I just ordered from Lake Erie and Anchora Yacht Services, have a couple or four weeks to get my act together.
My main questions regard the chop.
I am seeing a lot of folks using 12/4 stock, but then trimming the top of the chop back to half an inch or so so they can get at the workpiece. Is 12/4 really neccessary? If I really need 12/4 I will probably have to glue it up. One 8/4 glued to one 4/4 should put me in the ballpark. Is there a compelling reason I couldn't or shouldn't build the chop up to 12/4 thickness to match the thickness or depth of my benchtop, about the top 4 inches of the chop, and then run 8/4 down to the floor?
Is maple just traditional, or does it have a specific advantage over white oak or hickory? Weight maybe? I have been buying 8/4 in all three species lately for turning projects, I am leaning towards finding a piece of 8/4 that I can get some turning pieces out of and then use the not suitable for turning remainder as the chop.
I can visulaize the install, I feel darn good about it; but I would like to hear from folks that have been using them a while.
"I made my chop out of 8/4 butternut/white pine / figured walnut 25 years ago and it is great" is a valid data point. If I really need to glue up 12/4 from floor to bench top I would rather do it right the first time. "I started with an 8/4 chop but it flexed when I did ___ so I had to make a new 12/4 chop" also valid data point.
The other thing is I am old enough and wise enough to ask all y'all, what am I not asking that I should be asking? I recognize I don't know what I don't know.
Thanks in advance.