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Thread: Drywall repair over metal or plastic brackets

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Las Cruces, NM
    Posts
    2,040
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom M King View Post
    Once the hole is cut, there should be enough room to reach in, and glue a piece of wood to the sheetrock with Powergrab. If you fumble one inside the wall, and it drops, it won't matter.
    Patching over a bracket is the situation in my original post, not patching a hole, but I agree that gluing wood backing to support a patch for a hole is often effective. When the back of the drywall is dusty, sometimes adhesive doesn't stick to it. I've also tried attaching wood backing to the drywall with drywall screws - work's well when you can hold the wood steady while driving in the screws. I've also tried using drywall clips ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and they are effective on drywall that is in good condition. A drawback of clips is that I have to order them. Local stores only sell them in expensive "hole patching kits" that contain only a few clips.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Eastern Iowa
    Posts
    751
    Quote Originally Posted by Stephen Tashiro View Post
    Very good idea! Do you have a brand name or a link to the kind with the disjoint assembly?
    https://www.alliedmoulded.com/residential/sliderbox/

    Not sure of the price.

    806EBAEA-1A1B-44D3-A6FF-2546C3601D6D.jpg


    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sliderbo...B-1H/311531567
    A horizontal model 1-gang.

    C8C276F9-3861-45B3-B9F1-B8C94FC3F546.jpg




    Quote Originally Posted by Stephen Tashiro View Post
    Patching over a bracket is the situation in my original post, not patching a hole, but I agree that gluing wood backing to support a patch for a hole is often effective. When the back of the drywall is dusty, sometimes adhesive doesn't stick to it. I've also tried attaching wood backing to the drywall with drywall screws - work's well when you can hold the wood steady while driving in the screws. I've also tried using drywall clips ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and they are effective on drywall that is in good condition. A drawback of clips is that I have to order them. Local stores only sell them in expensive "hole patching kits" that contain only a few clips.
    Also works well for reinforcing the drywall to address your concern. Generous amount of white glue, a 6” length of a painter’s stir stick, couple of office bulldog clips as clamps. It’s like adding a 1.5” x 6” washer behind the drywall. Still thin enough to use the flappers to secure the box, but strong enough to secure a box using its plaster ears and #6 screws if you want.
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    Comments made here are my own and, according to my children, do not reflect the opinions of any other person... anywhere, anytime.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Okotoks AB
    Posts
    3,500
    Blog Entries
    1
    Up here in the frozen north, steel boxes are still very popular & preferred by most electricians. Steel boxes take a lot more abuse and fewer issues with stripped screw lugs. I seems like in the US plastic boxes are most common. The one place where plastic boxes have the advantage is with sealing in exterior walls. I've used both & personally much prefer the steel boxes.

    The 2104 is a 2" x 3" welded box that is excellent for use in old work. They can easily be screwed to a stud through the side. If no stud is in the desired location, I glue a short length of 2x2 to the back of the drywall & secure the box to it. The nice thing about the 2104 is that it only needs a 2" x 3" hole, with leaves a large safety margin for sloppy cutting or torn paper. Less patching with them.

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