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Thread: Splintering when routing rail/stile grooves on cope & stick doors

  1. #31
    Join Date
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    Are you referring to the groove for the panel? the edges of the groove are tearing out?
    In that case do a first very shallow pass (if you can manage do a climb cut there) and then a full depth pass (not climb cut). The first pass will create a clean groove edge and the subsequent pass will take care of the rest....

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by mreza Salav View Post
    Are you referring to the groove for the panel? the edges of the groove are tearing out?
    In that case do a first very shallow pass (if you can manage do a climb cut there) and then a full depth pass (not climb cut). The first pass will create a clean groove edge and the subsequent pass will take care of the rest....

    Mreza, yes precisely....rail/stile groove edges are tearing out. My test cuts will include a very shallow climb cut first pass followed by a full depth second pass in the correct direction.

    One disadvantage of the router table & no power feeder is the ability to hold the stock perfectly flat to the table and fence. My upcoming project includes 2 doors with 73" long stiles across my 32" wide table. I don't do enough volume to justify upgrading to a shaper/power feed....but I'm working on talking myself into it anyway .
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  3. #33
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    If you have a power feeder and strong enough router table you can use it on it. I've used it extensively when building a lot of doors. I have bolted it to a 3/8" thick plate and use clamps to hold the plate secure to the table. Move the whole setup to the shaper when needed.

    doors12.jpgdoors16.jpgdoors2.jpg

  4. #34
    I see no value in multiple passes ,it can work ,but is certainly not reliable. Two passes take twice as long as one pass.
    Climb cuts work but usually give a more ripply surface, for painted stuff it might not matter, on stained work it shows.
    I suggested rounding the sharp corners of the stock. That helps and can be done with sand paper or router climb cut.
    TRY it. If it makes no sense to you ...try looking at this way. A sharp square corner can be like a loose thread in cloth
    that causes unraveling . Cut off the loose thread...and round over the square corners with sandpaper or router climb
    with small round over bit.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott vroom View Post
    I don't do enough volume to justify upgrading to a shaper/power feed....but I'm working on talking myself into it anyway .
    A lot of people seem to think the advantage of a shaper is production volume (which can be true) but the significant advantage is cut quality.

  6. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by Jared Sankovich View Post
    A lot of people seem to think the advantage of a shaper is production volume (which can be true) but the significant advantage is cut quality.
    I agree that's often the case. But I think it's more what cutters are commonly used . Shaper guys often have more steel
    knives than carbide. Few shops have ANY steel router bits, and with careful use and slower rpm the steel router bits
    make excellent cuts. Some shop owners don't know that. Some know that but also know their guys will run them too fast
    and ruin them. In useing my own steel bits in employments fellow workers older than me would say they didn't know
    steel bits existed. And I've seen jobs go too slowly because carbide bits were used too dull and too slowly ,making a lot
    burn lines. And they take some time to sand out !
    In shops that are run by hired foremen ,and NOT the owner , the formen will sometimes buy cheap stuff that they
    know is slow and inefficient because they get a big bonus if they they keep spending down ! I've only SEEN that in one
    employment but I'm pretty sure that dim bulb never had an original idea.

  7. #37
    In reading grain to see in what direction the stock should be run ,many will look only at the growth rings....and sometimes
    that's all you can see. But you can also check best direction with a sharp knife. When you can see small little dash lines,
    I find their direction a better indicator than the growth ring grain. An old timer showed me that on one of my first jobs.
    But I've never seen that in print ....before this post.

  8. #38
    Scott,

    Sommerfeld tools carries bit sets the profile bit does a slight round over on the edges of the grooves. I’ve never used one, but thought it would be something to consider. If they work it sure would save some headaches.

    I’ve got a couple of their bit sets they are made by CMT and branded under Marc’s name. BTW Marc’s brother is Kreg, the Kreg jig guy.

  9. #39
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    Dec 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott vroom View Post
    Not yet...I started this thread looking for ideas before beginning that project. I just finished an oak kitchen and fought the splintering throughout.
    Hi Scott, I looked at the cutter you're using, it doesn't have any scoring cutters, just hogging cutters.

    Here's what I use for grooving, it has scoring and hogging cutters, are there any router bits like that?

    Regards, Rod.

    Groover.jpg

  10. #40
    [QUOTE=Robert Engel;3090370]Scott,

    Sommerfeld tools carries bit sets the profile bit does a slight round over on the edges of the grooves. I’ve never used one, but thought it would be something to consider. If they work it sure would save some headaches.

    I've seen those. A guy brought a catalog pic into the shop. We all had a good laugh!!. If you can sell cabinet doors with
    gutters ....STOP ! And get into real estate sales ! The principle of the round over is the same as what I suggested ......but
    the result is ugly . Since my climb-cut round over can be done with the highest shaper speed ...the method I was taught
    is sure-fire and .....makes a lot more sense than staying healthy by dressing up like the LONG RANGER.......HIGH HO...
    off to work I go !

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    Three Rivers, Central Oregon
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    To follow up, I ended up doing the profiling in 2 passes: an initial 1/16 climb cut followed by a full depth pass in the proper direction. Of the 16 rail/stile pieces profiled, only 2 had minor splinters. For those I simply edge jointed and made another pass on the router table with no further splintering. I had milled the pieces a bit wider to allow for that extra step.

    Thanks again to all for the ideas and advice. Here's the 2 cabs installed...no trim/hardware yet, the GC will add in a few days.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Scott Vroom

    I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.

  12. #42
    Yes, the SMALL n’ SAFE round over climb-cut paves the way...for smooth sailing. Some “safety rules” are written by people who think
    tradesmen are dumb-bells.

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