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Thread: Need tips to use a dado stack

  1. #1

    Need tips to use a dado stack

    Hi all,

    I got an entry level dado stack given I am doing lots of drawer with the lock rabbet. I have some challenges with the following and could use some tips.

    1) Installing the dado stack is fairly time consuming. Aligning the teeth isn't easy because when I tighten the nut on the arbor, some blades move. How can I keep every blade fixed relative to each other while tightening the whole thing? And it gets more tricky as we increase the dado width with more chipper blades.

    2) While cutting, I noticed the blades shift. The teeth are no longer aligned as originally. Having to move the fence to readjust the blades is defeating the purpose of using this setup for repeatable cuts. Would adding a second nut to the arbor help?

    Are these general problems or poor design of my cheap dado stack https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SZWOINU

    Many thanks
    Last edited by Lee Schierer; 01-11-2021 at 3:40 PM. Reason: Fixed link

  2. #2
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    Aside from not having the tips touching each other (which will keep the plates from touching) I've never noticed that any particular spacing makes any difference. I just roughly spread them out then don't worry about it.

    If they are moving in use you might need to tighten the stack down a bit more. I've never noticed that happening, but then I've never looked for it.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by joe webb View Post
    Hi all,

    I got an entry level dado stack given I am doing lots of drawer with the lock rabbet. I have some challenges with the following and could use some tips.

    1) Installing the dado stack is fairly time consuming. Aligning the teeth isn't easy because when I tighten the nut on the arbor, some blades move. How can I keep every blade fixed relative to each other while tightening the whole thing? And it gets more tricky as we increase the dado width with more chipper blades.

    2) While cutting, I noticed the blades shift. The teeth are no longer aligned as originally. Having to move the fence to readjust the blades is defeating the purpose of using this setup for repeatable cuts. Would adding a second nut to the arbor help?

    Are these general problems or poor design of my cheap dado stack (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SZWOINU)?

    Many thanks
    I don't understand why the blades rotating slightly during cutting changes the alignment such that you have to move the fence. The rotational position of the cutters with respect to each other should not change the width of the dado stack at all. Maybe you could provide a pic of your dado set installed? And the link you provided doesn't seem to be valid.

    If the cutters are pointing the correct direction and are aligned so they the tips don't touch, the center of the stack should be really solid, with the part of the outside blades and inside chippers solidly against one another right by the arbor.
    --I had my patience tested. I'm negative--

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Make sure the blades stack in firmly and tighten the nut more but no need to do a major tightening. If still having issues make shallow cuts, raise blade and repeat.

  5. #5
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    check for burrs around the arbor hole that prevent them touching side to side.
    Bill D

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul F Franklin View Post
    I don't understand why the blades rotating slightly during cutting changes the alignment such that you have to move the fence. The rotational position of the cutters with respect to each other should not change the width of the dado stack at all. Maybe you could provide a pic of your dado set installed? And the link you provided doesn't seem to be valid.

    If the cutters are pointing the correct direction and are aligned so they the tips don't touch, the center of the stack should be really solid, with the part of the outside blades and inside chippers solidly against one another right by the arbor.
    I tightened the stack as much as I could and that was my expectation the blades should not move respectively to each others. For example, for my drawers 1/4 dado, I only use the 2 outside blades with the spacer. Initially (after lots of tweaking) the tip of the second blade is positioned in the gullet of the first blade. But after 3 dozens of cut, I noticed they have moved as the tips from both blades are almost aligned side by side. Because the fence is right on top of the throat plate, I need to move it to tighten the dado stack again.

    The appearance of the cuts looks fine to me. But would it damage my blades if the tips keep rubbing against each other? The instructions say to align the tip into the gullet of the blades next to them, so I thought there must be a good reason it.

    Here is the link https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SZWOINU

    Thanks

  7. #7
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    It may be that the plate of the outer blade is hitting the shoulder on the smooth part of the arbor or the nut is bottoming out on the threads because you aren't using the arbor washer and not allowing you to tighten the stack completely. If you aren't using the washer on the arbor you should be until you reach the upper thickness of your dado stack. I would wiggle the stack as you are tightening the arbor nut and washer, at first by hand and then with the arbor wrench. I usually grip the blade or stack between my fingers and tight until the blade starts to slip in my fingers.

    Carbide teeth are generally slightly wider that the plate of the blade. If the teeth are aligned they can press against each other and possibly chip or break. That is the reason for aligning teeth to gullets. The chippers don't have to be perfectly spaced, but no teeth should touch.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by joe webb View Post
    1) Installing the dado stack is fairly time consuming. Aligning the teeth isn't easy because when I tighten the nut on the arbor, some blades move. How can I keep every blade fixed relative to each other while tightening the whole thing? And it gets more tricky as we increase the dado width with more chipper blades.
    Yeah, it can take a few minutes to set a Dado Blade and often the chippers (the thingies in the middle) hang up on the arbor. If the teeth aren't touching each other, then the blades ought to press together easily and not move. Move the chippers around a bit and make sure they are well seated against the next blade before moving on. They should not move back and forth. Now, if they're moving front to back, around the arbor, that's no big deal. You don't have to be slavish and have each chipper evenly spaced to each other.

    Quote Originally Posted by joe webb View Post
    2) While cutting, I noticed the blades shift. The teeth are no longer aligned as originally. Having to move the fence to readjust the blades is defeating the purpose of using this setup for repeatable cuts. Would adding a second nut to the arbor help?
    The blades should not be shifting at all once you tighten that rascal down. Again, I move the chippers to and fro, right and left, so they seat firmly to the blade next to the chipper. If the chippers get hung up on the arbor, no harm in taking some 80 grit sand paper and giving the inside arbor hole a very quick sanding to smooth off any burrs left in the stamping process.

    Quote Originally Posted by joe webb View Post
    Are these general problems or poor design of my cheap dado stack https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SZWOINU
    Your blade selection is pretty typical of most dado blades and $50 while certainly not top of the line, is a respectable price for dado blade with a full set of chippers and shims. I think the problem is with your technique not the blade. Take your time.
    Regards,

    Tom

  9. #9
    Dados suffer from being clanked around. There are conflicting ideas on how to use them. Here is some guidance .
    In your own shop with your own set, you handle them carefully ,because you can never forget the cost. Now it gets
    more complicated. Working as an employee in a commercial place run by the boss; you use them same way. BUT in a
    shop run by a foreman ....especially one who got the job by marraige, you have to handle dados quickly! One of those
    "damn the torpedoes! full speed ahead !" things. If you don't do that ,his pet rat, will tell him : "Don't know why some of
    these guys take so long to set up and take down dados. I'm much faster! And I need a raise!" But if the real boss owner
    runs the place then you treat his dados just the same as your own.

  10. #10
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    Something I learned. Fit the complete dado set on the arbor, do a test cut with scrap. Then look to see if the blades and all the chippers are cutting to the same depth. It is not unusual to find they are not.

    To save yourself frustration and extra work, take the complete set to a sharpening service for grinding and sharpening to the same diameter. Same when only the blades or a a few chipper need sharpening -- do the whole set!

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    Does your saw have an electric brake? Most dado stacks come loose when you shut off the saw and the weight of the stack loosens the nut. I've never had a long enough arbor to add another nut.

  12. #12
    The easiest explanation of the observations you report is you had teeth touching when you tightened the nut. If only the plates were touching, a normally tightened nut should prevent rotation (like it does for the normal table saw blade). I've never used a dado blade with that many teeth (the outer ones). That makes me wonder if perhaps they might not all be spaced correctly such that they can all miss each other. You can just stack them to check. I have also used a 5/8 bolt sometimes to stack them in advance to determine what spacers I need. That could allow you to check the fitup. But if you have a chipper in, then the outer blades cannot touch so unless the chipper is not designed right, you should be able to assembly without any carbide cutters touching each other. It's a lot easier to check fitup on a bolt than a blade arbor. You might want to get one to see if you can see what is happening.

  13. #13
    You do need to tighten dados with the wrench. Keeps them from what we pros call "carbide chipping from putting a bad
    spin on it". Confine your desire for automation to letting single saw spin. You can do your undoing by using a soft and
    clean piece of wood between between saw teeth and table top to keep the stack still.
    Last edited by Mel Fulks; 01-11-2021 at 7:21 PM. Reason: clarity

  14. #14
    Thanks all for your suggestions and help. I will look for those things the next time.

    I wanted to clarify few things. I am a DIYer so I can take my time. I was more wondering if I was doing something wrong here and trying to learn from the pro here how to properly and quickly put on the dado stack. I do use that big washer with the nut just like with a standard single blade. I did 1/4 and 1/2 width dados. Even with 1/2, the arbor is long enough to fit the nut & washer. 3/4 looks possible w/ my arbor length. With my entry level job site table saw, I need to use 2 wrenches (one in each hand) to tighten the nut and haven't found a way to keep the blades still while tightening.

    I didn't notice the blade shifting until I did the 1/4 dado. Because no chipper is used, the 2 outer blades are side by side and the tip of the blades are offset by just 1/4" apart. Then when they shift, the tip doesn't align with the gullet anymore and it is very apparent in this 2-blade configuration.

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