Splintering when routing rail/stile grooves on cope & stick doors

[scott vroom]

I make cope & stick doors on a router table (no power feeder) and often fight splintering when making the rail/stile groove cuts. I've tried changing the spindle speed and how fast I feed the board. Same result.

I've been thinking for some time about making a VERY shallow climb cut on the first pass...maybe 1/64? I haven't tried test cuts yet but am thinking breaking the surface might reduce or eliminate splintering when routing the full depth groove in the proper direction. Anyone tried this? I'm well aware of the dangers of climb cutting hardwood, although I routinely climb cut a 1/4" groove in plywood to receive the cabinet back.

There was a guy here a few years ago who said he routinely used a power feeder in reverse to climb cut on his shaper with excellent results.

[Mel Fulks]

I would not run climb cut with the real profile cutter. But a climb cut made on the still square stock that rounds the
corners ,and more if possible WILL help. Sometimes even something like a 1/4 " round over climb cut on corners is enuf.

[Kevin Jenness]

If your profile cutter(s) takes a full height cut you can eliminate tearout by overcutting 1/16" or so- if you want to end up with 2 1/4" width start with 2 5/16". Easiest way is with an outboard fence.

Climbcutting will also eliminate tearout but it requires a power feeder and is harder on the cutters as the chips don't clear easily and more heat is generated.

A third method is to score the sides of the panel groove with a mortise gauge.

[Lee Schierer]

Before making your first cut look at the grain on your pieces. Try to feed them so the grain ends are pointing toward the end of each piece to be cut instead of the leading end. Sometimes flipping a piece end for end will eliminate the tear out. You can't always do this, but it works better when you can.

[johnny means]

A sacrificial zero clearance fence will give you nice clean cuts.

[Bob Cooper]

A sacrificial zero clearance fence will give you nice clean cuts.

im trying to think through how to make a zero clearance fence for a stile or rail router bit that has a bearing on it

[Bob Cooper]

If your profile cutter(s) takes a full height cut you can eliminate tearout by overcutting 1/16" or so- if you want to end up with 2 1/4" width start with 2 5/16". Easiest way is with an outboard fence.
.

kevin...just trying to make sure I’m following...are you saying let your stile or rail be a little wider than needed because that would leave room for a second pass? 1/16” in this case and that second pass would not have the tear out?

[Jared Sankovich]

kevin...just trying to make sure I’m following...are you saying let your stile or rail be a little wider than needed because that would leave room for a second pass? 1/16” in this case and that second pass would not have the tear out?

Not a 2nd pass, a full depth + 1/16-1/8". It still tears out but its deep enough it cuts out the tear out.

It doesn't work with a bearing guided router bit though, only a full profile cut

[scott vroom]

The stick profile has a bearing.

[Kevin Jenness]

Remove the bearing and cut an arc out of the back of the sacrificial fence leaving about 1/4" at the face. Attach it to your main fence and carefully break through. If necessary cut a clearance slot for the threaded bearing shank.

Jared explained the principle of the overcut. It is best done with a powerfeed and outboard fence, but the powerfeed can be replaced by featherboards or you can use an offset inboard fence.

[George Bokros]

Assuming you are doing the sticking cut ....

Set your router table fence flush with the bearing as usual. Clamp some UHMW sheeting to the fence and take a shallow cut then remove the UHMW and make the full depth cut. I use a piece of 1/4" and a piece of 1/8 inch stacked against the fence. Make a pass then remove the 1/8", make a pass remove the 1/4" and put the 1/8" back in place, make a pass then remove the 1/8" and make the final pass.

I do this also for the raised panel bit.

If you are doing the cope cut use a a backer board behind the rail.

[Charles Grauer]

Bob: IF the splintering is on the end make a follower backup board. Make the opposite cut to fit the profile and stick it on the side that is the end of the cut. Always have a backup to follow the rail.

[Rod Sheridan]

im trying to think through how to make a zero clearance fence for a stile or rail router bit that has a bearing on it

If you're using it in a fence system it shouldn't have a bearing, remove it.

I use an outboard fence on the shaper and profile and dimension in one pass, using a stock feeder of course............Rod.

[George Bokros]

If you're using it in a fence system it shouldn't have a bearing, remove it.............Rod.

Rail and stile bits always have a bearing. Without a bearing fence set up would be very difficult.

[Cary Falk]

I always cut my rail and stiles wider than they need to be. I make a shallow cut the first time and then follow with the full depth. If I see that the profile is not to my liking, I run the edge the edge through the jointer to take a 1/16 of whatever it takes to get rid of the splintering/whatever and then back to the shaper. After the edge is good I cut to final width. This takes more time but I don't do it professionally.