Do we really need another video on how to make a table saw crosscut sled ? YES !

[Warren Lake]

the old guys sled was loose for likely 30 years. When I asked how he cuts square he said he just holds it to one side and its bang on.

[Kris Cook]

Just saw this for the first time. Your video is excellent. Good presentation.

[Rick Potter]

I noticed the screws in the face of your fence in the video. Did you have to shim the fence to get it flat? I notice my like fence is a bit off of straight.

Thanks,

[Minh Tran]

Remember to put finish on your sled! I built one two years ago in my unfinished garage that witnesses ~80% RH and temperature swings 0-85 deg F (New England). The base has warped and it's all but junk.

I'm due for another one and somethings I'd like to do differently:
1. Aluminum adjustable miter bars (runners). They're pricey but won't weather. They can be reused.
2. Baltic birch plywood base. Waterbased Poly finish.
3. (4) T-Tracks, parallel to the miter bars, two inside two outside, on the the base to allow the back fence to be adjusted for squareness. The inner tracks can host clamps. T-bolt to thread from underside with tightening knobs on top. Hole cut in the front fence for clamp removal.

#3 is a new technique for me because it's awkward to get underneath the sled to nudge it into place. If it isn't square, you also have to offset your screws.

[Howard Rosenberg]

Steven,

Fabulous video! You're an excellent communicator and you made a lot of disparate info super-clear.

Also - it was great seeing a Toronto Public Library card being put to such good use! And where are you from originally in the Maritimes?

And - never need to apologize - keep em coming!

Many thanks.

[Steve Demuth]

1. Aluminum adjustable miter bars (runners). They're pricey but won't weather. They can be reused.

I build all my sleds and jigs with HDPE runners. Easy to machine, and if you mount it with a countersunk conical head screw, you can adjust it for a perfect fit simply by changing the tension on the screw. Much less expensive than aluminum ($40 will get you enough to make 24" runners at Rockers, e.g.), and simpler to work with.

[Steve Demuth]

It is true that plywood changes less than solid wood's changes across the grain (radial and tangential), but it changes MORE than solid wood's longitudinal changes. The alternating layers fight one another but reach a comprimise.

In my experience, the actual change at the scale relevant for sleds is minimal. The US Forest Product's Laboratory reckons it's about 0.0002" per inch per 10 percentage point of relative humidity change. The figures up to less than 0.004" over the course of season change across the span of the two miter slots on my table saw, and it's consistent with my experience - my favorite crosscut sled with two runners works winter, spring, summer and fall in my shop with no climate control.

I make most jigs with only a single runner, but plywood movement isn't the reason. Two runners simply aren't necessary, and are work to get calibrated.