[OP]
Member
Hey anybody, I am in the process of tearing down a Walker Turner 14" bandsaw and ran into a li'l snag. The threaded stud under the table on the back side (outfeed) of the saw which governs the tension on table angle trunion...How does one get it out. I'd like to lap the cast iron surface before putting everything back together but theres this stud sticking out and has no flat grip surface or socket for a driver of any kind. What gives?IMG_2140.jpg
Member
That stud has 5/8-18 tpi thread on the big end you can see. The part buried in the casting is threaded 1/2-24 like the neighboring holes on either side. Get two 5/8-18 nuts, thread them on the stud and clench them against each other. Turn the inner nut counterclockwise to back the stud out. A less elegant solution would be to use vice-grips on the unthreaded portion of the stud, but you're likely to scar the area where the jaws bite...
BobV
[OP]
Member
Thanks, Bob. I figured the stud had locktite or something on the body end and thought it near certain I'd screw the screw up with a pair of vise grips. I'll source said nut then. Thanks. Have you seen any odd blade guides lying about?
Contributor
Big stud Like that I would use. a small pipe wrench rather then big vise grips. Let penetrating oil soak in for a week or so and heat let it cool several times to break the grip of rust. Heat to under 350 F.
Bill D.
Contributor
Why not double nut it, torque the nuts tightly, then put the wrench on the bottom nut to remove it. Mix a little transmission fluid and acetone then let that soak in to fight old rust.
Member
Tim,
My stud came out with the method described. Might predate LockTite. Not enough corrosion to inhibit removal. Penetrant and heat are always helpful.
org
Sorry, but no joy on stray blade guides. My best guess for those would be a want-to-buy ad on OWWM.org's BOYD (bring out your dead) classified section. Your opportunity to find them would broaden if you research whether the guides for the 14" are same as the 16" I don't know the answer, but observe that the thrust bearings behind the blade appear to be the same (I could use some myself).
BobV
Contributor
My WT bandsaw many of the bolts were in holes that were tapped small. This may have been a wartime method to save on lockwashers? I ran a tap don most of the bigger hole sand cut a little in each one.
Bill D
[OP]
Member
Bob, I used the double nut method and it turned right out. A 24mm open end wrench and a trip to "rural king" for the grade 5 5/8x18 nut got er done. For anyone else who is following this thread, I have just acquired some u-drive rivet screws for the machinery tags. I think my jointer takes #2x1/4 fasteners but I only need three of them. Haven't investigated the necesaries for the bandsaw yet. Anyway, I got em comin' off of the auction site. And a quote is pending from the guy in CT that has the WT boneyard. It might be possible that I'll get this thing back to rights before I forget my name.
Originally Posted by Bob Vallaster
[OP]
Member
By the way, a thought occured to me regarding the rivet/screws. Some people report having a bit of trouble getting them out. Using a dremel to cut a screwdriver slot in them might work but also endangers the tag from any little slip with the spinny thing. Might be a better idea to peen the domed head flat, punch it, drill it and use an easy-out. I watched the videos on tag restoration and am gonna get into that but I'm looking for methods of straightening them out. Maybe a J-roller and a lot of pressure against a lapping surface?
Also, after you color the field and sand the high spots do y'all go back and clear-coat to protect your work?
[OP]
Member
Bill, what do you mean by "tapped small"?
[OP]
Member
I found this thing on facebook marketplace. it was a bit out of my area. Had to drive a couple of hours to get a look. I decided to buy it and got it for $150 but it was on a cobbled together wooden stand and the motor is cheap-o. I'm going to have to find or build a stand and I'm pretty sure somebody smart has figured out the ideal distance between the hinge point and shaft to mount the motor underneath. Would you share your hard-won wisdom? Also, do we like wire-wheeling or sand-blasting or chemical strippers for paint and corrosion on something this size. I'm in process on this bandsaw and also a WT jointer and while I'm not completely in love with "easy" I do like it quite a bit. I'd like the outside to look like a 40s Buick when I'm done with it and for the inside to be smooth enough to NOT catch and hold every flake of sawdust it generates. It is not so now.
Member
Tim,
It appears your project is moving quickly.
When we cleaned ours up, son and I used a blowgun to knock off the dust, disassembled it, then gave everything a wash with solvent and/or detergent. Rust was minor, but she was wearing at least two coats of paint. We masked off machined surfaces and threaded stems, then (temp) plugged holes to protect from grit erosion or fouling. Then we used a blaster with medium grit on iron and steel parts. Changed to glass media for the aluminum and machined iron surfaces. Tried walnut shell, but coarse and fine grades just jammed the hose of our siphon-fed HF blaster. Still going after the smaller pieces with wire toothbrush and non-woven pads. Haven't done the table top yet, but will use a razor blade followed by medium non-woven pad on the hook-n-loop of my ROS, then wax. New paint looks spiffy.
Like you, we will have to fab a stand and will try to hang it underneath. It would be nice to have the factory outboard mount, but as with all parts they're not making those anymore.
Will appreciate the details for the WT boneyard in CT if you can share. PM maybe.
BobV
Contributor
FYI, Woodworker's Tool Works has the blade guide backup bearing-http://store.woodworkerstoolworks.co...r-guide-wheel/
They also have tires.
Rick
Contributor
They used a tap that seemed it was worn out so the finished hole diameter was too small. No way to run the bolt in by fingers more then 1 turn then hard wrenching all the way. I would, say a worn tap but there were several different size holes so I am guessing it was intentional. Like they used a GL tap instead of a class 2 tap.
Bill D
[OP]
Member
Bob, that guy in CT has almost NO web presence. In communication with him he says it doesn't serve much purpose to keep a running inventory list. I disagree but it's his store. The only way you're going to get him is email. His email address is wtservice@walkerturnerllc.com. Just tell him what you have and what you need. He's pretty good about getting back to you in a day or two. Have any pictures of yours?
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