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Thread: Should I buy a new garage door for my workshop?

  1. #1
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    Question Should I buy a new garage door for my workshop?

    My workshop is in my 2 car garage. The overhead door is as old as the house, 14 years. The door has no windows and no insulation. I've thought about having the top row replaced with a row of windows and insulating the door but to be honest my thinking has evolved to just buy a new door with windows and insulation. For those of you who have had new doors installed, do you have any hints or suggestions as to what I should look for? I have one estimate for $2,400 for a 16" x7" insulated door with the top row of double insulated windows and plan on getting a second estimate. I have a 220v electric heater which can get the temperature to a comfortable working level, but I'm pretty sure it's expensive to run. I'm in New Jersey, if that makes any difference.
    Thoughts? Recommendations.
    Dennis

  2. #2
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    Which direction does the door face?
    Is the door on the front of the house or side?
    Wayne Dalton doors are the most common and their medium to top grade is very good.

  3. #3
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    14 years really isn't that old. It's possible that you could put it for sale on Craig's list or Faebook. I personally like a garage door with a jack shaft and torsion springs vs the coil springs more commonly found on residential doors. It means you just have the track for the door in the ceiling and it can be placed tighter to the ceiling. If you have a garage door opener on the current door you will most likely want to replace it with a jack shaft style one which will free up the space where a traditional opener would be.

    Insulated doors are nice not just for heating. They help reduce the noise leaving your shop. My not be an issue if your neighbors aren't close. The insulation also makes the doors stiffer.

  4. #4
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    I would consider it if you are going to be spending a lot of time in the space and conditioning it.

    You may find this recent thread helpful, too...

    https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....sulation-value
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #5
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    My workshop is a 24 x 36 garage with a wide aluminum door and a narrow aluminum one. It faces west, so in the summer the afternoon sun really heats up the door and space. So I bought a bunch of rigid foam (styrofoam?) insulation and filled the cavities. Each panel had a bit of a lip so I was able to squeeze the foam behind the lip. So I didn't need to use any adhesive. All of the panels have successfully been in place for over 20 years. My garage doors are about 25 plus years old and are still doing fine.

    Obviously, you should do whatever you want. But if I were in your shoes, I would save the $2400 and insulate my own doors (BTW, the commercial overhead doors that I have on my house that are factory insulated have perhaps 1/2" insulation whereas my workshop doors are at least 1" insulation, so you may be able to insulate them better than the factory ones). Also, while it might be nice to have some natural light, I wouldn't fret about it. Perhaps I would consider putting in a skylight or "solar tube". BTW, in my workshop I have two 2x4' skylights but no windows in my overhead doors.

  6. #6
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    The quote doesn't seem like it's to far out of line. It depends on what they are installing. Here's a link to a HD option. Just food for thought. They also have installers they can recommend. If your getting insulated get the high R value. It will only make it easier to heat.

    homedepot.com/p/Clopay-Coachman-Collection-16-ft-x-7-ft-18-4-R-Value-Intellicore-Insulated-White-Garage-Door-with-SQ24-Window-CXU13-SW-SQ24/204598564

  7. #7
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    I learned something about Home Depot’s relationship with contractors. We used HD to find someone to work on our boiler. The guy told me that, because HD hooked us up initially, they would get a commission on all subsequent work. Somehow, that doesn’t sit right with me. Maybe a commission for a year or two, but forever?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Feeley View Post
    I learned something about Home Depot’s relationship with contractors. We used HD to find someone to work on our boiler. The guy told me that, because HD hooked us up initially, they would get a commission on all subsequent work. Somehow, that doesn’t sit right with me. Maybe a commission for a year or two, but forever?
    I worked for a glass shop when just out of school and the owners owned the property that also had a used car lot on it. After a number of them came and went Pizza Hut wanted to lease it. But they had a deal with someone who acted as the middle man. Every month that guy got a cut of the rent. He didn't do anything more than come up with a list of properties for lease in the area that PH wanted. Didn't help with any permits, didn't find a contractor to renovate it, not a single thing. Large companies are very funny on how they do business. I'm sure HD and Lowes make a lot of money off of the subcontractors they use.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Feeley View Post
    I learned something about Home Depot’s relationship with contractors. We used HD to find someone to work on our boiler. The guy told me that, because HD hooked us up initially, they would get a commission on all subsequent work. Somehow, that doesn’t sit right with me. Maybe a commission for a year or two, but forever?
    The flip side is that could keep a contractor potentially pretty busy. I wonder how they would ever know if you call him direct next time? Seems like only first time referrals would be commissioned.

  10. #10
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    One question I have is whether you need to continue to use the garage as a garage. I'm hoping to build a detached shop/garage in the not-too-distant future and got an idea from another forum of having it framed for a standard garage door but then filling the door opening with a wall having double doors (for getting materials/projects in and out) and a window or two. This will allow me to insulate very well but be able to tell people that it's easy to convert to a standard garage when it comes time to sell the house.

  11. #11
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    Scott, I did just that in my current shop, but it could easily be restored to being a "garage" by a future owner if they didn't want a shop. (silly folks if that is the case) But it may not be an option to abandon the garage doors for some folks because of where they live and any regulations/requirements/HOA or other expectations on residential buildings.

    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  12. #12
    IMO it will be a good investment going forward and will save you money on heating.

    But I would go with a reputable garage door company. That estimate doesn't sound too bad.

    I definitely would not use HD or Lowes. We went through HD for a window replacement. The windows and the installer was great, HD logistics, communications, and responsiveness was terrible.

    It took 2 months to get a missing handle, even withholding final payment, and getting threatened with collection.

  13. #13
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    IF you want to replace the door yourself get one that uses a drill motor to wind the springs, if you have the door installed then get a torsion spring.
    EITHER way up grade to a jackshaft opener such as:
    https://www.northshorecommercialdoor...xoCGZoQAvD_BwE
    you can install the opener yourself easily and then you don't have the opener hanging down in the middle of the garage door

    I have an insulated steel door that was installed when house was built in 1999, next door has a steel non insulated door that has had foam panel slid in place, house built at same time. We both believe my door is stronger and leaks less air. IF you can afford it I would upgrade to the thickest insulated door you can find at a garage door dealer. Definitely do your homework on what is available in your area. Then decide what one looks the best to you, checking on sound deadening, rigidity, resistance to dents, etc.
    Good luck
    Ron

  14. #14
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    When I built my house in 2003, I chose the mid-level garage door, which was insulated to about an R5 or so. It was okay but not great. After an accident required replacing the door about 4 years ago, I opted for the high-end door, perhaps R11 or so. The new door is a huge improvement over the old one in terms of maintaining a constant temperature in the garage. The garage is insulated and attached to the house, and with the new door I can heat it from the mid 30's to the mid 50's in about an hour using a single 1500W electric heater. In summer, when the temp is up to 100 degrees outside, it gets into the low 80s at the most inside the garage.

    When they replaced the door, they put in all new track and adjusted the weatherstripping to get a good seal all around the door. It is also white, which helps reflect heat during the summer.

    One of these days I'll install a sub-panel and a mini-split for heating/cooling in there. That will make it a nearly ideal workshop area.

  15. #15
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    Thanks for the responses
    Tomorrow I have an appointment with a door installer who will install a Clopay door with insulation, (r18) and thermo pane windows for $2,330. Seems fair to me.
    Dennis

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