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Thread: Shop Wall dithering

  1. #1

    Shop Wall dithering

    So I've still got this pile of v-groove shiplap blue pine lying on stickers near the back of the shop. It's a big enough pile to confidently cover all the walls and surround the roll-up door. I'd originally intended to run it horizontally, partly because I figured that would require somewhat less time teetering atop a ten-foot stepladder.

    While reading through sbop wall comments and experiences here and elsewhere, it occurred to me that my walls might function better if I bolted on stringers every 16" or so, then hung the planks vertically. Less dust accumulation, possibly a stronger wall for hanging racks and cabinets, and fewer overall cuts to make. Twelve-foot walls would soak up 12-foot boards in a jiffy.

    Then I went out and put a tape on the stack, just to double-check. They're all 14-footers. That's a bit more wastage than I had in mind!

    So horizontal it is, I guess. Not only that, but I'm probably gonna be a hardhead and hang it V-side out. Why? I just like the looks. Visible v-grooves remind me of the way so many garages were finished out with v-groove cedar when I was growing up in Portland (and cedar was cheap...).

    Next order of business is to settle on a nailer. My 16-gauge P-C coughed up a lung, and I haven't had any luck with either replacing o-rings or praying over it. Might try sacrificing a chicken next, begging a loan, or even the sacrilege of replacement. I've heard good things about 15-gauge angle nailers for good holding power in blind-nailed shiplap, and now I find that Milwaukee makes what looks like a nice cordless version that runs on M18 fuel batteries. I've got two of those -- three, if I can figure out which dark corner the other one's hiding in.

    Since it all goes up in my own dang shop, access to a compressor isn't an issue. My little 18-gauge pneumatic nailer won't take two-inch nails, so I question its holding power, but I'm concerned that a 15-gauge might split out tongues. Should I bite the bullet and replace my 16 with like-type? Use the 18 and double-tap every nailing point? Go out and buy a shiny new 15-gauge that I might not use much after the wall is hung?

    Might be overthinking it. Any preferences or recommendations on nailers for this application?

    Thanks.

    Cheers,

    Jack
    --Jack S. Llewyllson

    Gratitude is a gift to yourself.

    Purity tests are the bane of human existence.

    Codeine takes the pain from every muscle but the heart.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,850
    You will not regret having a 15 gage gun in your arsenal after you complete this wall project. I use mine a lot more than I ever expected and the nails have good holding power compared to brads. Mine happens to be a DeWalt and it wasn't expensive...pneumatic of course...which is less costly than battery power, but always has to have a "tail" when in use. The DeWalt replaced an old Accuset that lost it's mind and for which parts were no longer available.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
    I don’t think you’ll have trouble with 15g nails or medium crown staples. I’ve driven both into the tongues of softwood (and hardwood) without issues.

    Given the amount of weight you’re adding to the wall, just with the paneling, 15g would be the minimum I’d want. Siding nails aren’t out of the question for proper holding strength. Might be a bit much for the tongues though. Screws every other stud, alternating as you go up the wall will help.

    If you’re going to hang much weight off this paneling, might be best to still locate studs.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Cedar Park, TX (NW Austin)
    Posts
    578
    I got rid of my 16 gauge after getting the Porter Cable 15 gauge. I first bought a Hitachi but it would not take a 15 ga PC nail which they sell at Home Depot so I switched brands.

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