Turning tool sharpening jig

[Jim Jackson Wyoming]

I'm looking for recommendations as to what sharpening system/jig to get to sharpen a basic set of lathe tools.
I have a Robert Sorby 6 piece set with roughing, spindle and bowl gouges, skew, scraper and parting tool. If/when the time comes to add other specialized tools, a tool holder that could be added to the sharpening system would be a bonus.

[David Walser]

Jim -- I have three recommendations for you. I'll give them in order of my personal preference.

First: Tormek turning tool jigs and their bench grinder tool support base. This allows you to use the Tormek jigs with an 8" bench grinder (preferably with CBN wheels). Tormek makes two jigs for turning tools and a turning tool setter that makes setting the jigs up. The jigs are simply better than any others I've used.

Second: The Tru-Grind jig with its base from Woodcut. The jig and base are very similar to, and use the same principles, as the Wolverine sharpening system and Varigrind jig from Oneway. I prefer the the Tru-Grind because it's base takes up much less room than does the Wolverine base. Also, the Tru-Grind base uses a small 'cup' to properly locate the Tru-Grind jig. I find this to be more precise and secure than the pocket of the Wolverine's V-arm, which serves the same purpose for the Varigrind jig. While my preference for the Tru-Grind jig over the Varigrind is only slight, not everyone agrees. One very well-known woodturner traveled with his Tru-Grind jig so he could use it at demos, rather than use a club's Varigrind jig.

Third: The Wolverine sharpening system with the Varigrind jig. This is the most popular set up by far. The chief advantage this provides is that this is the system that will most likely be available if you were to visit someone else's shop.

All three will give you good results. I just prefer the jigs in the order mentioned. There are other systems on the market. I've just not used any of those so I cannon offer any insight into their use.

[David Bassett]

OK, I'll play contrarian. I assume you're a beginner (otherwise you'd just use whatever you originally used.)

Get what ever your instructor, mentor, or local club uses.

At least around here, and in most places if Internet discussion is representative, that is the Wolverine system. I'd estimate 95% of all instructions and 100% of the local classes here use it. It is a capable system and as a beginner you don't want to be translating directions from one system to another, you just want to master following them.

I will note there are many excellent turners who use other systems with great success, it's not the system that is key but matching the instructions available as you start out.

[William C Rogers]

I favor the Wolverine sharpening system. I have never used the Wood cut system, so no comment there. I do have the Tormek fixtures, but no longer use them with my CBN wheels. My knockoff Jet died years ago.

The reason I favor it is because that is the system used by most turners. It is also a system where other aftermarket manufactures make use. The spindle and bowl gouge are the two tools most difficult to grind. If you could grind these free hand, then you would only need a platform for the rest. For my spindle and bowl gouges I was using the OneWay Vari-grind jig or the Tormek jig. I have since changed to the Hannes Vector jig that utilizes the Wolverine base. I have found this jig to be the quicker and more repeatable. For platform grinding I use the Robo Rest, but Reed is no longer producing them. The Wolverine platform can be used, but setup will take longer.

[Walter Mooney]

Plus one for the Tru-Grind system from Woodcut. I have it on both sides of my grinder. It’s very easy to learn/master, and yields great repeatable results! And David’s correct about the space it doesn’t take up. I’ll be buying one for the second shop I’m in the process of building.

[Randy Heinemann]

I saw at least one answer concerning Tormek. I own a Tormek from a period of time when I believed that it could solve all my sharpening problems. It can't, but it is great for sharpening gouges and scrapers easily. With the necessary jigs, the results are amazing (to me). The steel tools are sharp; really sharp. In the end, I purchased a diamond wheel which came available from Tormek last summer. I can also sharpen some of my carbide insert tools on that wheel which means I don't have to replace these cutters every time they dull.

There are other jigs for the Tormek for a variety of sharpening tasks and tools. However, I found that it works best for me with turning tools and not so well (for me) with chisels and plane blades.

The main drawback of the Tormek - COST. It's expensive and, if you add the diamond wheel, it gets more expensive.

[Allen Mattsen]

I understand the Wolverine system takes up extra space vs the Woodcut/Tru-Grind system. Are there drawbacks to the Woodcut system somehow, other than it being less widely used/accepted?

Also, why aren't more folks using Ken's system from Woodturners Wonders?

[David Walser]

I cannot think of any downside other than the one mentioned.

I'm not sure why Ken's system hasn't swept the market. Most experienced turners already have a sharpening system that works for them. For me (and many of the rest?), this may be a case of if you've got something that works, why switch. Having said that, it may be that in five years, Ken's system will be the defacto standard. Who knows? What I do know is I, personally, haven't given Ken's system a close look beyond viewing Ken's YouTube video. It looks nice. But, it would cost me over $400 to get my 1hp Rikon grinder set up -- $255 for the 'system' with the 1hp base, another $99 for the tool rest, $78 for the Tormek adapter that would allow me to use my Tormek jigs. That's a lot of coin for what, to me, appears to be little benefit. I can already use my Tormek jigs and I already have a decent tool rest (although I might like Ken's better).

What about Ken's system for a new turner? The advantage seems to be ease of use. However, to get that ease of use, you're limited to 6 different profiles for your spindle and bowl gouges. I use a lot more than 6 different profiles. That is, the simplicity and ease of use comes at the cost of reduced flexibility. (At least, that's what appears to be the case from just looking at the system on Ken's website and watching his videos.) I fear that as a turner gains experience, he or she will want the flexibility to use a nose bevel angle of, say, 65 degrees on a new bowl gouge, but wants it to have an 'Irish' profile. Is that one of Ken's 6 profiles? Can it be done with Ken's system? Yes, changing the amount the tool extends from the jig will change the bevel angle. With trial and error, I'm sure it can be done -- but there goes the simplicity of the system.

In contrast, Tormek's jig is set up using one of three standard tool extensions, one of two standard distances from the wheel, and one of (IIRC) arm angles. That gives you 36 'standard' spindle and bowl gouge profiles to choose from. (I use a Sharpie to right the 'formula' for each gouge's profile on each gouge. I can quickly set up to touch up any of my gouges by following the formula.) If you want to depart from one of the standard formulae, you may. It will just require some trial and error. Given that, I don't find Ken's system simpler than what I already have, but I do find it more limiting.

[Jim Jackson Wyoming]

Perhaps I should have provided a bit more information about myself. I had a wood shop class in Junior High 50 years ago. My instructor was in his later years of teaching at the time and I'm sure he is long gone now. The sharpening system he used was free hand, and the students weren't allowed to try it. If there were any jigs available at the time our school didn't have them. In the 50 years between then and now I had not touched a lathe. I guess you could call me a beginner, I made a few things with questionable tools and lots of sandpaper that only a mother could love. For some reason my wife doesn't show the same enthusiasm for my projects that mom did.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll be doing some reading before I order what ever I decide on. I'm leaning toward the True-Grind jig and base. When I order a system, I know I'll need the jig and base, are there other pieces I need to the tools I mentioned in my first post?

[James Cheever]

Another vote for the Wolverine setup with CBN wheels. The system pretty covers the spectrum of turning tools and gives consistent results, whatever your skill level.

[Allen Mattsen]

Lots of great information guys. Know it's appreciated.

[Rusty Nesmith]

I also use the Wolverine with the Varigrind. Very easy to use and does a great job.

[John K Jordan]

I find the mini platform for the Wolverine useful, even necessary on some shorter tools. (And it's cheaper now than when I bought it 5 yrs ago.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007W1NC78

oneway-mini-platform.jpg

Also, if considering the Varigrind 2 for the Wolverine, I got one to try and don't like it even a little bit. I far prefer the original Varigrind. I keep the 2 around to let people try it and show them what I don't like about it.

vargrind.jpg

I got the skew jig and never used it. It's up for grabs if someone wants to come after it.

JKJ

[Jim Jackson Wyoming]

I thought I'd post an update
I bought the Woodcut Tru-Grind jig and bases, along with a Rikon 1/2 HP slow speed grinder. Right now I'm using the white wheels that came with the grinder, and will until it is time to replace them. I may go with cbn wheels at that time.
Since I had nothing to compare the sharpness of my new Robert Sorby tools to other than 50 year old memories, I thought they were sharp from the factory, and I used them till I purchased the grinder and Tru-Grind. All I can say is WOW!! I went from getting chips before sharpening them to shavings after. WOW!! With the scrap wood I'm practicing with I get smoother finish without sanding as I was after spending a lot of time with 80 grit sand paper.
I can't compare the Tru-Grind system to anything else, but I can say it works great for me, and I'd recommend it to anyone starting out like I am.

[David Walser]

I'm glad the set-up works for you. You'll get good results with the A/O wheels that came with your grinder. Just keep them dressed so that they cut cleanly. However, when they are worn-out, replace them with CBN wheels. You'll be amazed with how much better the CBN wheels work.