restoration question on a walker turner bandsaw

[Timothy Robinson]

Sha-wing...but also DANG. Good to find them available but that is an expensive li'l bearing.

[Ronald Blue]

They used a tap that seemed it was worn out so the finished hole diameter was too small. No way to run the bolt in by fingers more then 1 turn then hard wrenching all the way. I would, say a worn tap but there were several different size holes so I am guessing it was intentional. Like they used a GL tap instead of a class 2 tap.
Bill D

It's also a way to make the stud solid without any additional hardware. A square shoulder tightens up against casting and is extremely solid.

[Bob Vallaster]

Tim,

Thanks for the info on your parts resource.
Sorry, no pix. The parts are painted and shelved, awaiting a base build. When the base is on wheels, I will assemble the machine atop it and spare myself having to lift a more complete (and heavier) machine.

BobV

[Timothy Robinson]

IMG_2228.jpgSo it's about to start going back together. No base as of yet but I have angle and a welder and a stupid quantity of guts.

[Timothy Robinson]

Hey Bob, what size is your WT? And does the tracking assembly have problems on yours? Mine looks like this IMG_2194.jpgThe bent bit is the threaded hole through which the tracking screw travels to push the axle. This is a bit of inferior design I think. It is pot metal and the threads are cut directly into it. For whatever reason it bent and cracked and the threads are wallowed out. The tension spring is housed in this as well and also the two guide bolts for the tension assembly. They go through copper bushings but here is this thing with threads in it...made out of pot metal. Grrr. Thinking of finding a machinist to remake this from a block of mild steel. I don't think I'd like to sacrifice the space for a rear mount of the motor. Seems like a hinged under-mount will house the whole thing pulling straight down and helping with inherent stability.

[Joe Jensen]

FYI, Woodworker's Tool Works has the blade guide backup bearing-http://store.woodworkerstoolworks.co...r-guide-wheel/
They also have tires.
Rick

Unless the outer steel ring is badly worn, you can press the shaft out and the ring off and buy a bearing for way less. I'm rebuilding a 30" Tannewitz. The rear bearing assembly is over $100. A premium bearing was $9.00,

[Bob Vallaster]

Tim,

Mine is a 14" like yours. I had worries over that same part. I have owned Delta 14s since I started woodworking and know blade tracking & tension assemblies to be a vulnerable area. A little cruising through owwm.org showed the WT assembly to have its own share of bad repute. So I proceeded to disassembly under a dark cloud. There was evidence a past user had turned the adjustment screw 'way too far in, run the tip of the screw off the edge of the tilt lever it contacts and boogered the screw thread, but no parts were bent or cracked. I used a thread file to clean up the threads and succeeded in backing it out without spoiling the threads in the pot metal. Got it all apart, cleaned and reassembled as a unit.

If you haven't done it yet: go to owwm.org and join up. That component has recently been a hot topic and there is a discussion among several who have considered repairs or making a replacement part (in steel)...with a half-dozen others chiming in to place orders if someone goes into production. I followed the discussion and joined the forum so I could post if/when the need arose. I dodged that bullet and stopped following the discussion.

You're right about putting the motor underneath. I took measurements on my motor this weekend and was pleased to find it will fit on a stand we scored at a garage sale. Onward and upward. Waiting on the heavy lifting for my more-able second to pay a visit.

BobV

[Timothy Robinson]

I need to construct a base for this saw. Any suggestions as to what is optimal?
IMG_2228.jpg

[Timothy Robinson]

Here is what I ended up with...Found a scrap piece of 1/2" MS at a local machine shop and paid them $20 to drill and tap a hole through the middle (I knew I couldn't get it accurate). I did the rest myself..IMG_2337.jpgIMG_2338.jpgIMG_2339.jpgIMG_2340.jpgIMG_2341.jpgBlatant plagiarism of someone else's brilliant idea. And much cheaper than having a new entire tension/tracking unit milled.

[Timothy Robinson]

I made myself a poster board template of a blade guard and tried bending it up from a scrap/remnant of the SS cabinet left after demoting my old propane grill, but it's too wonky. I need a friend with a pan-brake.