Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 30

Thread: Flush Bolts on french doors

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Northeast PA
    Posts
    527

    Flush Bolts on french doors

    I'm building a large set of entry doors, and one door must be made inactive with flush bolts. The doors are nearly 9' tall, so the upper flush bolt will have a 24" extension rod connecting the jamb bolt to the mechanism so the lever can be reached by those of average height. I'm going to make a jig to keep the drill bit straight while i bore the very long hole into the end of the door stile.

    The jamb bolt is 1/2" in diameter. I've never installed one of these in a new door, and what I'm wondering is how large should I make the bore hole in the stile? Any reason that a 5/8" hole wouldn't work?
    Also, I'm crossing my fingers in hopes that a flush bolt will work in an arch top door setup. Pic attached below for reference.

    I'm hoping that someone here has installed these & can point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance for your help!

    95920217-7F9B-4C4F-96C2-9FF9ED62F563.jpg
    ---Trudging the Road of Happy Destiny---

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,675
    This is an example of something I personally would have wanted to build into the stile prior to assembly by gluing up the stile as a sandwich with the path for the long pin embedded. A long bore like that is going to be "fun" keeping it straight and true which it needs to be for the mechanism to operate smoothly. Have you already assembled these?
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Ouray Colorado
    Posts
    1,391
    Better to route a groove and fill it. Or cover the groove with a T astrigal.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    On the Continental Divide somewhere in Montana
    Posts
    102
    I can't help with the question, but must say - those are beautiful doors. How are you planning on "sealing" the gap between them?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Northeast PA
    Posts
    527
    Thanks Dave. There will be a stop strip applied to the inactive door to catch the active one, and spring bronze weather stripping all around.
    ---Trudging the Road of Happy Destiny---

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Northeast PA
    Posts
    527
    Yep, doors are assembled. It was an oversight on my part I suppose. I guess I was over eager to build the doors and didn't think about building in a channel in the stile.
    ---Trudging the Road of Happy Destiny---

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    9,876
    You could rout the channel now suppose. look into gun drilling. There are companies that specialize in that work.
    Bill D.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    8,973
    I've drilled similar holes, in existing doors, by making a simple, wooden guide to help aim a long spade bit, and it worked fine. 5/8's would be plenty, but I'd probably use a 9/16's, with the guide. The guide would be installed on a sheet of plywood, that the door could lay on. I wouldn't route it out. If the hole doesn't quite hit the target, a round rasp can help up in the hole without damaging the exit.

    What flush bolts are you using? It's been a Long time ago that I did this, but I think I used something from Baldwin.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    North Dana, Masachusetts
    Posts
    486
    I ran into something like this in November. The project was double doors, and the inactive door needed a wire channel drilled from the hinge to the latch, across the lock rail. The doors were already built when this was brought up. The solution was to hire a lock smith who had a $1,500. laser guided drilling tool that would guide the drill. I don't know what the work cost, but it worked.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Sterling, Virginia
    Posts
    644
    Do you have the hardware in hand? When I did one similar only the "top" 2 inches of the bolt was 1/2" diameter. I think the connecting rod was only 1/4". We routed a groove and plugged it. Look into a t-astragal instead of a flat stop.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Northeast PA
    Posts
    527
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom M King View Post
    I've drilled similar holes, in existing doors, by making a simple, wooden guide to help aim a long spade bit, and it worked fine. 5/8's would be plenty, but I'd probably use a 9/16's, with the guide. The guide would be installed on a sheet of plywood, that the door could lay on. I wouldn't route it out. If the hole doesn't quite hit the target, a round rasp can help up in the hole without damaging the exit.

    What flush bolts are you using? It's been a Long time ago that I did this, but I think I used something from Baldwin.
    Thank you Tom. Believe me I have no intention on routing a channel. I'm perfectly comfortable making jigs & fixtures and have a design in mind that would use a couple 2" long flanged drill bushings to guide a long auger bit. I plan on making the jig adjustable so the space between the two bushings can be changed, limiting the depth that can be drilled before the chuck bottoms out and the jig needs to be adjusted again. I'm thinking that should keep the bit from wandering.

    My question was really to judge what size hole to drill so I can order the correct drill bushings. The flush bolts I'm using are made by a company called Deltana. I'll go with the 9/16" hole that you suggested; I was waffling between that and a 5/8.
    ---Trudging the Road of Happy Destiny---

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,645
    No offense, but you would do well to heed Joe C's advise. It's a simple solution and won't show when done. If you try drilling the hole and something goes wrong there is no easy remedy.

    John

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Edmonton, Canada
    Posts
    2,479
    Long flush bolts I've seen don't have 1/2" or 5/8" all the way. As suggested only a top section is that thick and the rest is most likely only 1/4" or so.
    Drilling that long and straight in end-grain is extremely difficult. I suggest you try that on scrap before on the actual door. Very high chance of not getting the hole straight and where you want it.
    I'd probably make a groove cut in the edge and then fill it.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Ouray Colorado
    Posts
    1,391
    This is what a 12” Baldwin looks like, 24” similar just longer
    8C51580A-A420-44BA-90A8-804DC689D4D7.jpg
    T astrigal covering the groove is the most elegant way. We usually drill the end hole then the groove doesn’t have to be very wide. Matched grain fill if not using a astrigal.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    8,973
    I just made the guide blocks, for the drill shank, out of wood. Bolts looked just like the one in Joe's picture. The door I drilled them into was Mahogany. Last I heard, still working after 40 years, or so. I did use a T-Astragal on those doors, but was planning to anyway.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •