Building Router Table - Need Suggestion

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Was at Lowes picking up a few things and swung by the cabinet/counter top area looking for some damaged/clearance counter top to use for a router table top. Found this beautiful custom laminate graphite grey L shape top. It is made by LamTech and is awesome. It was marked down from $471 to $25. (Side note : Why would someone custom order and pay $471 for Laminate top? Is this normal? Should I reconsider my career?). My original thought was that I was looking for something to replace the steel wing and right area of Jet Contractor saw. After getting this top, I am now thinking about building a stand alone router table and attaching cabinets to the top. I am using Rockler T track and a nice fence system with the router table regardless of whether it is in the saw or stand alone. I have room for the stand alone table. I guess my question is, would removing the stamped steel wing and replacing with this laminate top be more beneficial than the room and area of a stand alone table? I could always find some cast iron for the wing along with some other clearance mdf top right?

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[Jesse Cloud]

I would be concerned about the substrate for that laminate. If its 3/4 MDF, I'm not sure it will give you the rigidity you need to keep it flat. Especially if you are mounting a heavy router and especially if you are putting in a groove for t-track. I use two layers of 3/4 mdf for my tables (or steel). You will also need laminate on both sides to keep moisture even and avoid racking.
It is pretty, and well worth the $25, but I would make my router table industrial strength. YMMV...

[Jeffrey Schronce]

I would be concerned about the substrate for that laminate. If its 3/4 MDF, I'm not sure it will give you the rigidity you need to keep it flat. Especially if you are mounting a heavy router and especially if you are putting in a groove for t-track. I use two layers of 3/4 mdf for my tables (or steel). You will also need laminate on both sides to keep moisture even and avoid racking.
It is pretty, and well worth the $25, but I would make my router table industrial strength. YMMV...

Very valid point which I have contemplated but did not address. It has 3/4 MDF and I was planning on either adding additional 3/4 MDF or preferably reinforcing with steel frame on the underside to prevent any sag as this thing is very flat right now.

[Hank Knight]

Jeffrey,

My last tablesaw was a Powermatic Model 64 contractors-type saw. I removed the right extension wing and made a router table extension to replace it from a double thickness of 3/4" birch plywood, surfaced on all sides and edges with high pressure laminate. I mounted it to thje saw with a bracket made from 2" X 1/4" aluminum angle and braced it to the saw base with 3/4" angle iron. It was very solid, worked great and I used it for 10 years. I made some specialty brackets to attach an auxilliary fence to the saw's rip fence that gave me the ability to adjust the router table fence for bit size and for jointing cuts. The saw fence had a micro adjust feature that was wonderful with the router table. I don't think I could have gotten more use out of a stand-alone router table, especially given my limited shop space. I loved the router table, but hated the saw. I sold it several years ago and bought a Unisaw. I added a Bench Dog router table extension to the Unisaw, but I don't like it as much as I did my home-made one.

I'd say go for it, especially with that nice laminated countertop.

Hank

[Anthony Anderson]

If you want to use it check for flatness. Figure your dimensions then cut the piece to fit. Then I would use contact cement to add at another 1/2"-3/4" layer of MDF. Also check the added piece for flatness before adhering to the top. Wrap the perimeter with some 3/4 material of your choosing (Oak, Maple). I did not laminate the botton of my router table, and it is doing fine. About two years old. Make sure to add a couple of coats of poly to the underside if moisture is a concern, allowing to dry, and sanding between coats. To answer the other question, No I don't think it is normal for that piece to be in the $475 range. I would say that Lowe's has put a marked up price on the sticker to make the deal unresistable. In either case you got a great deal, and I think it will work fine for you. Good Luck and let us know how it works out. Regards, Bill

[Don Baer]

Jeff,
I have the same TS as you do. In the attached thread is a picture of my router table. I just made an Auxilary fen that I attach to the saw fence with a clamp.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...121#post268121

[scott spencer]

Hi Jeffrey - I'd think you'd gain some mass by replacing the steel wing with the laminated piece, plus you'll be gaining some table surface where there was formerly nothing. You can always reinforce the substrate where the router goes if you need to.

[Chris Rosenberger]

Here are some pictures of a free standing router table I built in November.
The top is 1 1/2" X 36" X 49" MDF. The Base is 36" tall x 46" wide X 30" deep. With the casters the top is 40 1/2" above the floor. The drawers are 28" front to back.

[Tom Peterson]

Sommerfields is closing out the oldstyle Industrio phenolic router table for $99. you may want ot consider that as an alternative. I believe that it is the top with the removable insert. I thought about it, but I have too manyother projects going right now so my cheap Rockler top will have to continue to serve me. Chris brings up a good point about the height of the table top. I made mine higher also so I do not have to bend over when doing work. The cabinet top comes off the base and I can put my portable planner on the bottom rolling cart.

[Bart Leetch]

If you do put it in as a wing on your table-saw make sure to position the router so you can stand at the end of the saw & work along side of the router like you would on a shaper table for better control & safety reasons.

Here is a pic of mine in the left wing 22" x 27".

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=15977

[Jeffrey Schronce]

If you do put it in as a wing on your table-saw make sure to position the router so you can stand at the end of the saw & work along side of the router like you would on a shaper table for better control & safety reasons.

Here is a pic of mine in the left wing 22" x 27".

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=15977

Thanks for the link. That is exactly what I had in mind prior to the free standing thing popping into my head. I like the photos, particularly the photos of the underside of the table. Saves me from brainstorming.