Adding window to interior door - will this work?

[Mel Fulks]

I think putting the glass in the middle panel place looks better. Yes, I know you might not have seen that. But you can
see through that! And light comes in through it! Makes the door look taller and more solid. The small top glass makes
the door " more shorterer"! Hard to see thru it unless you are tall. There are laws against not letting women look out
windows! And glass in middle gives them a way to curtain it and slide it aside to look out.

[Mel Fulks]

I don't like the steel doors as they lack crisp detail. But they are fine for back of house.

[Adam Herman]

I think putting the glass in the middle panel place looks better. Yes, I know you might not have seen that. But you can
see through that! And light comes in through it! Makes the door look taller and more solid. The small top glass makes
the door " more shorterer"! Hard to see thru it unless you are tall. There are laws against not letting women look out
windows! And glass in middle gives them a way to curtain it and slide it aside to look out.

usually a 1/2 lite is the middle and top panels replaced with glass, leaving the 2 bottom panels on a 6 panel door.

[John C Bush]

I've done a couple of doors like that and it worked OK. Remove the panels--I used a skill saw and finished with a hand saw--used a router and a straight edge guide to straighten the window "frame"--cut and nailed in trim for glass stops--used safety/laminated glass--and held in with other trim. They were for casual interior doors similar to your application. The spackled and painted OK and work just fine.
We have a "Door Store" here that sells seconds and price was just right.Good luck.

[Tom M King]

Those doors are heavy "veneer" over finger jointed frames. The frame should be plenty strong enough to cut out the parts between the stiles, and rails for what you want to do.

Using a 3' version of that same door, I just recently made a Dutch door, for inside the dog area in our house, by cutting the lock rail horizontally, and it has remained stable.

[Mel Fulks]

Thanks Adam. I made custom doors for a long time. Some of the ones drawn up by architects were really goofy. I had to
bail them out many times. And I just don't believe that non custom doors should be expected to be beyond improvement.
"Usually " is just a vote for conformity. Small lites at top do 2 things : block sun light and exclude women from being able
to look out on the day.

[Adam Herman]

Thanks Adam. I made custom doors for a long time. Some of the ones drawn up by architects were really goofy. I had to
bail them out many times. And I just don't believe that non custom doors should be expected to be beyond improvement.
"Usually " is just a vote for conformity. Small lites at top do 2 things : block sun light and exclude women from being able
to look out on the day.

nothing is beyond improvement. just trying to keep it clear and simple for the OP who is less experienced in these things than you are.

[Dave Zellers]

Also- there is no need to remove the shaped edge on both sides, only one. After you remove the 4 panels and the two frame members, cut away the shaped edge one one side and you will have the rabbet needed for the plexi. Apply new roundover trim, done!

[Adam Herman]

Also- there is no need to remove the shaped edge on both sides, only one. After you remove the 4 panels and the two frame members, cut away the shaped edge one one side and you will have the rabbet needed for the plexi. Apply new roundover trim, done!

you will have flat spots where the center rail and top rail are, if you are going for a half lite. could do just the panels like you mention though.

[Mel Fulks]

I did not read Op's post well. I'm sorry. Missed the basement part. Sorry. Will read more better!....pledging to read
twice before posting about anything.

[Alex Zeller]

I think what i would do is use a router with a straight bit and bushing to remove one side of the detail. You would then need to square up the corners. Basically you would go from the left picture to the right picture. After that the raised panel should be able to be removed. You'll probably need to make a square template for the router to follow out of thin plywood as well as make a stop to hold the glass in place.

router.jpg

[Dave Zellers]

you will have flat spots where the center rail and top rail are, if you are going for a half lite. could do just the panels like you mention though.

No the outside permitter shaping is continuous, the inside frame members are coped to fit as Alex shows.

[Bill Dufour]

Hi Bill,

Are you meaning a traditional transom at the top of the door, or something else? My purpose for the window is for my wife to be able to see me in the shop without opening the door.

Thanks.

My Elementary and Jr. High school, built in the early 1950's, both had glass transom windows above the door frame. Some might have opened for ventilation. I think the old building in the high school did also. It would help only if the lights are on whenever you are in the shop.
Bill D

[Jim Becker]

I've done it for cabinet doors for a client, so it should work just fine doing it with a pre-hung door. It's a pain to remove the moldings cleanly, but once they are gone, it should be possible to remove the panel and replace with glass, etc.

[Brian Tymchak]

No the outside permitter shaping is continuous, the inside frame members are coped to fit as Alex shows.

Thanks to you and Alex for pointing that out. I looked at our current doors more closely and you are correct. I hadn't realized that and was figuring I would need to remove both sides of the trim.

Alex, thanks for the idea of using a router. I'll give that some thought. I was thinking of doing precise plunge cuts with the track saw just thru the trim along the perimeter.