how would you fix/hide this

[Brian Runau]

Festool stub tenons

[Brian Runau]

Titebond III, think I'm stuck there. Thanks brian

[John TenEyck]

If it really bothers you cut it out and replace it with a new piece. This is not a hard repair. Butt glue in the new piece. After the glue is dry cut a couple of 1/4" wide dados across the top of the joint with a handheld plunge router and edge guide, then glue in loose tenons. Plane flush and done.

John

[Warren Lake]

what Johnny said

[Phil Mueller]

After reading through all the suggestions (even mine), I’m liking John TenEyck’s fix.

[Brian Runau]

If it really bothers you cut it out and replace it with a new piece. This is not a hard repair. Butt glue in the new piece. After the glue is dry cut a couple of 1/4" wide dados across the top of the joint with a handheld plunge router and edge guide, then glue in loose tenons. Plane flush and done.

John

John, I have Japanese hand saws, but think it would be difficult to stay 90 degrees through the cut. I think using a circular saw might be best? thanks Brian

[Lee Schierer]

John, I have Japanese hand saws, but think it would be difficult to stay 90 degrees through the cut. I think using a circular saw might be best? thanks Brian

A flush cutting hand saw would make the cut quickly and easily.
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[Phil Mueller]

Agree with Lee. Use your pull saw to flush cut the piece off. You could always cut it off fat and then pare, plane, file the post surface back to flat/square. You could also use a square piece of stock and clamp it to the rail as a guide for the pull saw.

Point is, you’re going to be making a new rail, so you can cut it anywhere. It’s just a matter of how much paring, etc., you’ll need to do to clean up the post. I’d probably shoot for 1/16-1/8 away from the post and finish up with a block plane.

Better to have some left to clean up, then risk sawing into the post.

[John TenEyck]

John, I have Japanese hand saws, but think it would be difficult to stay 90 degrees through the cut. I think using a circular saw might be best? thanks Brian

I would cut out several inches in the middle leaving two long stubs. Then take your heat gun and heat the joint, w/o burning it of course. When the glue softens you should be able to rock it up and down and then pull it out. If that is unsuccessful, then I'd cut it nearly flush and then hand plane/sand it flush.

John

[andy bessette]

Can you not cut it off and replace the entire piece?

This is the simplest way to correct the problem

[Brian Runau]

[QUOTE=Phil Mueller;3084824]Agree with Lee. Use your pull saw to flush cut the piece off. You could always cut it off fat and then pare, plane, file the post surface back to flat/square. You could also use a square piece of stock and clamp it to the rail as a guide for the pull saw.

Point is, you’re going to be making a new rail, so you can cut it anywhere. It’s just a matter of how much paring, etc., you’ll need to do to clean up the post. I’d probably shoot for 1/16-1/8 away from the post and finish up with a block plane.

Phil, why replace the whole rail? Blade of a Japanese saw is so thin why not cut it and glue it up or piece it on that end? With stain and finish and the overhang of the top it would never be noticed. I am not in the trade selling my stuff, just for my personal use. thanks brian

[Phil Mueller]

You certainly could use the existing rail, but even the kerf from two pull saw cuts will bring the top tighter than the bottom. I’m thinking it would just add complexity to the inset drawer fronts. If you’re confident in a perfect flush cut to the post, I agree it’s not a lot, but a perfect flush cut is challenging. And fitting the drawers would just add more time and effort than just replacing the rail. Your thought of using a circular saw would have likely removed 1/4” of length from two cuts...so I just assumed you were replacing the rail.

Adding a piece to increase length is often done in restoration work, and is a viable option. If I had extra stock available, though, I would just make a new piece and save the effort to disguise the joint. While I also think first of fixing, often the best solution in the end is replacing...it’s usually less work in the end and a much better result.

[Brian Runau]

You certainly could use the existing rail, but even the kerf from two pull saw cuts will bring the top tighter than the bottom. I’m thinking it would just add complexity to the inset drawer fronts. If you’re confident in a perfect flush cut to the post, I agree it’s not a lot, but a perfect flush cut is challenging. And fitting the drawers would just add more time and effort than just replacing the rail. Your thought of using a circular saw would have likely removed 1/4” of length from two cuts...so I just assumed you were replacing the rail.

Adding a piece to increase length is often done in restoration work, and is a viable option. If I had extra stock available, though, I would just make a new piece and save the effort to disguise the joint. While I also think first of fixing, often the best solution in the end is replacing...it’s usually less work in the end and a much better result.

Thanks. Brian

[Alan Kalker]

Cut the section out and dovetail a new piece in if you can. Even if the dovetail isn’t precise, if it is snug, the joint will be secure and covered by the top. I’d start by leaving the front edge a tiny (1/32) bit proud and then planing it flush. If you’ve not done this before, make sure you have VERY sharp chisels, watch some technique videos and practice on scrap wood.

[Brian Runau]

I want to thank everyone for their kind and positive suggestions. As in life we are all in a different spot on the path, I am improving my woodworking skill set every day as I hope I am becoming a better person every day. Those who made less than kind comments, ... Brian