Finishing clothing drawers with SealCoat shellac - sand or steel wool final coat?

[scott vroom]

I'm using Bulls Eye SealCoat to finish some baltic birch drawers I'm building that will hold clothing. One coat, maybe two...haven't decided. Question is how should I smooth out the nibs in the final coat? I experimented with one coat and then 400 grit sandpaper...looks pretty good, but am wondering if fine steel wool would be a better choice, or maybe a fine 3M sanding block? I might even try John TenEyk's method of buffing with a brown paper bag...it works great on arm r seal. Any thoughts?

[Richard Coers]

I've pretty much eliminated steel wool and replaced it with Mirka Abralon in my shop. Lasts so much longer and way cleaner. I just stop the grit at whatever sheen I want. Buying an assortment is a great way to start using it. Pricey by lasts a long time.

[Phil Mueller]

Not maybe a definitive answer, but I use the highest grit that will still take off the nibs. And I wet sand. I’ll usually start at 1000 or even 1500 and see what that does. Working down in grit if necessary. The sealcoat is only a 2lb cut, so one, maybe two coats is going to be pretty thin. Thus even more reason to start at a high grit. If I’m going for a more satin look, a light touch with 0000 steel wool and wax.

[Frederick Skelly]

I use sealcoat all the time. You'll laugh, but I smooth out the nibs using a brown paper bag - seriously. Rub it down between coats and after the final. It works well for me.

[John TenEyck]

I've used a variety of methods for that application, Scott, 600 - 1000 grit sandpaper on a hand block is probably my favorite. 3M Ultrafine or Superfine (can't remember which one) foam pads work really well, too. I don't like steel wool because it leaves behind little fibers that are harder to get rid of than the other methods. Whatever you use, be careful with the edges. I've gotten some nasty splinters from Baltic birch edges.

John