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Thread: Compressor Question

  1. #16
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    Dec 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Wilson80 View Post
    That was what I envisioned at first but then reading other posts, it seemed way more complicated with copper lines and drain valves, etc.
    ...
    Tom -- You don't need to run a hard line (copper or otherwise) to do what you want. You can use regular air hose for everything. I suggested a hose reel simply because it allows you to get the hose where you want it and easily put it out of the way when you don't need it. If you're NOT going to use compressed air anywhere but the lathe, just run the hose along a wall or across the ceiling to the lathe. Done.

    The reason for suggesting a hard line for going through the wall is that any vibration transferred by the compressor to the hose, or by movement of the hose while you're using it, may cause the hose to rub on the concrete -- potentially causing a leak over time. (Probably a really long time.) Again, a hard line is not necessary for going through the wall. You can reduce abrasion on the air hose in a number of ways. My uncle ran an air hose through a concrete wall. The hole was oversize (and may have already been there for another reason). He wrapped the hose in rock wool insulation before stuffing it through the hole. The insulation helped reduce noise infiltration through the hole and prevented the hose from rubbing on the concrete. There are lots of other ways to skin this particular cat.

    Good luck!
    David Walser
    Mesa, Arizona

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
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    Utah
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Walser View Post
    Tom -- You don't need to run a hard line (copper or otherwise) to do what you want. You can use regular air hose for everything. I suggested a hose reel simply because it allows you to get the hose where you want it and easily put it out of the way when you don't need it. If you're NOT going to use compressed air anywhere but the lathe, just run the hose along a wall or across the ceiling to the lathe. Done.

    The reason for suggesting a hard line for going through the wall is that any vibration transferred by the compressor to the hose, or by movement of the hose while you're using it, may cause the hose to rub on the concrete -- potentially causing a leak over time. (Probably a really long time.) Again, a hard line is not necessary for going through the wall. You can reduce abrasion on the air hose in a number of ways. My uncle ran an air hose through a concrete wall. The hole was oversize (and may have already been there for another reason). He wrapped the hose in rock wool insulation before stuffing it through the hole. The insulation helped reduce noise infiltration through the hole and prevented the hose from rubbing on the concrete. There are lots of other ways to skin this particular cat.

    Good luck!
    thanks for the detailed reply David. My shop will only be 14’ long so maybe I’ll just have the compressor under a bench to start and if it becomes too noisy will drill through the concrete and cover the hose to prevent wear.

    Tom

  3. #18
    If you run lines, remember that any sags in the line are potential moisture collection points. That's one reason I use copper lines and water collectors along with drip legs in the multiple shops I've plumbed air lines in over the years. I also like to incline the lines so any moisture that gets in the line will run down to the water collector. This can be very important if you do any spraying or using pneumatic tools. Water will screw up either of these things. In my shop I have a water collector about 10' out from the compressor then another at the end of each run. Also fit your compressor so you can drain it on a regular basis.
    My 2 cents.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
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    Utah
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Haus View Post
    If you run lines, remember that any sags in the line are potential moisture collection points. That's one reason I use copper lines and water collectors along with drip legs in the multiple shops I've plumbed air lines in over the years. I also like to incline the lines so any moisture that gets in the line will run down to the water collector. This can be very important if you do any spraying or using pneumatic tools. Water will screw up either of these things. In my shop I have a water collector about 10' out from the compressor then another at the end of each run. Also fit your compressor so you can drain it on a regular basis.
    My 2 cents.
    My shop is only 10 x 15’ so I think I’ll just have my compressor under a shelf with a long hose hanging above the lathe - maybe I should keep the hose disconnected from the compressor and only connect it when using (I’ve never used a compressor before when turning at home and have only really wanted it when hollowing, though I’m sure if it were available I’d use it frequently for random things).

    Thanks,
    Tom

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Strongsville OH
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    113
    These quiet air compressors are great. California has a good reputation but there are several other brands also available. Their downside is that the cfm is on the low side, but for my use they are adequate. But the noise level is so low.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Midland, MI
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    168
    Tom, another reason besides noise to locate the compressor outside your shop is to save space, i.e. not use up valuable real estate inside your shop.

    I have a similarly small basement shop, 11'x19'. I put my compressor outside the shop, ran air hose from Harbor Freight through the floor joists above the shop to a central location, punched a hole through the drywall ceiling and connected to a hose reel that's suspended from the ceiling. The hose from the reel easily reaches everywhere in the shop, and retracts out of the way when not in use.

    If you do this, be sure to mount the hose reel so it's inside the curtains you will eventually put up around the lathe to keep the wood shavings from flying everywhere in the shop when you turn green wood.

  7. #22
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    Jul 2017
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    Utah
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Bunge View Post
    Tom, another reason besides noise to locate the compressor outside your shop is to save space, i.e. not use up valuable real estate inside your shop.

    I have a similarly small basement shop, 11'x19'. I put my compressor outside the shop, ran air hose from Harbor Freight through the floor joists above the shop to a central location, punched a hole through the drywall ceiling and connected to a hose reel that's suspended from the ceiling. The hose from the reel easily reaches everywhere in the shop, and retracts out of the way when not in use.

    If you do this, be sure to mount the hose reel so it's inside the curtains you will eventually put up around the lathe to keep the wood shavings from flying everywhere in the shop when you turn green wood.
    Interesting idea Dave. How do you turn it on/off and drain it when done - just go into the neighboring room or do you have a remote switch somehow. And do you worry about water collection in the hose?

    Also, How have you hung curtains up....I have my lathe in a corner and was hoping that would be sufficient to prevent chips going everywhere but in reality it probably would still cover my entire space and I’m curious about curtains.

    Thanks,
    Tom

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Wilson80 View Post
    Interesting idea Dave. How do you turn it on/off and drain it when done - just go into the neighboring room or do you have a remote switch somehow. And do you worry about water collection in the hose?
    ...
    Tom
    Not Dave here, but when I had a compressor outside (in a dry area) at a previous shop I plugged it into a receptacle powered from a switch inside the building. I also ran the air into the shop and put a valve there. I did not drain the compressor as much as I should have, but one of the automatic or timed draining devices can take care of that. I bought one for my current shop and big compressor and one of these days I might actually install it...

    JKJ

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Midland, MI
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    168
    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Wilson80 View Post
    Interesting idea Dave. How do you turn it on/off and drain it when done - just go into the neighboring room or do you have a remote switch somehow. And do you worry about water collection in the hose?
    My compressor is right outside the door to my shop. When I want to use it, I walk outside the shop and turn it on. I have an overhead light and the compressor both plugged into a power strip. I turn on the power strip, which turns on the overhead light, then I flip the switch to start the compressor. The light reminds me to turn off the compressor at the end of the day. I don't drain it very often. I have a small California Air Tools compressor with an aluminum tank, so I don't worry about corrosion. And I'm not spraying finishes or doing anything that needs a real dry air stream, so I don't worry about it.

  10. #25
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    Jul 2017
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    Utah
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    Thanks everyone for the tips. Really appreciate it!
    Tom

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