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Thread: Using a "kugihiki" saw - tips?

  1. #1
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    Using a "kugihiki" saw - tips?

    I hope this is the right place to post my question, I use a combo of hand and power tools in my work and I'm still inexperienced with a lot of the hand stuff in particular. THus my question.

    I have what I believe is a "kugihiki" saw, which I understand is constructed without set to the teeth, so it should be good for flush cutting dowels, etc - correct? I just tried cutting off some dowels, once again I got major gouges int the surrounding wood. I am wondering if it is my technique - I am NOT very coordinated, so my technique is my first suspicion.

    I'm including pics of the saw so folks here can hopefully tell me if this is really the no-set type of blade. Thanks for any advice!

    Marty
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    "Never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by stupidity" - anon

  2. #2
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    It might be worthwhile to use a playing card as a barrier, where the tooth line meets the wood face you want to protect.

  3. #3
    Take the saw and hold the blade down flat on some scrap. While holding it down flat, stroke the saw and see if it scratches the wood. If it does, the saw has set.

    The flush cutting saw I have has set on one side and that side had printing on it that says something like "This side up when cutting."

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  4. #4
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    Marty, Here are some of the techniques used for flush cutting dowels on my work:

    Sawing the Dowels.jpg

    With a no set saw the fingers of one hand are held on the saw so the back of the saw can not rise and cause the teeth to hit he surface.

    With a chisel:

    Pairing the Dowels.jpg

    The chisel has to be very sharp and preferably at a low angle on the bevel. The chisel is held flat on the work surface.

    Sometimes my dowels are trimmed proud:

    Finished Trim.jpg

    A hole to fit the dowel is drilled in a thin piece of scrap. A chisel is held against the side of the dowel, bevel down, pushed in to the dowel and the edge levered up at the same time making a three pointed star. This can be done with as many points as one prefers.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Matthews View Post
    It might be worthwhile to use a playing card as a barrier, where the tooth line meets the wood face you want to protect.
    Thanks for the tip, Jim - you might find Mike's note below interesting.

    Marty
    "Never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by stupidity" - anon

  6. #6
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    Thank you, Jim! I appreciate the insights and especially photos!

    Marty
    "Never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by stupidity" - anon

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Henderson View Post
    Take the saw and hold the blade down flat on some scrap. While holding it down flat, stroke the saw and see if it scratches the wood. If it does, the saw has set.

    The flush cutting saw I have has set on one side and that side had printing on it that says something like "This side up when cutting."

    Mike
    This! Thanks, Mike! After posting my dilemma, and still thinking it was my technique, I went out to the shop and started practicing on some scrap. Just as you noted - I randomly flipped the saw over for a better angle on one of my practice cuts and - problem solved! My saw now has a similar note "tattooed" onto the set side of the blade with an indelible (?) marker.
    "Never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by stupidity" - anon

  8. #8
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    Poke an index card over the dowel and saw away. If you want it, absolute dead flush is achieved with a paring chisel. The index card method will leave a very little bit of the dowel protruding, a look that I tend to like.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Charles Guest View Post
    Poke an index card over the dowel and saw away. If you want it, absolute dead flush is achieved with a paring chisel.
    A cranked-neck chisel can be helpful here, in general.

  10. #10
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    My earlier post forgot to include when using a chisel it is helpful to work from all around the dowel.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Dawson View Post
    A cranked-neck chisel can be helpful here, in general.
    I need to get me some of those! Always one more tool on the list...

    Thanks!

    Marty
    "Never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by stupidity" - anon

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Dawson View Post
    A cranked-neck chisel can be helpful here, in general.
    Yes, for sure. But if you don't have one and the dowel isn't near the edge, score the dowel deeply all the way around with a regular bench chisel held bevel down and then plane it flush in a circular motion with a very finely set smoothing plane. Finish with a long stroke or two with the grain of course. If you've used the index card there won't be much to plane off. If you've used a special saw with no set, or set in one direction only, then less even still if not already functionally flush just needing a slight bit of cleanup.

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