Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 23 of 23

Thread: Outdoor cabinet top covered in copper

  1. #16
    Agree with Bill, I'd let the vertical edges hang about a half inch lower than the bottom of the top surface. And if the top
    hangs over all around the copper will protect all of the cabinet.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    9,879
    If you plan it well and allow a loose enough fit you can bend three sides on the bench and slip it into place. leaving only one edge to fold by hand and hammer. You have two choices as to which edge. The short one is the logical choice ,or the one you never see since it is on the far side away from critical eyes. Those two choices may or may not be the same.
    I remember when copper prices started up in highschool it was said a copper roof was the same cost as covering it in pennies.
    Bill D.
    Last edited by Bill Dufour; 01-17-2021 at 10:14 AM.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    8,973
    Unless someone has a big Pan Brake, you won't be able to fold all four sides down. I would do the two longest, opposite sides, if the only brake available is a regular one. The other two ends can be carefully rolled down in place with a rolling pin.

    I use a Wuko tool for some things on standing seam roof panels that are too long to fit on a break, but that's not a commonly available tool, even for sheet metal shops. I also use a rolling pin for some sheet metal things. Wooden one will work fine, but it will get chewed up on a steel edge. I bought a cheap one off Amazon that is plastic with a silicone cover. The silicone cover didn't last long, but it slipped right off the plastic core, and the plastic has held up better than a wooden one did.

    There are a number of variations of these tools, but they cost close to $600 a piece. I have one that folds up the first 90 degrees, like the one is this video. If I need to fold one over to 180, since I don't do enough sheetmetal work to justify another one that goes farther than 90 degrees, I finish it with the rolling pin.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edmuEHbcQ_4
    Last edited by Tom M King; 01-17-2021 at 10:16 AM.

  4. #19
    If you keep the cabinet 22 inches deep on the top and 5 ft long, a 24 x 6 ft roll of 16 mil would be $175.00. Still not cheap but not bad. When I was a kid, my uncle made a make shift sheet metal bending tool using angle iron and clamps. It worked for the things he was doing.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Lancaster, Ohio
    Posts
    1,346
    I would bend a 1/4" 45 deg angle facing out on the bottom edge to keep water from creeping back under the copper, might consider using 100% silicone in one 2-3" strip down the middle 1/3 to hold the copper top in place
    post picture when done
    Good luck
    Ron

  6. #21
    I would try to return or hem the bottom edge so it isn't sharp. A 3/8 return would be better, but make sure you will be able to "snap it" around the top.

    I think you'd be fine with a good sheet of BC plywood, as long as there aren't any voids in the face.

    Glue.... ughh. The copper will eventually oilcan and pop. I would probably use PL construction adhesive.

    1/4 hard 20 oz.

    It helps to have a copper backing when you solder the corners.

    Wear gloves, fingerprints are a bear to get off.

    Maybe give Local 100 JATC a call. Ask them for a recommendation to buy the sheet from. I would have them bend it. It'll roll pretty bad doing by hand. You should be looking for a shop that does architectural copper work.

  7. #22

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Dickinson, Texas
    Posts
    7,655
    Blog Entries
    1

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •