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Thread: Changing planer knives

  1. #1
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    Mar 2008
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    Changing planer knives

    Colleagues: do believe it is time to change the knives on the 15” planer. Luckily, there is no taper width wise. But I have an upcoming project that may require the planer to be utilized more than before. And to say the least, I am a bit apprehensive about do it as seems that everything I hear is the job is a PITA.

    Some claim that the jointer/planer knife jigs, like the one below really simplifies the task and shortens the time to do it -- https://www.infinitytools.com/planer-knife-setting-jigs

    Has anyone utilized such jigs and how did they work or did not work out.
    Last edited by Ray Newman; 02-06-2021 at 10:19 PM.

  2. #2
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    I’ve found the easiest way is using the stock knife setting gauge to get in the ballpark, and a dual gauge for getting, well, dialed in. The videos by Bob Vaughan are very helpful.

  3. #3
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    Matt Day, the old GeeTech-Sunhill planer is missing its OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) knife setting gauge.
    Last edited by Ray Newman; 02-07-2021 at 1:15 AM. Reason: spellin'

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2018
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    Lancaster, Ohio
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    1,366
    yes
    it makes it easier
    practice, practice and practice works best for this job




    Quote Originally Posted by Ray Newman View Post
    Colleagues: do believe it is time to change the knives on the 15” planer. Luckily, there is no taper width wise. But I have an upcoming project that may require the planer to be utilized more than before. And to say the least, I am a bit apprehensive about do it as seems that everything I hear is the job is a PITA.

    Some claim that the jointer/planer knife jigs, like the one below really simplifies the task and shortens the time to do it -- https://www.infinitytools.com/planer-knife-setting-jigs

    Has anyone utilized such jigs and how did they work or did not work out.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    McKinney, TX
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    You might look into Dispozablade. It’s a set that includes a self setting backer that their knives snap onto. The knives are double edged so it’s a simple matter of loosening the gib screws, pop the knife off the backer and put it back in the cutter head. I’ve had them on my 16” jointer for years and love them. No jack screws or springs. The backer indexes off the cutter head. I’ve found that the knives stay sharp longer than normal knives and since they are reversible the cost per knife isn’t a much more than two sharpenings.
    Steve Jenkins, McKinney, TX. 469 742-9694
    Always use the word "impossible" with extreme caution

  6. #6
    Yes, it can be a pain, for me it’s a 2-3 hour exercise. To be clear, it’s a 20” planer and getting knives set to within a thou across that distance is quite an exercise.

    Jigs are fine -IF- the bed is absolutely parallel to the roller. I know this is not the case on mine. Close, but certainly not within a thou. I doubt this is true of any machine, and I can’t imagine the ordeal to achieve it.

    So, I align the knives to the bed, which means setting up a dial indicator and working from underneath, which means lights, setup blocks to ensure consistent gauge location, removing infeed table - you get the picture.

    My manual describes using a wood block and feeler gauges, but I can’t get consistent results.

  7. #7
    I tried the knife setting jigs on my jointer/planer, and gave up after a couple of hours. They went into the trash.

    My best success has been using a slightly modified version of the technique Bob Vaughan shows in this video:



    After I ensured my outfeed table was parallel to the cutter block, and the infeed table was coplanar with the outfeed table, I turned my attention to the blade installation. I removed the springs that push the blades up, as I didn't need them for my method. Rather than a random guess at the height when starting, I use two welder's right angle magnets to hold the blades in place while I gently snug the outside gib bolts just to hold the blades in place. Two sheets of printer paper between the outfeed table and magnets ensure the blades are uniformly proud of the outfeed table by a few thousandths for the final adjustment.

    I follow Bob's method to set the blades at finished height even with the outfeed table. The last time I did this, setting the three blades took me about 20 minutes.

  8. #8
    OP was asking about a planer, not jointer.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Jenkins View Post
    You might look into Dispozablade. It’s a set that includes a self setting backer that their knives snap onto. The knives are double edged so it’s a simple matter of loosening the gib screws, pop the knife off the backer and put it back in the cutter head. I’ve had them on my 16” jointer for years and love them. No jack screws or springs. The backer indexes off the cutter head. I’ve found that the knives stay sharp longer than normal knives and since they are reversible the cost per knife isn’t a much more than two sharpenings.
    I love the Disposablades in my jointer. You can change them in 10 minutes. I plan to put them in my planer when the present blades are ready to be changed. It is a bit expensive the first time because you will need the blade holders. After that they are fairly cheap.

  10. #10
    tried a lesser knife setting gauge on the jointer that didnt have the fine adjustment that one has and didnt get it and had no patience for it, it wasnt even close. Disposa type knives have been slagged enough times on sites so while some are happy as many were not. I have a brand of them and took them out for high speed steel but would have to try them for some time to pass a judgement.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    Peoria, IL
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    "The only thing to fear is fear itself" You can buy an OEM gage at lots of places, that planer has been sold under lots of names. I've been changing stock blades for 48 years. No need for fancy jigs and rigs. Uniform tightening is critical to success. Lightly snug up all the bolts on the retainer first, starting in the middle. Then firmly snug the row up, then fully tighten them. Fully tightening on one end and working across will cause issues. Cleanliness is also important. After removing the blade, clean the head, the head slot, and clamp bar. You want zero residue on the surfaces. If you have any surface rust, scrape with a single edge razor blade and scrub with a Scotch-brite. Just go easily and methodically. It's not black magic!

  12. #12
    as well before fresh go in check if they were ground straightm then hone them with a hard arkansas slip stone. Be careful they will be wicked sharp at that point.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Lake View Post
    tried a lesser knife setting gauge on the jointer that didnt have the fine adjustment that one has and didnt get it and had no patience for it, it wasnt even close. Disposa type knives have been slagged enough times on sites so while some are happy as many were not. I have a brand of them and took them out for high speed steel but would have to try them for some time to pass a judgement.
    Warren. Could you tell us where you read about people who were unhappy with the Disposablades? I am curious why.
    Charlie Jones

  14. #14
    not sure I saved it but read it twice more likely three times. Will see if i did and likely from this site. the longer the knives the more unhappy. I save lots just dont always know where so likely have them in another folder but here is one.

    Capture.jpg
    Last edited by Warren Lake; 02-07-2021 at 10:36 PM.

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Wrenn View Post
    OP was asking about a planer, not jointer.
    The OP has a planer, but he asked about the jig used to set the knives in a jointer/planer.

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