Riving Knife - How Important is it?

[peter lent]

I am (still) in the market for a table saw for my project of re-building my shop. My old table saw was a Ridgid 3612 and did not have a riving knife.

I am looking at a sub $700 budget for the table saw, so that leaves me a few options. A new Ridgid TS4520, new Delta 36-725T2 or buying a used TS. I have ruled out buying a JobSite saw (thanks for the feedback). I am a part time hobby WW, mainly doing house projects, shop projects, and making signs and cutting boards.

Most of the used TS I am looking at do NOT have a built in Riving Knife. As I get older, I want to ensure I am as safe as possible. I would love to buy a SS, but the budget is not there.

I know I can install a splitter, but that is not the same as a riving knife.

WWYD?

Thanks!

[Michael Drew]

I don't think splinters that tilt with the blade can be added, can they?

Personally, I'd take a good riving knife set up over any of the aftermarket anti-kickback devices you can buy. And yes, I probably own one of each.....include the Jessem fence mounted rollers. My next saw will most definitely have a riving knife.

[peter lent]

I don't think splinters that tilt with the blade can be added, can they?

Personally, I'd take a good riving knife set up over any of the aftermarket anti-kickback devices you can buy. And yes, I probably own one of each.....include the Jessem fence mounted rollers. My next saw will most definitely have a riving knife.

NO, I am not aware of any aftermarket Splitter jigs that will accomodate tilt.

[Robert Engel]

With our budget I wouldn't pass on a good used saw just b/c it doesn't have a riving knife.

Splitters work. I have microjig on both my saws, but you can also make them. They don't tilt, but that's <5% of what you do on a ts.

[Alan Schwabacher]

As long as you make sure it's there, a splitter works well. An older Delta saw like the 34-444 will let the splitter tilt with the blade. It just won't go up and down with the blade as a riving knife does.

[Larry Wilson]

Once you have had a kickback you'll understand how crucial a riving knife is for safety. I left mine off one time and proceeded to cut a bunch of plywood. Next thing I know there was a piece launched at my stomach. Big welt and major owie! Make sure the saw you buy has one. If you don't, you might reget it someday.

[roger wiegand]

Last I checked the Biesemeyer splitter on my PM66 tilts along with the blade. It doesn't go up and down with the blade so you do have to pop it off if you're not cutting all the way through your board, and the anti-kickback pawls hit the table when you tilt it too far. You can also bend it by tilting the blade with a zero clearance insert in place . So, not perfect, but all in all a really good solution for a saw that didn't originally come with a riving knife. I'm not sure whether a similar product is still sold. I'm happy to have mine.

[peter lent]

The desire for a true/real Riving knife is one of the reasons I first considered a job site style saw with the budget I have. I really like the Dewalts DWE7491 and the Riving knife, but it is still a job site saw :-)

What to do, what to do....

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Peter, I have a Ridgid TS-3650 which has a stock "spitter" as part of the blade guard. One day ripping some white oak, I watched the oak pinch on the splitter and it made me grateful for splitters and riving knives! I can only imagine how hard that would come back into my body as quickly and as stiffly it was pinching that splitter! IF I ever have need to replace this saw, it's replacement will have a riving knife. BTW, I only remove my blade guard and thus the attached splitter when I am doing "non-through" cuts, an example of which would be using my dado set.

[David Stone (CT)]

What to do, what to do....

If I were you, I would look for a used Unisaw or other cabinet saw that is compatible with an aftermarket splitter like what Shark Guard sells, which you can buy and add separately.

I hear you on the desire to work safely:When I got started, basically nobody in hobby/craft woodworking used a splitter or riving knife (check out 1980s/1990s-era issues of Fine Woodworking to see what I mean), because the factory-supplied splitters were poorly-executed, a hassle to take on and off and attached to clunky guards that were borderline unusable, and the riving knife design did not exist on saws accessible to hobbyists. About 25 years ago, I realized I was tempting fate and being stupid, and bought an aftermarket splitter for the Delta contractor saw I had at the time. That worked well and I would never use a saw that did not have a splitter or riving knife installed now, even though that was the normal state of affairs when I learned.

As others have mentioned, the internal design of these older cabinet and contractor saws means that a splitter inherently sticks up above the blade and therefore must be removed for non-through cuts or (typically) use of a cross-cut sled, then put back for rips. The aftermarket ones, like the Biesemeyer I had or I assume the Shark Guard, have a good quick-release design that makes this on-and-off quick and easy and therefore feasible, whereas it was not with the OEM splitter/guard that came with the saw back in the bad old days. The riving knife design is definitely better and more practical still, in that that top of the riving knife can sit a hair below the top of the blade, meaning it never has to come off and therefore there's not a temptation to operate without it... but the functionality is similar and anyway I seriously doubt you are going to find a used saw with a riving knife in your price range.

[David Stone (CT)]

What to do, what to do....

If I were you, I would look for a used Unisaw or other cabinet saw that is compatible with an aftermarket splitter like what Shark Guard sells, which you can buy and add separately.

I hear you on the desire to work safely:When I got started, basically nobody in hobby/craft woodworking used a splitter or riving knife (check out 1980s/1990s-era issues of Fine Woodworking to see what I mean), because the factory-supplied splitters were poorly-executed, a hassle to take on and off and attached to clunky guards that were borderline unusable, and the riving knife design did not exist on saws accessible to hobbyists. About 25 years ago, I realized I was tempting fate and being stupid, and bought an aftermarket splitter for the Delta contractor saw I had at the time. That worked well and I would never use a saw that did not have a splitter or riving knife now, even though that was the normal state of affairs when I learned.

As others have mentioned, the internal design of these older cabinet and contractor saws means that a splitter inherently sticks up above the blade and therefore must be removed for non-through cuts or use of a cross-cut sled, then put back for rips. The aftermarket ones, like the Biesemeyer I had or I assume the Shark Guard, have a good quick-release design that makes this on-and-off feasible, whereas it was not with the OEM splitter/guard that came with the saw back in the bad old days. The riving knife design is better and more practical still, in that it never has to come off and therefore there's not a temptation to operate without it... but the functionality is similar and anyway I seriously doubt you are going to find a used saw with a riving knife in your price range.

[Mike Henderson]

It's only newer saws that have true riving knives. If you feel strongly that you want a true riving knife, you may have to go with a jobsite saw.

But splitters also work. They're not as good as a riving knife because you have to remove them for certain types of cuts but you CAN use them for the vase majority of cuts.

At your price range, I'd buy used and make sure you can put a good splitter on your saw. Maybe in the future you'll be able to purchase a SS.

Mike

[Also, indicate your location. Someone may have a saw they could sell you.]

[glenn bradley]

The desire for a true/real Riving knife is one of the reasons I first considered a job site style saw with the budget I have. I really like the Dewalts DWE7491 and the Riving knife, but it is still a job site saw :-)

What to do, what to do....

I feel reasonably safe with a splitter in place. Certainly a riving knife that stays a set amount of distance from the blade is better. My Saw Stop has an RK, my hybrid does not. I am just as careful on either saw ;-) I would feel fine with a better quality used saw than with a shiny new cheap-o saw. The current requirement for riving knives on tablesaws is a little light on specs. The RK's I've seen on jobsite saws wouldn't stop much if things went sideways.

[peter lent]

Thanks for the feedback. I have found a couple used Ridgid 4512/4520 in my area for sale for around $500, and they include a true Riving Knife. I think I would prefer a used Ridgid over the new Delta, just due to all the motor issues with the Delta.

I am located in So Cal (Temecula)

Thanks!

It's only newer saws that have true riving knives. If you feel strongly that you want a true riving knife, you may have to go with a jobsite saw.

But splitters also work. They're not as good as a riving knife because you have to remove them for certain types of cuts but you CAN use them for the vase majority of cuts.

At your price range, I'd buy used and make sure you can put a good splitter on your saw. Maybe in the future you'll be able to purchase a SS.

Mike

[Also, indicate your location. Someone may have a saw they could sell you.]

[Michael Drew]

I have a mid 90's Unisaw. I had a Rigid contractor's saw before that. The Rigid was a descent saw, but the cabinet saw is so much nicer.... David Stone's comments reminded me why I installed the Biesemeyer splitter. The guard was a PITA to use, so I pitched it into the dumpster. It didn't take long before I installed the splitter though. A couple kickbacks with a 3HP saw will wake you up and drive the need to prevent that act of violence from occurring again, real quick. The Biesemeyer splitter is pretty convenient, and it tilts with the blade, but it does not raise/lower. It just snaps into place, but you have to remove the blade insert to release it. It also has hanging paws as an extra anti-kickback device. They don't work work a crap with the blade tilted, or if ripping narrow pieces. I ended up cutting them off..... Feather boards are helpful, but do not work as well as the splitter. I dunno.....I empathize with your predicament, but if you can find a used cabinet saw with a riving knife set up, I'd go that route over your other options. Even if you have to move your budget upwards a bit. I bet you can find something in the $1000 range, if willing to spend a day driving to get it.