New table saw

[Brian Runau]

Looking for a new table saw to replace piece of ____ I have now. I have 115V power. I could go to 3hp, but the 1/75 has worked fine for me in terms of power. Limited on space in terms of how wide I can go and need. 36" cut width would be fine and again the 1.75 hp has worked fine./ Looking at this Laguna model. Looking at the manual it looks like it has set screw adjustment for table to blade square which would be a nice option.

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/fusion-f2-table-saw-laguna

Thanks.

[Todd Trebuna]

That was on my very short list too, Brian. I decided instead to go SawStop, but everything I read on that saw was positive.

[Brian Runau]

That was on my very short list too, Brian. I decided instead to go SawStop, but everything I read on that saw was positive.

Todd:

I liked the safety feature, but is it worth the extra $1000? Thanks Brian

[Bruce King]

Nice saw, interesting though how they require a 25 amp breaker, this is almost double the FLA.

[Jim Becker]

If you mean you only have 120v power available, that's going to keep you in the 1.75hp max range machinery space which most often for new machines is a "hybrid" type cabinet saw. They have been somewhat popular over the last decade because they fill a need for something with more mass than a more portable machine but keeping within the capability that 120v power can provide. If you can support 240v in your shop space, that will allow you to consider the 3hp cabinet saw options for new or used.

[Justin Rapp]

While I don't have that saw, I have a few other Laguna tools and they are well made and I've had nothing but good success with them. The old 'stigma' about bad customer service is also a non-issue now. I've called them with questions pre-purchase and they always got back to me same day.

I have thought about getting a Laguna table saw but really want the safety of the sawstop.

[Dave Seng]

Todd:

I liked the safety feature, but is it worth the extra $1000? Thanks Brian

My thoughts (driven partially by the fact that I'm a Firefighter/EMS guy) - What's the cost of a trip to the Emergency Room? Let alone missing a digit or two if they can't be saved...
I looked at a lot of saws before I bought my SawStop - and then just gritted my teeth and dug deeper into the wallet. Bought a little peace of mind in a shop full of other things that can tear a fella up pretty easily too.

That Laguna looks pretty nice - and should serve you well for a long time.

[Brian Runau]

If you mean you only have 120v power available, that's going to keep you in the 1.75hp max range machinery space which most often for new machines is a "hybrid" type cabinet saw. They have been somewhat popular over the last decade because they fill a need for something with more mass than a more portable machine but keeping within the capability that 120v power can provide. If you can support 240v in your shop space, that will allow you to consider the 3hp cabinet saw options for new or used.

I have 1.75 now and it is plenty for me. Do you get better features by going to 3hp?

[Frank Pratt]

Todd:

I liked the safety feature, but is it worth the extra $1000? Thanks Brian

For the extra $1000, you're getting a lot more than the safety feature. Both the PCS & ICS are miles ahead of most any other saws in their class in terms of build quality & finish. Powermatic is probably the brand that is closest in quality.

[Micah Puscheck]

I am probably towards the bottom of the list of people here qualified to talk on the subject, but I was basically right where you were.

Have a bottom end Craftsman direct drive saw that runs on 120v and has enough power to do the basics, though cutting 2" maple was beyond it's capabilities without doing it in two passes or burning wood. The cutting *quality* was more of the issue to me than the power. But I digress...

I was looking at Hybrids for months, looking used and new, trying to figure out what made sense. In the end, I upsold myself a couple times and ended up on a Grizzly 1023RL, which is a real 3hp table saw. I wanted to be sure that the power wouldn't be a limiting factor for me in the future. I cannot compare quality of Laguna vs Grizzly myself, but the hybrids from Grizzly were only a couple hundred more to go to a full cabinet saw.

The Laguna looks like a nice hybrid to me. Iron table and extension wings is a nice plus. However, the trunions and the rails are both aluminum on yours, as opposed to steel. There's probably a good bit more that's different as well, but I don't know all the specifics. You can see how heavy they're built just by looking at the specs - the hybrid Laguna weighs 276 pounds, while the 3hp version Laguna weighs about 100 pounds more.

My useless $.02, you are looking at what would likely be a really nice saw. A 3hp will have beefier construction and more power, but if the hybrid will cut what you need, that looks pretty cool!

[Bryan Lisowski]

I would look into the options Harvey has available. They look very well built.

[Brian Runau]

I would look into the options Harvey has available. They look very well built.

Harvey?

Thanks.

[Jim Becker]

I have 1.75 now and it is plenty for me. Do you get better features by going to 3hp?

The increase in power is nice when cutting thicker material, but performance wise for most common cutting, it's not a big issue. The 3hp+ machines do tend to have more mass, slightly larger tables and tend to vibrate less. If you expect to continue working the same way your are now, then one of the nominal 1.75hp saws would likely satisfy you and would run on 120v 20 amp power.

[Mike Kees]

I would go with the Grizzly 1023 line. One of my former employees has one ,real nice saw. Smooth ,quiet and powerful.

[Jim Dwight]

When I got my PCS I think SawStop was providing the blade guard with the vacuum attachment with the 3hp model. My 1.75hp does not have it. I haven't used my blade guard yet (not a recommendation, just a statement of fact). I am pleased with my saw including the motor choice but I learned it really does not function well with full kerf blades. I had other 110V saws (3) that were not that sensitive. But I can cut 3 inches deep in softwood, haven't tried deep cuts in hardwood that I remember, with an all around 40 tooth Freud Fusion. Didn't even have to switch to the thin kerf ripping blade I also have. With a full kerf, even a Freud 24 tooth made the saw struggle a little. If I pushed it, the motor's thermal overload would trip. I haven't hit it yet with a thin kerf on the saw. I also have the 36 inch rip capacity with the better fence and really recommend that. I use a track saw for anything bigger - and probably would even if I had space for a 52 inch fence. Just much nicer to move the saw rather than the wood when the workpiece is big.