Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: Swan Chisel: How Old?

  1. #1

    Swan Chisel: How Old?

    I was showing off a newly re-handled Swan firmer chisel to a fellow Sawmillcreeker and he asked how old the chisel was: good question. I've found a couple of references on the web but nothing that would conclusively allow dating it. A 1911 catalog shows mostly socket chisels, so I am guessing its a later product. Any insight into its age would be welcome.

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]

  2. #2
    Early Swan tools are marked "Best Cast Steel". After the foundries stopped producing cast steel Swan switched to "Best Tool Steel". I'd guess that they switched early in the 1900's, maybe 1920.

    Nice clear logo. A lot of the logo strikes were only partial, or the chisel had some rust that wiped out part of the logo.

    Nice handle. Looks like cherry - is that what it is?

    Mike
    Last edited by Mike Henderson; 01-19-2021 at 6:29 PM.
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    West Simsbury, CT
    Posts
    384
    I was the other Sawmillcreeker and Phil has done a phenomenal job in restoring the chisel and making a perfect paring handle for it. I tried to buy it since he clearly has too many chisels already 😁, but he’s not budging yet!

    Kevin

  4. #4
    I recently sold a full set of Swan firmer (square sides) socket chisels, almost all marked "Best Cast Steel" on eBay. It took me years to fill out the group from 1/8 to about 1 1/2. I wasn't really using them and I'm getting old so I decided to sell. I also had a set of Witherby and sold those too.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  5. #5
    Mike: thanks for the information: so it would appear that it was probably made sometime between 1920 and 1951, which is apparently when they went out of business. I did read something about a large quantity of Swan chisels that became available more recently when a hardware store went out of business (or something like that). This was in "new old stock" condition, save for a severely cracked handle, when I bought it recently, which would explain the excellent condition of the logo strike. Maybe it was part of the hardware store trove. Its a substantial piece of tooling and I look forward to putting it to use. The handle was made from what all chisel handles are made from: scraps. I work mostly in cherry and had a chunk that was perfect for this application. The trick is getting the sequence right when making a tanged handle: putting the final finish on (friction polish) before drilling the hole for the tang and before parting if off the lathe. It all seemed to come together, more or less.

    Kevin: Ha: I promise you have first dibs on it if I decide to thin the herd!

  6. #6
    When I do a handle for a tanged chisel, I drill the hole for the tang first. Then I use that hole with the tail center on the lathe. That way, I know that the hole is centered on the handle.

    I drill with a drill bit on the lathe - a chuck with a taper that fits into the tail stock - so the hole is straight into the blank. Then I do the rest as you describe.

    I use at least two drill bits, one a bit smaller than the base of the tang and a smaller one for the tip of the tang. I want to have to drive the handle onto the tang when I'm finished - so that it's tight.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  7. #7
    Mike: good advice. I will try that approach on my next re-handling effort. I had great luck drilling the few test pieces, but when it came time to drill the actual handle, the bit did wander a little. Your approach should work better. Thanks!

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Gaudio View Post
    Mike: good advice. I will try that approach on my next re-handling effort. I had great luck drilling the few test pieces, but when it came time to drill the actual handle, the bit did wander a little. Your approach should work better. Thanks!
    I'm not an expert turner but I do a small amount. I have a cone that fits on my tail stock and I can use that to center into a hole that I've already drilled, such as a chisel handle.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  9. #9
    Mike: the live center I have been using: I think it will be perfect for this approach:

    [IMG][/IMG]

  10. #10
    Yep, Looks a lot like mine.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  11. #11
    I think the best clue of age is the round neck and round bolster. Chisels in the late 19th century retained the more traditional flat neck and octagonal bolster. After the 1930's most firmer chisels had bevel edges, so that hems it in as well.

    Here is a catalog from 1904. Note octagonal bolsters, an older form. The firmer chisels are both beveled and straight.
    https://archive.org/details/JamesSwa...e/n19/mode/2up

  12. #12
    Warren: OK, so it would appear that its not an antique, but a more modern variant from Swan. Side note: I am thinking this may be the perfect candidate for the Unicorn sharpening treatment: I'll let you know how I make out with that. Thanks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •