Does decent Shop Vac dust collection still need to be so expensive?

[Clifford McGuire]

So you have probably learned by now that the answer is no. The additional cost comes when you are meeting any specific needs you may have. If you are in a fixed environment like I am I do not need mobility, lower noise levels or the ability to keep 99% of the dust off Mrs. Smith's china hutch in the next room.

I think those that have answered might be able to help more by zeroing in on what works and doesn't work given your requirements. Could you give us more info about your situation, needs, problems with your current setup, etc?

Yes, I've learned a lot so far.....thanks everyone. My current setup is a 20 year old Ridgid (no bag, just filter) with a hose that sort of connects to my RO sanders and biscuit joiner. I also use the vac to vacuum the floor. For my table saw, router table, and bandsaw I use a portable Penn State dust collector. I move it from tool to tool. I currently don't have DC at my jointer or drill press.

My shop is currently in a dedicated exterior building. I wear a mask, and am not too concerned about dust buildup. I give the shop a good cleaning after every project. But we are moving soon. My new shop will be in the basement. I'm rethinking everything, including dust collection. I'm also looking at replacing the Penn State with a stationary unit and ductwork. The shop will be in a drywalled 25ft by 19ft room with a 9.5ft ceiling

So far I've learned that I will want a cyclone separator. I will use the unit for floor cleanup, and don't want to replace a bag that often. I've seen enough youtube vids to build a unit that will house the cyclone above the vac. I'll very likely get the Onieda DD.

I haven't seen anything that would sway me to spend the extra $400 (Makita) or $600 (Festool) on the vac. The Ridgid has a HEPA filter/bag now, and the noise levels don't seem much different.

Thanks for all the replies so far. Anything else I can add to help with the discussion?

[Clifford McGuire]

This guy, Chris Notap, I had never heard of him before. Beware, the current buckets I can find in town and the buckets he used in the video do not match and it does matter.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WnitgYFnE0

Very interesting...Thanks Scott. Chris Notap is quite the character. It was fun to watch that video, and a bunch of his other ones.

Have you checked out the Kracher WD4 or WD5? I enjoy mine and the noise level is very acceptable. And the cost saving is considerable.

I had not checked out Kracher. Very interesting. It seems you get a lot of vacuum for the money. I really like the access to the dust filter. With the Ridgid, I create a cloud of dust just taking out the filter.

[Justin Rapp]

I'm looking to improve my dust collection for my ROS, biscuit joiner, miter saw, etc. I'll retire my 20 year old Ridgid and get a good quality shop vac and cyclone separator.

I know I don't have to spend over $1000 for a Festool vac/separator to achieve very good results. But I was thinking I'd have to budget $600 for a Makita/Bosch vac and Onieda Dust Deputy kit.

But now I see that Ridgid has a 12 gallon w/HEPA filtration kit for $126. Pair that with a $99 Onieda Dust Deputy, build a cart with some scraps, and I've solved the problem for $250.

What am I missing?

Is there something wrong with your current Ridgid vac? Mine is about 18 years old and I put a hepa filter in it that I picked up at home depot for about $30. Search for 100022800 on home depot's web site. At this point, my vac is just to vacuum the shop, but having the hepa still a good idea for any of that fine dust that lands on surfaces.

If your vac is too small, for $125, grab their 16 gal 6.5 hp model and the $30 hepa filter instead of the 12 gallon you mention. It will cost you $30 more to add the hepa filter but your getting more power.

[Clifford McGuire]

Is there something wrong with your current Ridgid vac? Mine is about 18 years old and I put a hepa filter in it that I picked up at home depot for about $30. Search for 100022800 on home depot's web site. At this point, my vac is just to vacuum the shop, but having the hepa still a good idea for any of that fine dust that lands on surfaces.

Actually, no. I didn't think I could retrofit it to be hepa compliant. But there is nothing wrong with it.

This thread is saving me money left and right! I'm bringing you guys along the next time I go car shopping!

[Mike Kees]

I bought my Cleanstream filters at the Hoe Depot. They definitely work far better than any other shop vac filter I have used .Really like the ability to clean and reuse them.

[Curt Harms]

A little secret about variable speed shop vacs. You can make your own with an external router speed control. I've tried it for a couple minutes, it works. My concern is that vac motors are cooled by the air flowing through them and are designed to operate at full speed. I'm not sure there would be adequate airflow so adequate cooling when operating at reduced speeds. I know this can be an issue with induction motors controlled by VFDs. Shop vac motors are universal motors AFAIK - like routers - so heat may not be an issue.

[Jim Becker]

A little secret about variable speed shop vacs. You can make your own with an external router speed control. I've tried it for a couple minutes, it works. My concern is that vac motors are cooled by the air flowing through them and are designed to operate at full speed. I'm not sure there would be adequate airflow so adequate cooling when operating at reduced speeds. I know this can be an issue with induction motors controlled by VFDs. Shop vac motors are universal motors AFAIK - like routers - so heat may not be an issue.

You identified the primary concern with using a speed control on the universal motor/blower in many shop vacs. Many do use the air flow for cooling. An alternative is a bleeder on the hose. It's not as elegant, but it can work. They are even available as accessories if you look closely at many suppliers.

[Bill Dufour]

FYI and not mentioned is that Shop Vac brand has declared bankruptcy so I guess their prices were not high enough.
Bil lD.

[Doug Dawson]

You identified the primary concern with using a speed control on the universal motor/blower in many shop vacs. Many do use the air flow for cooling. An alternative is a bleeder on the hose. It's not as elegant, but it can work. They are even available as accessories if you look closely at many suppliers.

The hose-end bleeder is IMO the easiest and right way to do it, if the vac doesn’t have a control for that.

[Frank Pratt]

If you use a cyclone with the shop vac, a bleeder is a better solution. Maintaining air velocity improves separation.

[Dave Sabo]

Actually, no. I didn't think I could retrofit it to be hepa compliant. But there is nothing wrong with it.

did you realize there are very few HEPA certified vacuum on the market ? A HEPA filter doesn’t make a vacuum HEPA certified.

Even if you buy a HEPA cert. vacuum , the second you add a separator, cyclone, ect..... it is no longer HEPA certified.

Too many people get caught up in HEPA. If you’re an abatement contractor, or painter working with lead, HEPA is a necessity. The general woodworker isn’t likely to notice any difference in a vacuum fitted with a HEPA filter vs. a regular pleated one.

[George Gibson]

If you want to stick to a shop vac than I also agree with the others, no need to spend a fortune behind shop vacs again, I think slight modification of your current vacuum cleaner is enough. Btw, in any case you want to go outside of the box and want go for a traditional vacuum cleaner which'd do both your home and other places, I think you can miele a shot. Miele C3 is the best among them all but it'd go beyond a thousand dollar. You can still check Miele C1 which is in your budget.

[Doug Dawson]

did you realize there are very few HEPA certified vacuum on the market ? A HEPA filter doesn’t make a vacuum HEPA certified.

Even if you buy a HEPA cert. vacuum , the second you add a separator, cyclone, ect..... it is no longer HEPA certified.

Too many people get caught up in HEPA. If you’re an abatement contractor, or painter working with lead, HEPA is a necessity. The general woodworker isn’t likely to notice any difference in a vacuum fitted with a HEPA filter vs. a regular pleated one.

Here we run headlong into the concept of what is _actionable_. Do you really believe that using a portable cyclone will negate the effectiveness of your dust control?

Do you even _use_ any sort of dust monitoring? It’s not about specs, it’s ultimately about what’s real.

[Frank Pratt]

The general woodworker isn’t likely to notice any difference in a vacuum fitted with a HEPA filter vs. a regular pleated one.

You really have no clue. There's a huge difference between noticing if there's dust in the air & actually having the air full of sub micron dust that isn't noticeable.

[Randy Heinemann]

Rather than invest in a hepa filter, why not just use a bag in the vac. It will capture the dust and save your filter, couple this with a cyclone you should be golden. Just like in fishing there are lures for fish and lures for fishermen. Too many people want a new fancy tool, but would get by with something far less expensive. I bought some tools from a guy that had a show room for woodcraft all new and shiny, $1000s of dollars of equipment, he was building plywood deer..

Inserting a bag in a vac won't filter the air returning into the shop the same as a HEPA filter will. HEPA filters trap smaller particles than the bag would (unless you've found a HEPA bag). The smallest particles are the ones that are the most harmful to your lungs. So, if you're working outside, no problem, but inside the shop, your lungs deserve the best filters available.