6" ridgidjointer and a ridgid planer vrs a 8" grizzly jointer

[Josh Goldsmith]

I know i just posted about the bandsaw but i am right about to buy some new tools . I am one of those people that research's the heck out of everything first. It is actually annoying. Here is my situation. I found a used 6" ridgid jointer that is a couple years old and then buy a used bench top planer like a 13". Or i found a slightly used 8" jointer that will probably sell for 450-500 maybe a few pennies cheaper. I have read that many of people are happy with there 6" jointer but always say they wish they had a 8". I just don't want to be one of those who regrets buying a 6". Now i don't have a jointer so any jointer would be better than what i have now. Maybe i will be happy with a 6". I guess i am kind of hoping you will help me make my difficult decisions. Thanks

Josh

[Gregg Mason]

Go for the 8". I have a 6, and I am one of those looking for an upgrade.

[Allen Bookout]

I have a 6" Ridgid jointer and it is a pretty good little jointer although it took a little shimming to get it right. But that is what it is, a little jointer. I just ordered the Grizzly GO490 which is an 8" jointer that looks like that it is a copy of the Delta DJ20 so am going to sell my Ridgid. I know that an 8" is a little jointer to some on this forum but it will be a lot better unit for me for what I want to do than the 6". I would have been money ahead if I had bought the eight inch to start with.

I would bet you Josh, that if you get the 6 inch it will not be long before you say "man---I sure wish that I had gone for the 8 inch". I would also bet that eighty per cent of the people here that first purchased a six inch have either upgraded to an eight or wish that they had bought an eight in the first place.

It will be interesting to see if I am right.

Good luck in making the correct decision. One last word--------GET THE EIGHT INCH!!!!!! Allen

[Dave Harker]

Get the 8". The vast majority of rough wood I've bought (admittedly not much) is between 6" and 8" in width. So, almost none of it could be face-jointed using a 6" jointer (without ripping in half), and almost all of it can be face-jointed using a 8" jointer.

I got the 8" due to others here telling me the same thing I'm telling you.
My choice was the Griz G1018. It's 65" long, vs. others that are longer, and I have "space issues" and 65" is long enough for me. Plus, the G1018 is the cheapest of their 8" jointers.

Dave

[Walt Pater]

Josh, whichever one you buy will ultimately prove to be about 2" shy of the stock you get a bargain on. DAMHIKT

[scott spencer]

You'll rarely read about someone with too big a jointer. It's more efficient to move forward slowly than to go quickly, then back up and redo the original purchases.

[Jeff Sudmeier]

Now I guess I am one of those people that says get some tools and get to work first, then buy the best. Yes it may cost more in the long run, but at least you got to build something If I waited to buy tools that I wouldn't replace, I still wouldn't be woodworking. Many on this forum and others suggest that you buy something you won't upgrade, that is fine, but starting out it is a huge cost. I count the cost of the tools that I will upgrade as part of my hobby cost, It is worth it to be to be actually working wood, than to only have one tool I won't replace

So my suggestion is this, if buying the 8" jointer will mean that you can't get a planer for some time, buy the 6" jointer and the planer so you can start enjoying this hobby.

[Jim Fancher]

So my suggestion is this, if buying the 8" jointer will mean that you can't get a planer for some time, buy the 6" jointer and the planer so you can start enjoying this hobby.

I agree. Get both ... or atleast just a planer. You can get by without a jointer for a while.

[Josh Goldsmith]

As i started to read the responses i was excited because everyone was agreeing on what i should do. Buy the 8" jointer. Farther down i read it switches and you recommend buying the 6" and the planer. I am still back to square one. I really don't know what to do. I have built a few large projects without a jointer and without a planer and it came out beautiful. I also had a small portable table saw that the fence moved when you pushed on it. So now i bought a nice table saw that will make a big difference. I plan on buying a bandsaw because i want to build dinning chairs pretty quick. Please let the opinions keep comming cause i am having a hard time choosing. Thanks

Josh

[John Hemenway]

Other things to consider:
What kind of power do you have access to in the shop? Almost all 8" jointers require 220v. This was a deciding factor for me. I am going to update the shop to 220, just not right now.

Most 8" jointers are really big! Well, duh . Do you have room for a tool that takes up 75-80"?

If you are OK with both of the above and the used 8" ($500!) is in good condition, I'd vote for the 8". It's not really that much more than a new 6".

[Jeff Eiber]

Josh
<O</O
I went through a similar dilemma as you. In the summer of 2004 I drove to Grizzly in PA to buy tools to get started building cabinets. After deciding on the TS, DC, DP and planer I struggled with which jointer to buy: 6” or 8” (really whether to spend $325 or $700)? I finally chose the 6” 1182 and headed home. The 1182 jointer needed a replacement pulley and a better belt but once those tweaks were made the jointer worked very well. At the lumber yard I passed up a few boards wider than 6” but not too many. I still find many beautiful boards under 6” wide.
<O</O
Then Grizzly had a closeout sale on the 1018 8” jointer. I still had a nagging desire for the bigger jointer so I decided to upgrade. I sold the jointer with an extra set of knives, $20, and homemade mobile base, $25, for $300 to the first caller. I headed back to Grizzly, paid my $595, and headed home again. The G1018 needed a new fence and better v-belts but it cuts well too.
<O</O
Do I wish I had purchased the 8” jointer to start with. No.

The 6” jointer got me started and the cost to upgrade later was minimal, other than the difference in cost between the two jointers. I also learned that the Grizzly tool was easy to resell. If Grizzly comes out with a TS with a true riving knife I’ll be replacing my 1023ZX too.<O</O<O</O

[JayStPeter]

I agree with the others. Get the planer, then move up later. A used 6" is the perfect thing to buy because you'll probably get nearly 100% of your money back out of it when you upgrade.

Jay

[Allen Bookout]

I agree with the others. Get the planer, then move up later. A used 6" is the perfect thing to buy because you'll probably get nearly 100% of your money back out of it when you upgrade.

Jay

That's good to hear. Do you want to buy mine? Allen

[Josh Goldsmith]

Regarding 220v i have an outlet that is not being used. Also my electric panel is very easy to run an dedicated outlet for the jointer. I am still undecided. I am bidding on the 8" jointer if i get it for under $475 i will buy that but if it goes over then i will take the 6". I think that is my plan .

[Charlie Plesums]

I didn't read all the details in this post, but I did sell my 6 inch jointer...To receive the top grade, hardwood must be at least 6 inches wide when finished, which means that it must be at least 6 1/2 inches wide when rough. Which means you can't finish it with a 6 inch jointer. I was thinking of an 8 inch but took the giant step to a 16 inch jointer, and love it.

Many people use the 6 inch jointer for edge jointing. If you can't get a glue edge with your saw, get a better blade and align the saw - I rarely edge joint on the jointer.