Exterior Door with 1/2" Panels and 1/4" Glass?

[derek labian]

I recently used five of these panels...one in a door and four in fixed windows and they were pretty much spot on .5" thick which is what you indicated you needed for your fixed panels. Perhaps I'm misunderstanding something and I apologize for that.

Hi Jim,

The double pane panels are 1/2" thick, however they need to be recessed 7/16" on both sides, so an 8" wide window needs to be 8 7/8" wide. That is a real problem for center dividers in a TDL window that are only 1" wide.

[derek labian]

Hi Kevin,

You can also use stops of a different depth for the two materials.

I considered that, but I couldn't find anyone building that way, so I thought it wasn't terribly acceptable. Thanks for clarifying.

If you are in a cold winter location

I looked at the temp differential, its extreme between single pane up to double pane argon filled Low-E glass. But we are in Texas and there is no direct light. I think the Single pane laminated will be ok.

The cost is less, but the look is different.

Thank you for clarifying the look.

[derek labian]

Its a stopped cut. You would plunge the work into the cut and pull it out of the cut at a specific point

Rather than try to explain, its outlined here
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....ot-on-a-shaper

Hi Jared,

Thanks for the tip. This was very helpful (at 19min):



Seems like it could be hard to this well with an 8' rail but it's certainly an option. Thank you!

[Kevin Jenness]

If you do a stopped cut starting in the middle of a workpiece it is a good idea to have a fence extension with a stop for the heel of the piece to forestall kickback.

[Jim Becker]

Hi Jim,

The double pane panels are 1/2" thick, however they need to be recessed 7/16" on both sides, so an 8" wide window needs to be 8 7/8" wide. That is a real problem for center dividers in a TDL window that are only 1" wide.

I did applied grids...one pane of glass for the entire width required for the door (and windows).

[lowell holmes]

Just a thought.
When facing an issue like this, I experiment with scrap wood. After two or three tries, I know what to do.

[derek labian]

Thanks Kevin & Lowell.

[lowell holmes]

Also, consider using high strength glass.

https://www.google.com/search?q=high...hrome&ie=UTF-8

[Bradley Gray]

Resource Conservation sells self adhesive foam for mounting glass that compresses to 1/8".

Mount glass between 2 strips and you have 1/2".

[Kevin Jenness]

Also, consider using high strength glass.

https://www.google.com/search?q=high...hrome&ie=UTF-8

Lowell makes a good point, although you shouldn't just consider using tempered or laminated glass- it's required by code.

[derek labian]

To wrap up this thread, I finished the doors some time ago, just haven't had time to circle back. Thank you for all the help with questions I had in making these doors.

After a lot of research and design, I ended up going with SIPO dominos for the joinery for both rails/styles and muntins and mullions. (https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....-an-Entry-Door)

The white oak that warped (another thread) never did straiten out. I had to start over with two other pieces.

I also decided on 1/4" security glass. 24 panes, 22 rectangles and 2 architectural.

I used a poor sealer and marine spar varnish (clear).

Here are some pics of the final product. I included my plan for anyone interested.

Front Door.jpeg. IMG_8240.jpg IMG_8031.jpg IMG_8009.jpg