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Thread: how would you make these doors?

  1. #16
    mortise and tennon, mitred profile.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    New England, in a town on the way to nowhere
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    538
    I've done doors along those lines as 9 pc doors where I offset t&g'd a thicker band to the 1/2" panel(mitering the band) and then cut the necessary tongue on the band to fit the stiles and rails. My difference was a profile at the panel and I only had to do 8 doors.
    If you have to do 90, getting a custom C&P set is most viable

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Dickinson, Texas
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    I would experiment on some small samples until I found what I like.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Ann Arbor, MI
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    521
    yep. tomorrow i plan on building a few mock-ups to get the proportions right. thanks for all the feedback - i'll report back once i determine the solution.

  5. #20
    I would attach a proper cost to each and the client would choose.

  6. #21
    Sub them out! Hundreds of door companies that can deliver completed doors for less than your material costs.

  7. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Wrenn View Post
    Sub them out! Hundreds of door companies that can deliver completed doors for less than your material costs.
    Could you send me a list of those companies.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    May 2013
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    Northern Virginia
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnny means View Post
    Could you send me a list of those companies.
    I'd like a copy of that list.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Ann Arbor, MI
    Posts
    521
    i "solved" this by using parts to a few of my freeborn cope and stick sets. the challenge was to get the "applied moulding" piece as thin as possible, and unfortunately, i could only get it to 5.5mm, the thickness of the thinnest groover i have in the freeborn sets. so, what you see in this picture is a 5.5mm thick "moulding" portion, 12mm wide, on top of a 1/4" tongue/groove for the panel and cope and stick. it's a tight joint with a ton of glue surface area, so i'm not worried about anything coming apart (especially with the panels glued in). but, i wish i could have figured out how to get a 4mm thick moulding profile, instead of 5.5. 5.5 is a bit heavy for my taste.

    joe, i spent almost two hours trying to solve this with the multi-use cutter and a groover, and determined it would be very tricky to do in a reasonable number of passes. the little wing cutter on the multi-use is 4mm thick, which is perfect, but does a maximum depth of cut of 8mm, which isn't enough. i could do it with spacers, and a 4mm groover, but it would be at least two passes per cope and stick, vs. one each for the freeborn setup. so, that's that.

    if anyone has any other brilliant ideas, i'm all ears. thanks for the assistance.

    --- dz

    A203F0A0-93DC-44DF-BD5F-E69EA0A2A49F_1_105_c.jpg

    0DC049B9-8016-4E88-843C-ED2775E71310_1_105_c.jpeg

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Ann Arbor, MI
    Posts
    521
    120 doors and panels later, they came out great. tight joints, and plenty of glue surface. the client is very happy.


    96F5CB59-C68B-464A-AF3D-BEC94930B6C0_1_105_c.jpeg

    374321D4-E50A-4E93-B810-3F9EC822BC5B_1_105_c.jpeg

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Ouray Colorado
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    Looks good Dave!
    What did you end up using for cutters?

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Ann Arbor, MI
    Posts
    521
    joe, i ended up taking cutters from my various freeborn 6-cutter stacks, customized spacers, and good programming on the martin. once i dialed it in (and sped the spindle up to 10k), i got great results.

    thanks for your help, as always.

    --- dz

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