holes (I believe) are on the rim that sits on the wall mounts...and you can certainly drill new holes if needed. The other components (at least on mine) use clamps to hold the pieces together. I did not have any issue orienting mine to a weird angle so I could extend the exhaust out to an alternative location for my filter so there was no interference with my compressor and no blocking the electric service panel for my shop.

[Steve Wurster]

The pieces are independent and the only place there are pre-drilled holes (I believe) are on the rim that sits on the wall mounts...and you can certainly drill new holes if needed. The other components (at least on mine) use clamps to hold the pieces together. I did not have any issue orienting mine to a weird angle so I could extend the exhaust out to an alternative location for my filter so there was no interference with my compressor and no blocking the electric service panel for my shop.

Ah, you've got the older clamp-style design. The current models use bolts instead, but it looks like there might be enough of them that I can at least partially control the angles.

And, yeah, I thought about drilling new holes for connecting the fan housing at an "odd" angle. However from what I understand doing that voids the warranty... so that's a bit of a risk.

For my setup the filter stack will probably be partly "in the way", while the pipes going into the inlet will partly block access to my lumber rack, but that shouldn't be much of an issue.

[Jim Becker]

Do keep in mind that you can extend the connection to the filter which can help a whole lot in positioning, both in a confined space like mine is in, as well as in a "not ideal but what I have available" space situation like you have.

[Steve Wurster]

Do keep in mind that you can extend the connection to the filter which can help a whole lot in positioning, both in a confined space like mine is in, as well as in a "not ideal but what I have available" space situation like you have.

I had that thought as well. I was wondering if I could build a "box" to go between the fan housing outlet and the filter stack's inlet that simply moves the filter stack away from the unit itself. That would allow me to put everything basically originally where I wanted it. The hardest part would be supporting the stack in that scenario, but I've got joists right above that so that should be doable.

[Jim Becker]

I just used 8" 26 gauge round duct between the exhaust port and the filter...that was the size that was appropriate for my 2hp unit and they offered rectangular to round adapters which I purchased. But yes, you can actually build your own plenum no problem.