Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 18

Thread: Make a kerfing chisel

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,494

    Make a kerfing chisel

    In 2011 I posted an article on a kerfing chisel, a tool used to deepen the kerf in half-blind dovetails.





    The idea for this came from a method used by Tage Frid, who used either a scraper blade or, as I viewed in a video, a section of bandsaw blade. The kerfing chisel was my effort at making a specific tool, rather than buggering up a prized scraper blade.


    In the years since, I am aware of two similar tools, the first was by Ron Bontz and the second by Rob Cosman. Both are shaped like saws, complete with brass backs and scraper plates. They do the same thing.


    Over the years I have received many queries how to make a kerfing chisel, and this posed a problem since I had made it from a steel gardening trowel/spatula. These can be difficult to find. I have been thinking of other ways to make this easier for anyone interested in rolling their own. This is what I came up with ...


    At the moment I am testing out a few different sizes ...





    Top is Jarrah and bottom is Hard Maple.


    A few others ...





    The parts include a scraper blade (these are 0.03" thick). I was curious to see whether this would create a problem when dovetail saws have a 0.026" kerf (0.02" plate plus 0.003" set, which is considered "fine"). A ferrule is made from brass tube.





    Turn the handle, and then saw the slot for the blade using a bandsaw. Place the handle on a V-jig to hold it steady. Ensure that the shaft matches the depth of the ferrule (so that is bottoms out against the end of the handle). Epoxy everything together.


    So why is a kerfing tool so useful that it warrants being made into a specialised tool?


    Here is a half-blind pin board socket being sawn. Note the diagonal angle, which leaves half the socket ...





    This is where the kerfing chisel is used: First clamp the ends of the pin board. The edge of the blade is squared (not bevelled like a chisel), but it has the potential to split or cleave a board. The clamp helps prevent this.





    Tap the blade into the kerf, to full depth, moving towards the boundary line a little at a time - be especially careful with the outside kerfs, where there is less support.





    I have been doing this for a decade and may have had 2 or 3 splits in all this time, mainly from being careless.


    When chopping into the socket, the deepened kerf will make it easier to split out the waste ...





    The blue tape makes it easier for older eyes to see lines ...





    Cleaning out the waste is significantly easier ..





    Removing waste leaves clean sides to the sockets ...





    This is saw-to-saw cut ...





    Regards from Perth


    Derek
    Last edited by Derek Cohen; 01-10-2021 at 12:48 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Ingleside, IL
    Posts
    1,417
    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    In 2011 I posted an article on a kerfing chisel, a tool used to deepen the kerf in half-blind dovetails.
    ............


    In the years since, I am aware of two similar tools, the first was by Ron Bontz and the second by Rob Cosman. Both are shaped like saws, complete with brass backs and scraper plates. They do the same thing.

    Regards from Perth
    Derek
    Crown Tools also makes one, which I bought on Amazon for 25 bucks a year ago, and it works great. But I like your chisel style and will probably make one some day.

    2021-01-09_11h23_45.png
    Stand for something, or you'll fall for anything.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Lafayette, CA
    Posts
    844
    Bill, I can’t find the tool you describe. Do you have a link?

  4. #4
    Taylor Toolworks has it on their site for $19.99, though Sold Out.

    https://www.amazon.com/Dovetail-Kerf.../dp/B07H549F7C


    Sorry to distract from Derek's post.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Lafayette, CA
    Posts
    844
    Nathan, I think something smells fishy about not being able to get the Tay Tools kerfer. Could there be patent problems somewhere? Seems unlikely when you consider it's like patenting a saw, but just when premium brands are gaining traction we no longer see the bargain basement tool. Sorry to foment rumors: I know how this sounds. But remember, just because you're paranoid doesn't mean the world ISN'T out to get you.

    Just kidding here, but not entirely about the Tay Tools tool.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    springfield,or
    Posts
    644
    Bob
    I did a little research and it is on Amazon but unavailable. It is being sold by Taytools.
    I went directly to Taytools website and it is also unavailable but it lists for $20.

    My other question is why couldn't you just use their 4" gents was to do the same thing?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Lafayette, CA
    Posts
    844
    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    In 2011 I posted an article on a kerfing chisel, a tool used to deepen the kerf in half-blind dovetails.





    The idea for this came from a method used by Tage Frid, who used either a scraper blade or, as I viewed in a video, a section of bandsaw blade. The kerfing chisel was my effort at making a specific tool, rather than buggering up a prized scraper blade.


    Regards from Perth


    Derek
    Derek, thanks again for your always-informative discussions. I'm not in a position to make one as you describe, so I'm going to hobble along with my scraper blade for a while and see where that leads me.

    All the best,
    Bob

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    springfield,or
    Posts
    644
    Derek
    How come you pictures cannot be clicked on / zoomed in on? I generally view from Mobile and can click on each picture to enlarge it, but yours are the exception.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Lafayette, CA
    Posts
    844
    Derek probably drags the photo file into the post instead of using SMC’s link feature. I’ve done that a few times and gotten results that resemble his. On your phone you can just enlarge his photos directly in the post without the need to tap on them.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Longview WA
    Posts
    27,453
    Blog Entries
    1
    Great post Derek, my only suggestion would be for people to try cutting a third kerf in the waste between the pins. Try it and you will find it makes popping out the waste so much easier.
    This hasn't been tried with my Ron Bontz Kerf Maker but there have been those who say it can be used vertically.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Jones 5443 View Post
    Nathan, I think something smells fishy about not being able to get the Tay Tools kerfer. Could there be patent problems somewhere? Seems unlikely when you consider it's like patenting a saw, but just when premium brands are gaining traction we no longer see the bargain basement tool. Sorry to foment rumors: I know how this sounds. But remember, just because you're paranoid doesn't mean the world ISN'T out to get you.

    Just kidding here, but not entirely about the Tay Tools tool.
    Quote Originally Posted by Michael J Evans View Post
    Bob
    I did a little research and it is on Amazon but unavailable. It is being sold by Taytools.
    I went directly to Taytools website and it is also unavailable but it lists for $20.

    My other question is why couldn't you just use their 4" gents was to do the same thing?
    Bob, Michael, have you gone shopping of late? Many merchants are having supply problems. You will likely see the Tay Tools Kerfer in stock again. No telling when.

    $19.99, $20 look the same to me.

    A 4" Gents saw with the teeth filed down would likely be a useable alternative. If you search > 4 inch gents saw < you will see a Crown #187m listed at Walmart and on ebay for $19.94. Walmart may be online order only my interest ended with the search result.

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael J Evans View Post
    Derek
    How come you pictures cannot be clicked on / zoomed in on? I generally view from Mobile and can click on each picture to enlarge it, but yours are the exception.
    Dereks images are hosted on his own site. Others do the same. Sadly if a member hosting their own images leaves us the images they have shared slowly leave with them. Others post them from internet storage firms. When some of them started charging rent for storage other images were lost.

    jtk
    Last edited by Jim Koepke; 01-09-2021 at 2:46 PM. Reason: wording
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Ingleside, IL
    Posts
    1,417
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Jones 5443 View Post
    Bill, I can’t find the tool you describe. Do you have a link?

    Just saw you question, but others have answered it. The only drawback to it is that it's a .025 plate, and my Bad Axe saw is .02. So it required a bit of time on a stone but it wasn't a big deal.
    Stand for something, or you'll fall for anything.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Lafayette, CA
    Posts
    844
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Koepke View Post

    Bob, Michael, have you gone shopping of late? Many merchants are having supply problems. You will likely see the Tay Tools Kerfer in stock again. No telling when.

    $19.99, $20 look the same to me.

    A 4" Gents saw with the teeth filed down would likely be a useable alternative. If you search > 4 inch gents saw < you will see a Crown #187m listed at Walmart and on ebay for $19.94. Walmart may be online order only my interest ended with the search result.

    jtk
    Jim, as with so many times before, you are the go-to reference for stuff we need. Thanks for the note about the Crown. Trouble might be that its plate is 0.020", and I want to push down at the thickness of the saw's kerf. With the Cosman saw, that's 0.024". So I guess I'll still stick with my 0.025" scraper for now.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Lafayette, CA
    Posts
    844
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Carey View Post
    Just saw you question, but others have answered it. The only drawback to it is that it's a .025 plate, and my Bad Axe saw is .02. So it required a bit of time on a stone but it wasn't a big deal.
    Bill, if yours was 0.025", I'd like to find another one if possible.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Lafayette, CA
    Posts
    844
    You can buy the Crown 187m on Amazon right now, but the descriptions available on eBay, copied apparently from Hartville Tool's copy, are confusing: plate 0.020" but kerf 0.037"??? What, the teeth have a 0.085" set on both sides? In any case, the plate is all I need for this purpose, and it's too narrow.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,494
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Carey View Post
    Just saw you question, but others have answered it. The only drawback to it is that it's a .025 plate, and my Bad Axe saw is .02. So it required a bit of time on a stone but it wasn't a big deal.
    I have been doing a little experimenting with plate thickness, and so far it seems that this does not make any significant difference.

    Most saw plates are 0.02” thick. Then add 0.003 - 0.004” each side for the set of the saw, and you end up with something closer to 0.03” than 0.025”.

    Then there is the accuracy of sawing to the line - how close can you get? Are you within 0.003 of the line, or less. In other words, are you changing the socket size? I do not think so.

    Plate thickness will affect how easily it cuts into the wood. However, this is affected by how big a bite one takes. That also is determined by the hardness, and brittleness, of the wood.

    I measured some of the cabinet scrapers in my collection. They were mostly greater than 0.03”. Paint scrapers from the big box were greater than this, and some have used these successfully.

    Bottom line: at this time I would argue that a blade up to 0.03” is fine.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •