Buying First Turning Tools (set advice and/or individual)

[John K Jordan]

... I will say that I never think "I wish I had a smaller scraper" ...

Might depend on the use. I have some specially ground NRS that are 1/4" and one that is 1/8". These I use for special purposes such as small detail in end grain on the bottoms or lids or boxes. With the right wood the finish off the tool is like glass.

JKJ

[Allen Mattsen]

I've added a few tool rests to my 12/16 setup. I have the Robust 12" and 9" J-rest. I also have the Oneway 12" curved tool rest for bowls. I also plan on getting the D-way 13" offset for additional reach from the side.

I like the 12" Robust for longer spindles as well as for some bowl turning. I don't use the J rest as much as I thought I would for bowl interiors, but it does come in handy sometimes, though I feel like I have to constantly adjust it. The Oneway curved tool rest is fairly new to me - overall I like it for reaching around larger bowls more easily, but bowl interiors I still have to fiddle around with it a bit, and it does induce vibrations when it is supporting the bowl gouge all the way at the end, but this could also be due to the banjo not holding it as solidly as possible.

Tool rest purchases will really depend on what kind of turning you want to do. If you want to do even smaller things, Robust has a 4" as well, I believe

I've heard good things about Steve Sinner's tool rests, but I believe you have to call in to order, so I haven't tried one of his.

Before you order a tool rest, make sure the post is of the correct diameter and length for the 12/16, and that the distance from the top of the post to the top of the tool rest is also appropriate. If I remember correctly, for the 12/16, you can't use the full height Robust tool rests, you need the shorter one from the tool post top to the tool rest top, if that makes sense.

I definitely need a tool rest for bowls. Doing a deeper one today (for me) it's tough to get the interior cuts done smoothly with my stock rest.

Anyone have specifics for bowl rests for the Laguna 1216?

I got a hold of a 8" Robo Hippy rest through my club but it's too tall to fit over the bed ways and stay at correct height. I'm thinking of taking it to a shop if some kind to have it cut down shorter. Is that a bad idea? I think it might fit as is if I were to do outboard turning on this lathe as there is a height extension knuckle but I'm already deciding if I want to continue investing in this machine or upgrade to full sized lathe ��.

Is the Laguna 1216 considered a 12 or 16" lathe with regards to Robust tool rest sizing?

[Reed Gray]

Allen, you can make the post shorter, not too difficult. Making it longer, if you ever step up to a bigger lathe is not as easy... I am expecting to see them back on the market this year. All parts and pieces were given to some one who said, 'some time after the first quarter of this year'. Stay tuned...

robo hippy

[Allen Mattsen]

Allen, you can make the post shorter, not too difficult. Making it longer, if you ever step up to a bigger lathe is not as easy... I am expecting to see them back on the market this year. All parts and pieces were given to some one who said, 'some time after the first quarter of this year'. Stay tuned...

robo hippy

Great news! Any chance of a Robo Rest grinder platform? I'd love one of those!

[Reed Gray]

Uggh!!!!! I really do not like the way responses to threads are done on this forum..... No order to it, and those 'more replies below current depth' is probably the worst of it. Makes it very difficult, at least for me to find anything or to find new responses. It is like they are trying to hide things. Does it bother any one else like it does me?

Anyway, Allen, my grinder platforms have also been given to some one to manufacture again. "Some time after the end of the first quarter of this year". Can't tell you who yet...

For bottom of the bowl gouges, I have a number of them. Any parabolic or U or half round flute will work excellently. I always grind them to a ) shape nose, so just a little sweep to it, and a 70 degree bevel, which will get me through the tightest transitions I do. I have a couple of spindle detail type gouges that have also been ground that way. They are great for taking a 1/4 inch wide shaving. I like the Thompson fluteless gouge, which is good for taking at max a 1/8 inch wide shaving. The advantage of these tools is that I can stand them on edge and get a higher shear/slice angle for a cleaner cut. Easier to do it with these than the deeper fluted gouges.

I think it was on this thread where there was a comment about which is better, the Thompson V10 or the D Way M42. I can't tell any difference in edge holding, finest/sharpest edge or cleanest cuts. I have a friend who turned myrtlewood trays for the Oregon Coast shops, some thing like 700/year for almost 30 years. He could give you a weather forecast based on how his myrtlewood was cutting. He couldn't tell any difference. I heard Stuart Batty comment some thing like 'with the V10, there is no reason to go to M42'. I don't agree with that at all....

For cleanest cuts, most of the time with gouges it isn't necessary to hone the edge. Some times honing, as well as sharpening on a 600 grit wheel can make a big difference. I think all skews should be honed on a strop, not just diamond hones which only go to 1000 grit. There is still a burr. Learning to hone made me dust off my old Tormek. It does have a side wheel for rounded shapes, cove and bead... I was turning some really soft silver maple a few days ago, and the 40/40 was doing an okay job. Used the leather wheel on the inside and outside of the flutes, and that did a better job. Good enough so that I can sand it down without having to leave dents in the wood.

robo hippy

[John K Jordan]

Uggh!!!!! I really do not like the way responses to threads are done on this forum..... No order to it, and those 'more replies below current depth' is probably the worst of it. Makes it very difficult, at least for me to find anything or to find new responses. It is like they are trying to hide things. Does it bother any one else like it does me?

I don't like it either. Some people use the Linear, Most Recent First viewing options (settings, general) but I have a harder time following the threads that way - much of the time I can't guess what or who a message is a reply to since many people don't use the simple Reply with Quote feature. So I use the Hybrid mode and suffer through the long threads. It is so much easier when threads are short.

I always click the button that shows the most recent post to a thread, but without digging it's easy to miss several previous new posts. Truth be known, I often give up and I'm getting to the point I don't care if I miss something!

JKJ

[Thomas Wilson80]

I don't like it either. Some people use the Linear, Most Recent First viewing options (settings, general) but I have a harder time following the threads that way - much of the time I can't guess what or who a message is a reply to since many people don't use the simple Reply with Quote feature. So I use the Hybrid mode and suffer through the long threads. It is so much easier when threads are short.

I always click the button that shows the most recent post to a thread, but without digging it's easy to miss several previous new posts. Truth be known, I often give up and I'm getting to the point I don't care if I miss something!

JKJ

I find it very helpful to navigate using the “first unread post” button (settings are linear threads with oldest first). Before I realized there was a “first unread button” it was somewhat cumbersome.

This forum has been so so helpful to me as a new turner. I’m very grateful for everyone’s posts and willingness to answer questions!
Tom

[John K Jordan]

I find it very helpful to navigate using the “first unread post” button (settings are linear threads with oldest first). Before I realized there was a “first unread button” it was somewhat cumbersome.

Me too. Then I usually scroll up in the thread tree to find that message (in bold text) and see if there are any "next to last" messages I missed. Still a pain but not too bad. If I were king it might have some enhancements.

I'm glad you are enjoying the forum! There is not much I like better than answering questions and sharing ideas (about things within my experience!)

JKJ

[Allen Mattsen]

For those following along my next purchase was a 1-5/16 NRS (negative rake scraper) and a 1/2" bottom bowl gouge from D-Way. Quick shipping and great tools. Very pleased with D-Way tools. Nearly got the 1" round nose NRS, too but wanted to see what I had in my starter set version after my sharpening gear arrived. Also eyeballing the box master flat bottom box (double-ended) tool but held off for now.

Likely, I'll pick up a quality parting tool eventually, and a 5/8" bowl gouge but I'm kinda holding off on the 5/8 gouges while I learn the 3/8 and 1/2 sizes and decide on how to proceed (and how soon) I'm going to buy a full sized lathe. I'm interested to have another 1/2 bowl gouge with a different grind or flute shape. Have looked at the Jameson, but (trying to) be patient while I hone in on what I enjoy doing and what features I need vs want. I'll post more on that in another thread. 😅

Great feedback in this thread - I'm appreciative for all the help so far.

I've been turning lots of bowls and have found that to be fantastic! I really love turning bowls! I also plan to do more boxes and some entry level type hollow forms once I have the tooling. That said: bowls are where it's at!

I'm more and more interested in the Hunter tools but it's tough to figure out which tools do what the best despite lots of reading about them and limited video content out there on them. Anyone who uses them: sharing your Hunter tools experiences would be great.

Also, I'd like a J-Rest or other curved or bowl rest to allow me to get closer to the work. I may modify the 8" Robo rest I have, as it's a 1" post and a larger lathe will almost certainly be 1-1/4 post. I think I can get a machine shop to hack a couple inches off of it or something.

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[John K Jordan]

...
I'm more and more interested in the Hunter tools but it's tough to figure out which tools do what the best despite lots of reading about them and limited video content out there on them. Anyone who uses them: sharing your Hunter tools experiences would be great.
...

I have most if not all of the Hunter tools here (except for those I didn't use as much and gave away) and it's hard to say what tools always do what particular thing best. I switch tools as needed. I'm known to make cuts with several different tools as I remove wood, sometimes practicing finishing cuts long before I'm at the point where I am actually making the finishing cuts. This lets me see how that tool works with that piece of wood in that situation.

One thing: I almost always turn dry wood since turning green wood is so easy I'm bored with it AND I no longer enjoy turning twice AND I've turned enough big bowls for my lifetime. For bowls and platters from dry wood I tend to use the Hunter Hercules instead of a bowl gouge. You can get beautiful surfaces with both but the two behave a bit differently in one respect - for some cuts the bowl gouge directs hot chips up the flute towards my hand which can be painful unless wearing a glove. The Hunter Hercules deflects the chips more to the side so they don't hit my hand. Also I don't have to stop and sharpen the Hunter tool occasionally as I do with the bowl gouge.

I'll use the Hercules a lot for shaping some spindles too but not for the detail I can get from a skew chisel or spindle gouge, shallow spindle gouge, or spindle detail gouge. The Hunter 5/8" spindle roughing gouge is my favorite for small work.

Some of the tools are better for hollowing inside a box or vase or something with a smaller opening. One of Mikes sets of three smaller tools is the best I know of for small hollow forms and boxes with small openings. This is the set that Mark StLeger designed. There are equivalent larger tools for larger work but I don't think they are sold as a set.

JKJ

[Allen Mattsen]

So as far as the individual turning tool purchases, this is where I think it is really hard to get out of our own heads. Some turners specialize in finials, so their tooling is catered to that, while others do bowls with traditional gouges and have a good selection there, and others do bowls with scrapers, so they have multiples of those. Some try to be able to do a bit of everything, so have more generalized tools.

I think this is where your own practice, experience, and preferences will come much more into play.

As far as quality manufacturers, there are three that are fairly popular: D-Way, Thompson, Carter and sons. I personally started buying D-Way as my nice tooling, and was so happy with them, that I haven't ventured far. I do have plans to try out some Thompson tools in the future though.

If you want to be able to do small boxes easily, I have been eyeing the boxmaster tools at D-Way. I haven't bought any, but they are on my short list to get in the future, and most are double ended, which makes it really convenient to get two different but related tools on the same piece of steel. This is the one I plan on getting: https://d-waytools.com/5-8-double-en...ttom-box-tool/

Here is my current inventory of unhandled tools (most being D-way):


I have a separate drawer for the handles:


For me, the first D-way tools I bought were the 5/8" bowl gouge, spindle roughing gouge, 3/8" spindle gouge, 1 inch skew, and the round nosed negative rake scraper. This gave me some good tools for general use. The second order was when I added the 5/8" bottom feeder bowl gouge, 1/2" spindle, beading tools (I wanted to try them out, they are more of a specialty use, but they work great), parting tool, and the other negative rake scrapers (straight spear point, and curved).

If you want a bowl gouge with a handle already, then the Ellsworth signature gouge made by crown is an great gouge, and I use mine often in addition to the d-way bowl gouge. If you really get into bowls, you may accumulate a whole bevy of bowl gouges with different grinds and flute profiles.

If you get more into finials and the like, look up Cindy Drozda, she has contracted with some manufacturers (I want to say Thompson for many of them) for her specific grinds and profiles.

So I think the biggest thing is for you to get comfortable with your lathe, and try out some different kinds of turnings, and then when you decide that you want to get more into a specific type of turning, buy the tools that are best suited for that. You will most likely also have preferences ebb and wane, so you may end up with a whole bunch of tools of every which kind after a decade of turning, and appreciate each and every one of them!

As a quick personal example: I started with making pens, and did that for a long time, then did some one off random projects, then getting into cups and small bowls. I did this all with Easy Wood Tools for many years. When I decided to try larger bowls, I realized that the easy wood tools weren't the best suited tool, and that is when I decided to get traditional tools and learn how to sharpen, and then once I felt comfortable, I later bought the D-way tools. At one point I wanted to get into hollow vessels, which meant that I needed additional tools as well, so I got the #3 Easy wood tools swan neck hollower, and then also added the Hunter Carbide Badger tools for hollow vessels. I'll probably want to try some finials later, and will most likely get some more specialty spindle gouges to do that. I find it fun to try new types of turnings, and to make a whole bunch of mistakes, and then see my progress over time.

I hope this helps at least a bit!

Which Hunter tools are in the far left (top photo)?

I want to get a couple Hunter tools to hollow boxes and begin trying some hollow forms. I've looked at getting the #4 Hunter tool for starters.

Has anyone tried the "Adjuster" tool?

I want to have a good bit of versatility whatever I begin with and don't want to get tools that end up being too small as I'm not into fine, detailed ornaments etc. I'm excited to try these cupped cutters. All my other tools so far are traditional. Forstener bits only get me so far and with a specific result. Need some hollowing tools 😃

[John K Jordan]

Which Hunter tools are in the far left (top photo)?

I want to get a couple Hunter tools to hollow boxes and begin trying some hollow forms. I've looked at getting the #4 Hunter tool for starters.

Has anyone tried the "Adjuster" tool?

I want to have a good bit of versatility whatever I begin with and don't want to get tools that end up being too small as I'm not into fine, detailed ornaments etc. I'm excited to try these cupped cutters. All my other tools so far are traditional. Forstener bits only get me so far and with a specific result. Need some hollowing tools 😃

I've tried both the small and large Adjuster tools. I kept the small one, nice for my use. For small boxes and forms I do like the "Small Tapered 3 Piece Set". Based on what you said, this set is probably not for you.

BTW, the large one at the left in Melvin's first photo looks like the #5, now called the Badger #5, with the Badger #5 swan neck next to it. I have these plus the reverse swan neck. These are very stout tools. 5/8" shafts. I haven't used the reverse yet but have used the others quite a bit. I think I mentioned this before but my favorite Hunter tool for bowls and platters is the Hercules, used just like a bowl gouge. I use the small Hercules more than the large.

If you can, visit someone who has all the Hunter tools so you can try before you buy.

JKJ

[Allen Mattsen]

I went ahead and ordered the #5 Badger tool and a Jimmy Clewes box scraper. Probably will order the swan neck version of the Badger tool. I can plug the Badger into the 5/8" D-Way handle I have. I'll give those a shot and see what's next. Probably a swan neck tool also. I definitely want to begin some hollowing and want to see how I enjoy the Hunter tools before going too crazy. I still ha E a new lathe to order (soon!). I'm having a blast doing a lot of bowls and learning primarily the 1/2 bowl and bottom feeder gouges and 1-5/16" NRS. Excellent tools and I'm happy with all the choices I've made so far. Slow and steady wins the race...