Table saw - Mortiser - Sliding stop builds.

[Brian Holcombe]

Mills are very versatile, I've never really felt the need to buy a drill press for that reason even though if I had the space I'd probably add one.

For the mill, I suggest a boring/facing head, tap-matic head, albrecht chuck, indexible cutter heads and lots of collets in addition to end mills, reamers, etc.

A good boring head really makes a mill into an incredible machine, single point cutters will not be influenced by the existing hole when you cut something so they are one of few tools that can move position and recut a hole accurately. I had a ‘whoops’ on this project that required me to do so and the boring head rescued me.

A tapping head allows the use of thread ‘forming’ taps for use in most metals (not cast iron), that are professional quality threads which are much stronger and finer than cut threads.

You'll also need two nice vises and a rotary table along with parallels and a t-nut and stud kit

I've used big indexable mills up until this point but I'll probably be added a fly cutter soon, oddly enough I've waited this long to get one since the need has not really arisen and I'll probably also buy a wobble broaching setup soon for some square and hexagonal holes I'd like to make in certain projects.

With enough collets to hold parts you can also do knurling in the mill.

[Mark Hennebury]

I would love to get mill again; I had an old manual Bridgeport years ago, but i have been thinking about a small CNC mill as I would like to produce some tools. Are you going to stick with a manual or do you plan on going cnc anytime?

Mills are very versatile, I've never really felt the need to buy a drill press for that reason even though if I had the space I'd probably add one.

For the mill, I suggest a boring/facing head, tap-matic head, albrecht chuck, indexible cutter heads and lots of collets in addition to end mills, reamers, etc.

A good boring head really makes a mill into an incredible machine, single point cutters will not be influenced by the existing hole when you cut something so they are one of few tools that can move position and recut a hole accurately. I had a ‘whoops’ on this project that required me to do so and the boring head rescued me.

A tapping head allows the use of thread ‘forming’ taps for use in most metals (not cast iron), that are professional quality threads which are much stronger and finer than cut threads.

You'll also need two nice vises and a rotary table along with parallels and a t-nut and stud kit

I've used big indexable mills up until this point but I'll probably be added a fly cutter soon, oddly enough I've waited this long to get one since the need has not really arisen and I'll probably also buy a wobble broaching setup soon for some square and hexagonal holes I'd like to make in certain projects.

With enough collets to hold parts you can also do knurling in the mill.

[Brian Holcombe]

Probably best to have both, but mills capable of cutting stainless or cast iron in the CNC world are pretty far outside of my budget at the moment so I'll stick with manual for now.

Ideal for me would be a large format Euro-style horizontal mill, they're a brick out-house extremely versatile. I like the knee mill because I grew up on it but I think the Euro format is more rigid and generally has better tapers (40 taper vs R8, etc).