Adding window to interior door - will this work?

[Brian Tymchak]

Might be easier to set up a wireless security camera inside and she can monitor you from her computer or phone. Or put a wired camera inside and a cheap monitor outside.

Don't really want to be monitored from afar.... Was just wanting her to see when safe to enter and and not surprise me.

[John K Jordan]

Don't really want to be monitored from afar.... Was just wanting her to see when safe to enter and and not surprise me.

That was the point of my second comment, to consider a wired camera inside and a monitor outside the shop. Could be next to the door like an electronic window. Would require a tiny little hole in the wall instead of modifying a door.

[Jim Becker]

You can do the work on a cope and stick door...it's messy and "not fun" but the molded in profile can be routed away and replaced with similar discrete molding after the glass is sized and inserted. Don't make the molding before you have the glass, however, as the glass is likely thinner than the original panel and that will have to be compensated for with the replacement moldings. Also, only put the molding in with something like pin-nails. No glue. That's just in case someone throws a brick through the glass and you, know...it needs replaced... I'd opt for tempered glass, too. More expensive, but less prone to breaking and if it does break, it will be tiny pieces rather than big, sharp shards.

[Brian Tymchak]

Quick follow up question - when you install the plexi pane in the frame, what are you guys using to keep the pane from rattling when the door closes? I'm thinking 2 or 3 small dabs of silicone adhesive in the rabbet along each side of the pane would do it. Is that sufficient or is there a better way?

Thanks!

[Jim Becker]

Whether you use Plexiglass or Lexan or real glass, it's not a bad idea to do as you say to dampen things for rattle. It could be the adhesive as you state (but be very careful not to get it on any areas that will be painted) or other kinds of foam "things" common for panel installation.

[Alex Zeller]

Any glass shop (not Lowes) will have double sided sticky foam tape designed for this application. To get around Jim's point that the glass could be thinner than the raised panel you can buy glass in thicknesses from 1/16" to 1/4". However 1/16" glass will not be safety glass so I would advise against using it. Since the glass isn't going to be huge the extra cost of the thicker glass isn't going to add too much to the price. People do use clear silicone all the time as well as glazing putty. 1/8" glass with 1/16" thick foam tape on each side (or just 1/8" on one side) would probably equal the thickness of the raised panel.

If you do use a router I would do it in multiple passes. Most of the wood doors I've seen at the B&Ms look like they would splinter pretty easily.

[vince dale]

Check your local glass shop for glazing tape. They should carry a variety of thicknesses and widths and maybe colours. A recent project with glass panel doors I used 1/16th thick foam tape. Worked good. If you can find double sided tape in the right width that would work too. I think 3M has a clear version.

Quick follow up question - when you install the plexi pane in the frame, what are you guys using to keep the pane from rattling when the door closes? I'm thinking 2 or 3 small dabs of silicone adhesive in the rabbet along each side of the pane would do it. Is that sufficient or is there a better way?

Thanks!

[Brian Tymchak]

Want to thank everyone who contributed on this thread. With the advice you all have provided I feel pretty confident I can do this.

So, off to buy doors this weekend (well, pending the snowstorm).

[Bruce Wrenn]

Any glass used in or near a door has to be either safety, or tempered.