New jointer - Snipe problems?

[Nick Mazzino]

Hello,

I recently just received my new G0858 jointer from Grizzly a few weeks ago. This is the 8" helical head with parallelogram.

It works great and I am very happy with the jointer.
However when both face and edge jointing wood, I am getting a significant amount of snipe (if you would call it that). See attached pictures.
This is happening on the trailing end of the wood. When it gets to the last 1-2" I can both feel and hear the jointer taking more material away causing my shown problem.

I assumed it was probably my technique. Maybe putting to much pressure on the tail end of the piece of wood. So I limited that and even only put my two push blocks on the front 50% of the board. Still having the same issue. I tried both face and edge jointing wood for over an hour trying different techniques and different areas of pressure.

Any ideas?

I did not have this issue with my previous 6" straight edge jointer.

Thanks for the help!

[Marc Fenneuff]

This is typically caused by the outfeed table being a touch too low

[Mel Fulks]

You outfeed table is too low, needs to come up at least 2or 3 thou. What you have now is often the standard position;
because it makes many happy. With a table just a couple thou too high the material "climbs"....cuts more at start than
finish. Does your machine have a wheel adjustment for outfeed ,or a stick adjuster?

[Kevin Jenness]

Raise the outfeed table until it is level with the knife circle then test with a pair of 1x4's as long as the outfeed and make minute adjustments until they match up perfectly. A dial indicator is useful here.

[Nick Mazzino]

Thanks for the quick responses!

My outfeed table is all the way up. So, I guess I will have to lower my infeed table.
I have the stick adjuster, no wheel.

[Mel Fulks]

Typically there is a bolt serving as a stop. Turn the bolt in just a little and make test cuts

[Mel Fulks]

I neglected to add raise stick to make new position hit the stop.

[Nick Mazzino]

Thanks for the advice! Much appreciated. I will try this tomorrow.

[Kevin Jenness]

No, the infeed table will not fix the problem. The knife circle and outfeed table have to be even. Make sure that you really are at the outfeed table adjustment limit. If you are, you will have to futz with the parallelogram adjustment to get the outfeed table higher and then check that the tables are coplanar with a reasonably long, accurate straightedge. This is a painstaking process and should have been done at the factory. A call to tech service would be a good idea.

[Bill Dufour]

You may have to shim the bearings up a little. Either official shim stock or a sheet or two of aluminum foil. How is the infeed adjuster. Is it near it's limit when taking nothing off or can it still go up a fraction. Like 0.002. -0.003"
Bil lD.

The majority of foil rolls labeled as "Standard Duty" are between . 0004 thick and . 0007 thick. Which at best is slightly over or one half of a mil in thickness.

[Mel Fulks]

Agree it should have been done at factory. But I know from employments that too low is the preferred position for many.
Glue joints open at ends ..they don't care. S4S small orders not parallel ....that's a phone call to the boss. Many times
after adjusting a jointer perfectly ...somebody would report to boss "Mel messed up the jointer"

[Ed Edwards]

Nick jointer dilemma

If you raise the arbor bearings you will only exacerbate the condition. The cutter head has to go down or the outfeed table needs to go up. The reason for the snipe is that after the wood passes past the infeed table, it is only supported by the out feed table. This allows the wood to drop deeper into the knives and cut deeper, thus the snipe.
You maybe able to see the upstop, or stops and if possible file a couple of thou off. Or, as mentioned earlier you might need to raise the outfeed table and still maintain it being coplanar.
You can also check out the web for some visual guidance. One view is setting up a General, and of course Mark Spagnola sp? goes over his Powermatic jointer.

In any case it will be a good learning experience, however if you opted for the spiral cutterhead you'll only have to set it up once.
Ed

[Bobby Robbinett]

For getting it dialed in you will need a 50” precision straight edge, a dial indicator with magnetic base and some feeler gauges. I would start all over and tune the machine accurately. You first want to make your outfeed parallel to the body of the cutterhead (not the knives at this point). Check at all 4 corners of the outfeed with your precision straight edge and feeler gauges. Then you want to raise your infeed side and make it parallel to your outfeed side at all four corners. Checking with a precision straight edge and feeler gauges. Watch the Wood Whisperer video on setting up a jointer on YouTube. Once you get the infeed parallel to the outfeed you can lower it down and set your knives using the dial indicator and magnetic base. The knives need to a thousandths or so above the outfeed and then you are set. Do not even consider shimming your bearings because you have a ton of adjustment in your knives

[Kevin Jenness]

Bobby, the knives are not adjustable on this helical head. Otherwise you are right on, assuming the outfeed table can't be raised in its present configuration. More likely it is a matter of getting after the heightadjusting stop. Adjusting the parallelogram setup is the last thing to try, as it requires precision tools and considerable patience to get it right. Get the outfeed table height correct and then if the machine produces flat, straight surfaces leave it alone.

[Paul Tubergen]

There is a pretty good description in Grizzly’s manual on line.