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Thread: rail and stile size on bathroom vanity

  1. #1

    rail and stile size on bathroom vanity

    I'm trying to maximize opening sizes so am looking for advice on minimizing rail and stile widths, and still have it look correct. I'll be looking to do full-overlay (doors in center, drawers on two sides). I have to have the outside stiles be a little wider to allow for scribing when installing. (fitting in between two walls).

    I've started with a top rail of 3 inches, right and left outside stiles at 2 1/2 and two middle stiles at 2 inches. I figure I can go to 1 1/2 for the inside stiles but not sure how they will look with wider outside stiles. Also not sure about the top stile of 3 inches. How narrow can I go with that one.
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  2. #2
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    So.....if you have full overlay doors and drawers, why not go frameless except for scribe strips on the sides and make the doors and drawers half overlay? You won't ever see the size of the rails and stiles and you maximize access to interior.

    Or am I missing something?
    --I had my patience tested. I'm negative--

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul F Franklin View Post
    So.....if you have full overlay doors and drawers, why not go frameless except for scribe strips on the sides and make the doors and drawers half overlay? You won't ever see the size of the rails and stiles and you maximize access to interior.

    Or am I missing something?
    No good reason. My only experience with frameless has been using iron-on edge banding and I'm not so happy with that. I could use solid wood edging; so I'd just use wider stock for that on the right and left for scribing. I'll check that out. Thanks!

  4. #4
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    My preferance is for rails and stiles to be same width. My rational is it looks balanced.

    You may find it difficult to fit the face frame needing to scribe both ends. Suggestion is to fit to the narrowest width and use a scribe molding to cover/hide the gap.

    My thoughts and suggestions are worth what you paid for them, but they are free.
    George

    Making sawdust regularly, occasionally a project is completed.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by George Bokros View Post
    Suggestion is to fit to the narrowest width and use a scribe molding to cover/hide the gap.
    That is what I would do. The thought of trying to scribe between two walls for a vanity gives me horror thoughts.

  6. #6
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    only experience with frameless has been using iron-on edge banding and I'm not so happy with that
    why ?

    because it’s thin , you have to iron it ? something else ?

  7. #7
    If you are trying to maximize space, why are you using a 3 inch top rail? On my kitchen and bath cabinets with full overlay doors and drawer faces, I will use top and bottom rails as narrow as 1 inch to maximize vertical space. With true overlay doors, the gaps between the doors/drawer faces are usually 3/32". In that case the proportions of the face frame don't matter since it is covered. As far as scribing between two walls, I usually scribe the face frame by itself and then attach it to the cabinet. It is much easier to maneuver the face frame by itself when fitting it into the opening. As far as the outside stiles, 2 1/2 inches may be excessive unless it is necessary for the doors and/or drawers to clear adjacent trim, towel racks, etc.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by George Bokros View Post
    My preferance is for rails and stiles to be same width. My rational is it looks balanced.
    Visually, the lower rail is often taller because from the average distance that folks view the unit, that will visually make it seem the same height as the shorter upper rail(s) due to the angle.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #9
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    Expanding on what Jim said, I made up sample doors to show our pro decorator and she definitely wanted wider bottom rails. We are going for larger, so doors will be 3" stiles and top rail and bottom rail 3.5"

    Like Rob, we are varying the rails on drawers - 1.5/2 on 6-5/8" top drawer, 2.25/2.75 on 11" middle drawer and 2.625/3.5 on bottom 13" drawers - the bottom rail will match adjoining doors. All stiles still 3".

  10. #10
    I look at 2-3 inches as normal but I used narrower in a bathroom cabinet that is not very wide. I am not a "sketchup" person. For any significant project I use an old parallel line board to sketch up at least one view of the project to scale. That lets me check proportions and helps a lot with planning for what material I need. I jot notes on the sketch as I decide how I want to do things. One 8.5x11 scale sketch (or drawing if you prefer) is typically my only plan. But it is an important step. It is not unusual for me to draw the doors a couple different ways. Not everybody can visualize a project from a simple sketch but it works for me.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Dwight View Post
    I look at 2-3 inches as normal but I used narrower in a bathroom cabinet that is not very wide. I am not a "sketchup" person. For any significant project I use an old parallel line board to sketch up at least one view of the project to scale. That lets me check proportions and helps a lot with planning for what material I need. I jot notes on the sketch as I decide how I want to do things. One 8.5x11 scale sketch (or drawing if you prefer) is typically my only plan. But it is an important step. It is not unusual for me to draw the doors a couple different ways. Not everybody can visualize a project from a simple sketch but it works for me.
    I'm with Jim, I don't have sketchup, I don't see the need for 3D. Maybe it's because I work from prints for a living? But in any case I had a free 2D version of cad, until they nixed it this year. So I use the old school method of paper and pencil when I want to work out proportions. Just did this on the router table case I'm building for the front view, It also doubles as a story stick to pull dimensions from.

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