I need to figure out what to do with this

[Frank Pratt]

Whatever you make, please share. Those are outstanding. I think it would be a shame to cut them up to make small boxes (though they would be spectacular boxes).

[Myles Moran]

Making the neck is so rewarding because it’s perceived to be very challenging to non woodworkers. But with an intermediate woodworker’s eye and tools it is straightforward.

I definitely agree. I also enjoy having a well shaped volute at the end, and that's not readily available unless you're making it yourself.

That said, the first guitar I built had a neck like a baseball bat because I was afraid of getting the truss rod cavity too thin. My subsequent attempt was much better and the profile ended up with something very playable.

[Bill Dufour]

Consider donating it to a local college for their wood library. I have walked down the halls of the agriculture building at UC Berkely, Giannini Hall. They have off cuts of trees from around the world of all kinds of wood with labels screwed to the wall. The department started in 1868 and moved to the new building around 1912 so lots of stuff no longer available in huge old growth examples.
Bill D

[justin byers]

Well you’ve convinced me. I’m going to order a stew Mac tele hardware kit and template, and I think I’ll buy a warmoth neck for the first one, I’m sure I’ll make one eventually, but for the first I think I’ll buy one. I’m thinking sipo mahogany for the body and a dark neck, too bad we can’t ship rosewood necks to Canada. I’ve got a big ol board of Brazilian rosewood waiting for when I build my first neck, but until then... any more tools or things I’m gonna need?

[Myles Moran]

The only other tool that comes to mind is a soldering iron for putting the electronics together. Using a prebuilt neck means you shouldn't need metric or specific sized drill bits for the tuners. As for the neck connection, you'll probably want to have a self centering drill bit to get the neck attachment screws placed precisely. The rest of the build is just some quality time with the router, bandsaw, and sanding.

[Jim Becker]

If you want really easy for the electronics (pickups and wiring) GFS (GuitarFetish) has pre-wired harnesses and vary good pickup options that use their KwikPlug setup. There's zero soldering.

[Prashun Patel]

I think you should start a new thread here and on the other website called "My first telecaster build" You'll attract lots of helpful and encouraging responses.

I would plan out all the steps beforehand before cutting or shaping.

A spindle sander is really convenient for solid body guitars with their hard-to-access curves up around the neck and horns

Beware your templates from Stewmac. They call for a front route of the control cavity and the channel from the neck pickup to the control panel. YOU should do a rear mount control panel so you don't hide your wood. This makes mounting the controls a little more painful, but it's doable. You can also eliminate the pickup channel, but this will require a long drill between the 2 cavities. That is always a bear. I advise routing this channel in the middle ply of your body before gluing on the top plate or rear showcase plates.

Having a good template / pattern / flush trim router bit helps a lot. I invested in a couple from Whiteside at 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4" depth - the kinds with the bearing mounted closest to the shank. Then I have a long one with the bearing at the tip (sorry, top mounted/bottom mounted terminology confuses me...). The first ones are great for mortising.



Some other doodads you may need to order if not in your kit:

Nut (I got a Fender style tusq nut from Graphtec)
String trees
Knobs (there are a million Amzn. There are 2 types: CTS and Alpha; make sure they fit your POTS.
Switch harness: Jim's right about Guitar Fetish. Madhatter and Mojotone make pre-wired harnesses that avoid you having to solder. These come with the jack also wired.
Jack cup to mount the jack to the body.


Consider the kind of finish you want on it. Those beautiful veneers beg IMHO for a high gloss finish. You can rub out a good varnish or lacquer (if you have HVLP) with rubbing compounds and fine grit sandpaper.

Last, I highly recommend the videos on 'tube by Maximum Guitar Works. He does a whole Tele build and really outlines every step of the way. Very watchable.

Other great video resources are Crimson Guitar and Highline and Fletcher...

[justin byers]

That’s appealing for sure! I’ve got a buddy who’s an electrical engineer that was gonna help me, but that would be even easier. Is there a preferred template or will the stew Mac one do?

[Prashun Patel]

The ones from Stewmac will likely be perfect. I didn't mean to call them out in particular; many telecaster templates will have a top route channel and switch cavity.

[justin byers]

I actually didn’t see your other longer reply, thanks so much for the info. I’ve got more or less a professional level shop nowadays, obviously not luthier type things, but everything else. The rear mount controls are definitely the winner here to show off all that beauty quilt, and yeah most definitely gloss and high polished lacquer, I have a Fuji hvlp I’ve gotten pretty good with, and after all the humidors I’ve gotten pretty solid at polishing. Is there a template that would work better for rear mounted controls?

[Jim Becker]

You can use the same template...you just have to remember what gets cut on the front and what gets cut on the back. (the back obviously being flipped/reversed)

[justin byers]

Would it make more sense to just use a control cavity template on the back with one of the stew Mac covers that fits it? Sorry for all the questions, I know literally nothing about guitars. Also, rather than that slider switch, can you just use a standard toggle? Or is there some purpose to the sliding switch?

[Jim Becker]

If you want to use a pre-made control cover, then you'll want to use a template that matches it. I buy blank Telecaster style control plates (no holes) from GuitarFetish and do the recess on the back to match them exactly. You also have the option of making your own template for the control recess and making it out of wood, etc. Lots of options, but there's no rule that you must create a control cavity in a particular size/shape as long as it is the correct depth for the job and has enough space for the components intended to go inside. That said, if you are going to use a pre-wired harness that's intended for a Telecaster-type installation, sticking with something similar to what it would be on the front for spacing is a darn good idea...and the reason I do what I do: same size and shape, but on the back and a blank plate. Examples: