Shaker style cabinet doors mdf or solid wood?

[Tyler Werre]

Hello, so I know this question has been asked a lot, and I would like your advice as to what you guys do when making shaker style cabinet doors. I have as kitchen job I’m just getting started and it will be a knotty alder with a darker stain. Originally I had planned on doing a 1/4″ mdf veneer center panel. But I know how light the doors feel when opening and closing them. Then I started to consider doing the solid panel and reversing the cove to make the fronts flat. But then you have the expansion and contraction that comes with the solid wood. I will stain the panels before I glue up the door, but I’m still worried if the panel contracts you will see the finishing line on the door. At least that’s what happened in my kitchen when the raised panels started to shrink. Then I have also read some people using 3/8″ mdf veneer to get the more solid feel. I did like that option, however I was wondering how to go about doing that. Do you get a 3/8″ cutter, or cut the back of the panel. And if you cut the back of the panel will you see that it is mdf? Thanks for any advice you guys can give me

[roger wiegand]

The Shakers would have used solid wood with reversed coves or possibly plywood if they had it. I don't think MDF would have made the cut for them. Pre-finish the panels prior to installing them in the frames and you will have no worries about movement.

[Jamie Buxton]

For me, a big advantage of a plywood or mdf panel is that I can glue it in place. It is then is a great big gusset reinforcing the corner joinery. It also does not rattle. So it is a more solid door than one with a solid-wood panel.

The only reason to use solid lumber for the panel is if you have to make a raised panel. Then you're stuck.

[John Goodin]

We have shaker style cabinets with solid wood panels built by a quality cabinet company. No shrinkage issues so far but wood movement seems to be less of an issue in central Texas than in places that actually have seasons. So for me I would go solid. Then again I like matching grains and edge gluing boards together trying to hide the joint.
I like the idea of a 3/8”ish ply over veneered MDF. Even if it were a full 3/8” thick using 15/16” face frame stock still gives 1/4” depth on front of the frame and 3/16” on the back.