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Thread: Guard style for minimax FS 30c

  1. #1
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    Guard style for minimax FS 30c

    So I purchased a minimax FS 30c a year or two ago. When I purchased it, my original thinking was to equip it with the euro style guard. The rep pointed out that the euro style guard doesn't meet US regs and strongly recommended I go with the US style porkchop guard. I agreed and purchased the US style guard. However, fast forward a year or two and I'm really not happy with the US style guard. When face jointing wide boards, the guard slams against the fence after the board passes through with significant force. It isn't such a big deal on a narrow jointer, but with the wide jointer of the FS 30, it is a much bigger deal. I find myself reaching to keep the two from slamming together, and then realizing that it isn't such a good idea to reach toward the cutter head.

    In any event, I'm now reconsidering my choice and wondering if I should spring for the euro style guard and replace my current guard. I'm looking for folks that have experience with both styles and which you like/use and why.

  2. #2
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    The only style of guard I have used and actually like is the segmented style of pork chop that Martin puts on their American market machines. It’s great, and does not get in the way.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  3. #3
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    I've used both styles and prefer the porkchop on my FS-30. But I'm in the minority and many are going to tell you the Euro is superior. I'm not sure why the guard banging into the fence bothers you, that's what it's supposed to do, but since it does why not just put a piece of self stick foam weather stripping along the edge of the guard. The advantage of the porkchop guard is that you don't ever have to adjust it; it just works. The Euro guard requires adjustment for how high it sits and how far it extends over the table for every board of different width/thickness. I also don't like that the blade is exposed before the board covers it, whether edge or face jointing. Further, you have to reach over the guard when face jointing. With the porkchop guard the only time the blades are exposed is after the workpiece exists the cutterhead, before the guard closes. But if your hands are where they are supposed to be there's no danger.

    John

  4. #4
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    I have the pork chop version on mine and never noticed it hitting the fence with unusual force or noise. John’s weatherstripping seems a good solution though. I like that the pork chop guard doesn’t need constant adjustments but do find it can get in the way putting the fence back on.

  5. #5
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    My old delta jointer had a porkchop guard. I didn't like the loud clang when it hit the fence, so I put some thick double-sided tape as a bumper on the guard and also adjusted the tension of the return spring so it wouldn't strike as hard. It was usable this way.

    Now I have an A3-31 with euro guard. It is nice for never really leaving the cutter head exposed like with the porkchop, but it is requiring some adjustments that I'm gradually getting used to:

    The euro guard needs to be pulled out when edge jointing. I'm accustomed to moving with the wood when jointing, so this is an extra obstacle. It also means that I'm more likely to do all my edge jointing towards the back of the jointer.

    With the porkchop guard, I'm used to being able to manage the pressure on the leading edge as it reaches the outfeed table. With the euro guard, this isn't quite as easy, as the wood goes under the guard and your pad/hand need to come off just as the board is approaching the cutterhead and until it is well onto the outfeed table. This feels like it is a bit more difficult to maintain consistent pressure and might be really annoying if trying to remove twist. Although hasn't affected the first few projects through the jointer.

    Matt

  6. #6
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    I prefer the euro guards. Cutterhead is covered the entire time ,and it is way easier to figure out where the danger zone is. Took me all of about 1/2 an hour to adjust to using one,I would never go back to a pork chop guard. When face jointing I put my front hand about 6"-8" back from the end of the board. When my hand gets to the guard I lift my fingers and slide over back on to the wood. My thumb says on the backside till my fingers contact wood to maintain feed pressure.

  7. #7
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    I put the bridge guard on my FS-350 and haven't looked back. I really don't like the pork-chops at all, especially since I primarily use the jointer for face jointing/flattening and rarely for edges. The big, plastic pork chops also tend to break...I went through two of them before making the move to the bridge guard.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #8
    some one needs to invent something better in actual use both types have annoying aspects to working the material and disrupt the natural flow over the knives. ILl go hide now.

  9. #9
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    Interestingly, Warren, I find it very natural for my left hand to float over the bridge guard and it's very natural for pulling the workpiece back over it to set up for another pass. But maybe that's just me...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Lake View Post
    some one needs to invent something better in actual use both types have annoying aspects to working the material and disrupt the natural flow over the knives. ILl go hide now.
    It's been invented. See Brian's comment above relative to the segmented porkchop guard. They look similar to a pork chop guard:



    But instead of sticking out in space when you push the workpiece through the cutterhead, they cascade down over the side of the machine. Very clever, and almost mandatory on a 16" wide jointer like this 1600 lb beast.

    John

  11. #11
    segmented better as its not in the way of your body, zero protection at the end of the board as its held away and the knives are exposed.


    here is a guard, he has no control of the material. Id rather have no guard and a proper push stick though its not a stick what I would use.

    Capture.JPG




    Im not sure what you would call this but its useless as set up.


    Capturehhh.JPG
    Last edited by Warren Lake; 01-02-2021 at 7:28 PM.

  12. #12
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    I have to admit it scared the heck out of me when I first started using it, looking down at 14" of spinning bodily parts chewing steel, but once I realized there was no danger as long as my hands stayed on the board I became a convert of the porkchop guard over the Euro guard which I had used for over 25 years on my previous J/P. No guard is perfect and all have their advantages and disadvantages. Pick the one you think best fits the way you work and learn to use it - always.


    John

  13. #13
    yeah agree no perfect guard.

    jointing really long boards the gaurd was useless and more so was in the way, I could not drop on. You have the option to pull the fence towards you so at that point the porkchop does zero compared to not having it, at the end of the board your knives are exposed either way. Only thing pulling the fence close is you would wear your knives more always using that area. It also depends how you joint.

    I respect the damage it can do, what does annoy me is the wood not gliding nice. When its right the wood is like a hovercraft and no friction over the tables. I ran out of auto paste wax then used some synthetic that worked horrible then liquid carnuba that was pretty good, then PFTE WD stuff and it leaves a residue then went back to parrafin and some swipes of that. Still not having the hovercraft experience and for me its most dangerous when stuff glides then sort of loads up like its got suction to the table right as you are going. Im next going to try one of my auto buffers on it. The car paste wax I had worked well and never caused finishing issues at least that brand.

  14. #14
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    Thanks Everyone. I'm not sure where I would find a segmented pork chop that fit the FS 30c, but I'll look around.

    @Warren: I agree that one safety tip is to make sure that everything glides nicely. I use a huge candle I keep around the shop for my planes. a few swipes now and again keeps the boards sliding nicely.

  15. #15
    Jeff, have you tried adjusting the spring pressure on your guard? It should be simple to do if yours has a housed coil spring at the pivot, just loosen the holding screw and adjust the preload.

    I have used all the guards mentioned and like the tambour porkchop style best. I am lazy and haven't gotten around to making one, but it would not be hard to do. The one I used on a Unitronix like John shows was made with wooden segments backed with leather.

    At my old gig we had a Laguna 16" with a Euro bridge guard. I had no problem with getting used to it and passing my hands over it when flattening. That guard was on a floating arm and I found it easy to press it down on the stock when running short pieces. Dropping on was no more difficult for me than with a porkchop guard. I found however that some of the crew would pull the guard back sideways for flattening which amounted to having no guard at all. They seemed to be the same people that would push the overhead guard on the tablesaw out of the way. The porkchop would have been safer overall in that situation because it could not be bypassed. Safety features are useless if ignored.

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